Is This Stove to big or just right for my house?

[Goatguy]

Hi all! After reading tons and tons of stuff, both here and other sources. I have come to the conclusion that I want a wood burning insert for my fireplace. The trouble is... I am not sure if I am getting the right one or not... I know there are a ton of "Which stove should I buy?" threads... but I have a few honost questions that I couldn't find the answers to anywhere else.

First off... Housing specs!

I live in Mid-Michigan, so I have wintery weather from November to March'ish. Typical Lows being 10-20 during Jan and Feb, with the occasional night going below 0.

-I have a 1250sqft 1 1/2 story house built in 1924. It has no insulation in the walls, but is insulated in the attic spaces.
-The room that the fireplace is in is 12.5x16, However it is connected to another room (11x13) with a large ~7ft opening
-9 foot ceilings
-Plaster and Lathe walls (not sure if that matters)
-Ceiling fan in Dining room, Kitchen, and Bedroom.
-2 other bedrooms upstairs (from the hallway by bathroom)

I have included a quickly/crudely drawn diagram to help.

I have 2 basic concerns....
- I want an insert that is large enough to heat most of the house
- I spend a lot of time in the living room, so I do NOT want an insert that is so big, I'll be cooked out of that space

So far I am trying to decide between the Pacific Energy Super, and the Pacific Energy Vista.

Thanks for your help and insight, I appreciate it!

 

[branchburner]

Not sure about the stoves, but two suggestions: insulate the chimney liner (and install blockoff plate) for whatever insert you get, and insulate those walls (I know you know that, but I had to say it anyway).

 

[begreen]

Welcome and thanks for posting the floorplan. That really helps.

+1 on the wall insulation. It's money in the bank.

I'd get the larger, 2 cu ft insert. The mid range PE's can burn well with a half load of wood for the milder weather.

The main issue is going to be heat circulation. Unfortunately, the floor plan leaves the kitchen isolated with the short end of the stick. Small doorways also will keep the heat primarily in the living room/dining room sector unless assisted with fans.

 

[Todd]

Blaze King Princess, maybe you won't need insulated walls.

 

[soupy1957]

If it was ME.............I'd do THIS: (Note the white Square in the center, as the location where I would put a stand-alone wood stove).......

 

[vvvv]

prevailing N winter winds result in N-S airflow thru the house, especially if drafty

 

[KB007]

My neighbour has a Vista and he curses it regularly as being way too small. Go big - period - can always use less wood in a bigger box.

 

[Goatguy]

Yeah, that is the way I am starting to lean as well. Go with the bigger one, enjoy the ability to heat hard and fast, have longer burn times, and build smaller fires if needed.

With that in mind, I was thinking that the Pacific Energy Super would be a good stove, I have seen very few "bad" reviews about it. I wish it were a little cheaper however...

Thanks again for all yoru help and insight!

 

[iceman]

Insulate the house first, you will cook yourself out no matter you do because if you don't the other parts of the house will be freezing.......
The money you spend on insulation will show very quickly n.... I can't say it enough insulate........ you may be able to use smaller stove with insulation if not you by bigger to try and compensate, so either way more money is spent..... insulate those walls .... the house will retain more heat and you burn less wood..... you don't insulate, you buy bigger stove, run it hotter and use more wood to struggle to keep a house at a good temp... maybe in you case you can get by with a bigger stove because the sq footage is a super large # but you should def try and outside air kit as that may prevent the stove from pulling a lot of air through the uninsulated walls .....
As far as the stove goes , your options are good choices, if you choose to leave the walls uninsulated get the biggest you can afford

 

[Goatguy]

I completely agree with insulating the walls, however I do not have the finances for it currently. Though it might definitely be in line for next year.

 

[Slow1]

I completely agree with insulating the walls, however I do not have the finances for it currently. Though it might definitely be in line for next year.

