Jotul vs Blaze King vs Vermont Castings Wood Stove?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
I have an identical chimney setup as you and I’m running a BK King with no liner!
No stainless liner but a clay tile liner in the chimney, correct?

It can be risky to make equivalent comparisons with just chimney height. There are several other factors that can make or break good draft. I think it's going to be fine with a 6" liner, but considering that the OP has an existing old stove and chimney, the safest thing might be to measure the draft with instrumentation on the old system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hexa Fox
No stainless liner but a clay tile liner in the chimney, correct?

It can be risky to make equivalent comparisons with just chimney height. There are several other factors that can make or break good draft. I think it's going to be fine with a 6" liner, but considering that the OP has an existing old stove and chimney, the safest thing might be to measure the draft with instrumentation on the old system.
Yes clay liner, same size as OP but my install is on first floor not in a basement.
 
Yes clay liner, same size as OP but my install is on first floor not in a basement.
Also, he is looking at 6" flue stoves. The BK King's 8" flue requirement is a closer match to the 7" x 11"ID tile liner.
 
3 sides exposed to the cold as well on logfarmers chimney

Point being it is far from manufacturers recommended “optimal” chimney and does just fine. Of course, we all know every home/stove/chimney set-up is unique unto themselves.
 
No stainless liner but a clay tile liner in the chimney, correct?

It can be risky to make equivalent comparisons with just chimney height. There are several other factors that can make or break good draft. I think it's going to be fine with a 6" liner, but considering that the OP has an existing old stove and chimney, the safest thing might be to measure the draft with instrumentation on the old system.
Can you measure draft pretty easily yourself? Because I know this house has a lot of issues. The house was built out of square so a lot of it is off center. The basement and foyer are the worst. Specifically, the basement door has never closed or latched correctly because of how crooked it is. So there are most likely air problems.

I am still looking into the DuraLiner and plan to contact them tomorrow hopefully. Because the way that I understand it the round pipe that comes off my stove, goes through my thimble and into the tee is just a press fit. So my thimble is actually 8". So this tee may not even fit snugly or it may have too much space to move around.

Perhaps I want to look into something like the BK King that is 8"? I do not know how much bigger the oval liner going up the chimney would need to be. I am guessing my father and the installer made the thimble 8" so larger stoves would be compatible.
 
8" flue stoves are pretty much a thing of the past except for a few stoves. The 6" tee snout from the liner will pass through the thimble. That is what the stovepipe connects to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hexa Fox
Can you measure draft pretty easily yourself?
Yes. Easiest method is with a Magnehelic, and you can pick them up used on ebay. You're typically looking for something near .05 inches water column for modern stoves, so a gauge with a full range of 0.25" WC usually works well, giving sufficient resolution to see .01" increments without pegging and damaging the thing on a taller chimney.

There may be other manometers that work as well, maybe even cheaper than a magnehelic, but do note you need something with .01" resolution. You won't get this resolution with a water U-tube.

Do note that chimney draft spec's are usually made on a warmed chimney with stove going, often at WOT. A chimney might show zero or even negative draft (reversal) when it's cold and the weather is warm, but that's not a sign of a bad chimney.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hexa Fox
Oh, one other thing: HexaFox & Hoytman, two "blue H" avatars from new or less-frequent posters on the same thread. Some of us may be crossing your stories! Might be time for a real avatar. ;lol
 
Oh, one other thing: HexaFox & Hoytman, two "blue H" avatars from new or less-frequent posters on the same thread. Some of us may be crossing your stories! Might be time for a real avatar. ;lol
Resolved!

Do note that chimney draft spec's are usually made on a warmed chimney with stove going, often at WOT. A chimney might show zero or even negative draft (reversal) when it's cold and the weather is warm, but that's not a sign of a bad chimney.
Nice reading my mind, this was my next question. The wood stove I have now is faulty so I do not know how much that would throw it off if at all. I guess I could consider hooking it back up though. I am also creeping closer to having to make a decision. I tried to contact DuraVent but got their voicemail so hopefully they will call me back in short order. Like I said if I can get something used this year and get the liner installed that will be enough. I can plan to fix the crown and make other decisions next year.
 
Yes. Easiest method is with a Magnehelic, and you can pick them up used on ebay. You're typically looking for something near .05 inches water column for modern stoves, so a gauge with a full range of 0.25" WC usually works well, giving sufficient resolution to see .01" increments without pegging and damaging the thing on a taller chimney.

There may be other manometers that work as well, maybe even cheaper than a magnehelic, but do note you need something with .01" resolution. You won't get this resolution with a water U-tube.

Do note that chimney draft spec's are usually made on a warmed chimney with stove going, often at WOT. A chimney might show zero or even negative draft (reversal) when it's cold and the weather is warm, but that's not a sign of a bad chimney.
Dwyer Mark II Model 25 <$50.

An inside the home chimney likely will always have draft even when there is no fire if the home is warm already.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Hexa Fox
Oh, one other thing: HexaFox & Hoytman, two "blue H" avatars from new or less-frequent posters on the same thread. Some of us may be crossing your stories! Might be time for a real avatar. ;lol
Been a few days since I looked on this forum. I’m getting older so excuse me when I say I have no clue what you’re talking about. “blue H” avatars?? Crossing stories??
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hexa Fox
Don't worry about it, Hexa Fox changed theirs.

In most views of this forum, a picture appears over the username. New users get a colored letter as the first initial of their user name, until they replace it with an image or photo.
 
Don't worry about it, Hexa Fox changed theirs.

In most views of this forum, a picture appears over the username. New users get a colored letter as the first initial of their user name, until they replace it with an image or photo.
Some of us never bother to lol
 
  • Like
  • Haha
Reactions: Ashful and Hexa Fox
8" flue stoves are pretty much a thing of the past except for a few stoves. The 6" tee snout from the liner will pass through the thimble. That is what the stovepipe connects to.
Can I just use stove pipe from the wood stove to the tee or should some of it be insulated or?
 
Don't worry about it, Hexa Fox changed theirs.

In most views of this forum, a picture appears over the username. New users get a colored letter as the first initial of their user name, until they replace it with an image or photo.
Oh…learn something everyday if we try hard enough.
 
Can I just use stove pipe from the wood stove to the tee or should some of it be insulated or?
Double-wall stovepipe is recommended.
 
Last edited: