INTREPID II

[jetmech]

Hey everyone, arrived home yesterday with my new to me intrepid ii, looks to be in great shape. The serial number is 2814 and has a date cast inside firebox of 1987. Im guessing its a model # 1303. The cat is removed from the rear if that helps. Gonna remove it today for a looksee. all gaskets seem to be in good shape. Will try the dollar bill test also. Will keep you updated

 

[jetmech]

One more thing......I measured the doublewall exterior pipe that came with the stove and it measures 7 inches id... the outlet of the stove and interior flue size is 6 inches id... is this ok or a problem. not sure. Marty

 

[elmoleaf]

If you want to confirm the model, check Intrepid listings here: http://www.discountstove.com/partsvcwbfreestanding.htm
The expanded parts diagrams are also helpful in figuring out how to break down and put the stove back together.
On the 1303, the silver label on back has a emissions test chart...somewhere in there, in small print, you'll find the model number #1303.

Be sure to remove the back plate to check the cat probe and secondary air damper condition. They're important to the cat. operating properly.
Did you get a bottom heat shield? It's required for radiant heat protection in almost all installations, unless you're using on stove on conc. slab on grade etc. The manual does not specify k or R values for the floor protector however, only that it's noncombustible like 24 gauge steel or 1/4 mineral board.
Also check the seams between stove top/bottom and sides very carefully. The furnace cement can crack and fall out, especially when the stove is moved. Be sure to pull out the bottom grate, fireback etc. to thoroughly inspect all seams. Also check the glass in the doors....over time the retaining clips can become too loose and allow the glass gaskets to fall out of position and leak lots of air into the stove.

The stove should only be used with 6" pipe. Insulated pipe will have a larger outside diamater, but the inside dimension should match up with the stove.

 

[jetmech]

Thanks elmoleaf for the info... It is indeed a 1303, also get this when i removed the cat and looked in the refractory channel at the bottom of both sides its full of acorn shells.... Guess i will have to remove them. everything looks good on the stove. there are some pieces of squeezed out cement that have come off inside the stove from the rear panel. How do i know if all panels are secure. to be honest this stove dosent look like its seen a lot of use. I am going to remove the panel inside the lower front where the smoke goes with cat engaged to remove the shells. Keep lurking i might be looking for more help.....

 

[elmoleaf]

Good luck.
I bought the same model used and had to completely rebuild it. It was no longer airtight at many of the seams.
Try shining a bright flashlight at the seams from inside or if you have an air compressor, blast some air from inside at the seams and feel along the outside with your hand. I discovered my leaks when I was removing the floor grate, doors etc. from the stove out in the yard. I decided to use the garden hose to wash out all the soot so I could clearly check all the castings for otherwise hidden cracks etc. That was when I found that water would squirt through between the side plates and top casting.
Cleaning out the acorns: Just remember to unscrew and remove the cat probe at the secondary air door if you need to remove the white cat. chamber. Also, it's very fragile and will break apart if you try to force it in any way.

 

[jetmech]

Tried the flashlight tonite and only place i saw light was at lower r/h back side of firebox when shining light through primary air inlet.. this could be normal not sure... i would love to look at a new one for comparison. I do appreciate your help. How long will yours hold a fire???

 

[elmoleaf]

I posted elsewhere before about the back right corner of the firebox. You should NOT be able to shine a light from inside there out through the primary air damper. If so, air is entering directly into the firebox and entirely bypassing those air tubes that run around the ashpan sides and up the insides of the front doors. You want air to follow those tubes so it enters the firebox from the front of the stove and washes over the front glass to keep it clean.

Check next to the vertical tie rod at that corner. If you see daylight out through there, clean off the ash/soot, dampen the area and seal the hole around the tie rod with refractory cement.

With a good bed of coals and freshly loaded big heavy chunks of hardwood, I've still had embers the next morning hot enough to restart from (about six hours). Typically though, I'll reload about 10 pm at night with average maple and be out and cold at 6am the next day. I'm only trying to supplement my oil heat, so I don't get up to reload all night. The stove isn't big enough to be full time full house heat.