Have you researched what rebates and programs may be available in your area? Check out the DSIRE site: http://www.dsireusa.org/incentives/index.cfm?re=1&ee=1&spv=0&st=0&srp=1&state=MI

Plus keep in mind that the same rebate program that we all tout for the $1500 credit for stoves applies for insulation/home efficiency so that can go a long way toward insulating. If you insulate uninsulated walls you will get a much faster return on your investment than just about any other thing you invest in.

 

[iceman]

I completely agree with insulating the walls, however I do not have the finances for it currently. Though it might definitely be in line for next year.

I completey understand, however, if you have 2-3000 do as much as you with thosestove off. walls ... buy a stove off cl or even wait till next yr... if u still have to buy wood for this year more than likely it won't burn right this year anyways so its more wasted money.. much of this you may be able to do yourself....
But I would def get prices on the walls
Also do u heat with oil? Gas etc

 

[Goatguy]

I currently heat with Natural gas. However, I just bought the house in July and haven't "wintered" in it yet, or even turned the furnace on for that matter (at least, no more than just to make sure it worked before buying the house). Also, I do have a good amount of seasoned wood (oak and maple) on hand, so buying wet wood wouldn't be a problem, at least this year.

 

[joefrompa]

I'm goign to dis-agree with a few others here, but only if you are dead set on getting a wood stove.

Assuming the stove is a given and you have limited finances, I'd say don't insulate this winter.

Get the stove, AIR-SEAL the house, and then get a few fans to circulate the hot air to where you want it.

Air-flow into the house is the biggest loss of energy, and you can usually seal up your house pretty well for about $20 (2 tubes of caulk and some weatherstripping). Get 1-2 box fans ($20-40) and your wood stove, and your house will be totally liveable even without the insulation IMHO.

But, if I'm wrong, then insulate the walls next year and you'll be in even better shape.

The last thing I'll add is this: If you air-seal the house and, with the fire cranked and some fans blowing you still aren't happy, then try to drape some cheap thick comforters over the windows in the rooms you want warmer. Or, if you are going to decorate and have a bit of coin, buy insulated curtains. They make a huge difference.

I'm not saying insulating the walls isn't desirable, simply that there is cost-benefit to each of these things and I understand being on a budget.

 

[firefighterjake]

When I first started looking and researching stoves one of the best bits of advice I received here was to make sure the house was decently insulated . . . I was fortunate as most of the house was OK . . . but I did spend the time and money to insulate my knee walls . . . and it seemed as though this has been money well spent . . . regardless of what I use to heat the house . . . since the heat I generate stays in the house instead of warming up the great outdoors.

 

[begreen]

I currently heat with Natural gas. However, I just bought the house in July and haven't "wintered" in it yet, or even turned the furnace on for that matter (at least, no more than just to make sure it worked before buying the house). Also, I do have a good amount of seasoned wood (oak and maple) on hand, so buying wet wood wouldn't be a problem, at least this year.

Contact your natural gas company and see if you can get consumption records for previous years. That will be a guide line of the amount of heat it takes to currently heat the house. And you will have a better sense of your future heating bill. Also, check the furnace label and see what it's size is listed at in btus output (there will be 2 figures, the higher will be the input btus.)

 

[vvvv]

I currently heat with Natural gas. However, I just bought the house in July and haven't "wintered" in it yet, or even turned the furnace on for that matter (at least, no more than just to make sure it worked before buying the house). Also, I do have a good amount of seasoned wood (oak and maple) on hand, so buying wet wood wouldn't be a problem, at least this year.

cant beat absorbing the heat radiating from a woodstove

 

[Archer39]

for what is is worth, my house is very similar to yours as far as floor plan, size ceiling height, and insulation and i can not heat it to 70 when really cold (0 and below) in the stove room.

 

[fredarm]

I have the Vista insert because nothing bigger would fit in my fireplace. It's a great little stove, easy to use, and throws a good amount of heat. I have a 1900 sf house built in 1996, so it is insulated. We have an open L-shaped living/dining/kitchen that's a little bigger than your living/dining/kitchen area. The Vista heats it pretty well, with some heat finding its way into the office in the far corner of the house and also upstairs. However, it would be impossible to completely heat the house with the Vista 24/7. As it is, when it's cold out I have to reload the stove every 3 or 4 hours, so I tend to just burn evenings and weekends. I'd get the Super insert if it will fit in your fireplace. When it's warmer out, you can run the insert with a smaller fire and/or without the fan and it won't throw so much heat.

 

[begreen]

for what is is worth, my house is very similar to yours as far as floor plan, size ceiling height, and insulation and i can not heat it to 70 when really cold (0 and below) in the stove room.

Sounds like another place that would benefit massively from an energy audit, sealing up the leaks and insulation. Otherwise the fire is just heating up outdoors.

 

[laynes69]

I agree with the air-sealing, very important. Dense packing cellouse will stop air and insulate at the same time which is very effective. Last year I couldn't heat the house over 68 degrees when it was around 20F out. After air sealing most of the attic I was able to keep the house at 70F down to -5 outside. The house has good insulation, but was drafty. Now we dont feel drafts, and are much more comfortable. I still need about 12 inches of cellouse in the attic, but I still have to airseal the top plates of all the exterior walls then I will be done. We had an old woodfurnace that put out a ton of heat, but ate wood like candy so we never thought there was a problem in the house. When we upgraded I realized the house was very leaky. Now we stay warm and comfortable while using less wood.

 

[joefrompa]

If your house is well sealed up (air-flow), the air itself will provide an insulating factor. It's the same reason why you can build an igloo and get nice and toasty.

If you can barely heat a single room, with the fireplace in it, there my guess is you've got massive amounts of air leakage.

Get an energy audit, they will convey the same information:

1. Stop air leakage first and foremost
2. Insulate

Alot of people worry about windows, but a big window with no air loss (i.e. a big bay window, properly installed, with casement style windows on the sides) + a thick, insulated curtain will really make a massive difference compared to a double-hung, poorly installed window with no curtain that's 1/4 the size.

 

[iceman]

I currently heat with Natural gas. However, I just bought the house in July and haven't "wintered" in it yet, or even turned the furnace on for that matter (at least, no more than just to make sure it worked before buying the house). Also, I do have a good amount of seasoned wood (oak and maple) on hand, so buying wet wood wouldn't be a problem, at least this year.

If you can get the largest stove you can afford, .... seeing that you already have good wood that's what I would do....
However, the smartest thing would be to do lwhat was mentioned above.... call the gas company and find out Wht the previous winters were.....
Please don't think I or any other is being harsh on you but most of us were in something similar to you.. if I knew now Wht I didn't then I would have some type of gasfier furnace or maybe even a bk.......lol

 

[Archer39]

for what is is worth, my house is very similar to yours as far as floor plan, size ceiling height, and insulation and i can not heat it to 70 when really cold (0 and below) in the stove room.

Sounds like another place that would benefit massively from an energy audit, sealing up the leaks and insulation. Otherwise the fire is just heating up outdoors.

Yes it would, last year we moved into our house in October so we did not have much time before winter to do much. Since then i have replaced all three doors, frames and added added r-30 to the entire attic space. Also i sealed up the gaps pictured below around the entire house. I could see light after taking all the baseboard off around the oldest part of our house at 15 different spots. used about 6 cans of foam to fill gaps :cheese: I am hoping i will see a difference this winter.

 

[allhandsworking]

When you decide to insulate don't be intimidated. I had cellulose pumped in. They were out at 345 floors swept. They make small holes in each bay then pump it in. Then they Spackle the holes. I like cellulose because it is none toxic and fire resistant. The guy held a hand full and put a blow torch to it! 1800 sq ft was $3500 in NYC! The house is quieter and warmer! This was before I got my insert and my boiler was on all the time to keep the house 65. That day the boiler didn't come back on until about 8 pm. Now with the insert my home is in the 70s and I only burn 3/10 the amount of oil! They will come back with a thermal imaging camera to see if they missed any spots! There was one bay that was missed but I found it when it was in the single digits! I simply ran my hand across the wall and found that the bay was uncomfortably cold!