kitchen backsplash options that won't collect water

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twd000

Feeling the Heat
Aug 28, 2015
448
Southern New Hampshire
We have some water damage accumulating behind our kitchen sink. It's just painted wainscoting board. Looking for options to cover it with something more life-proof.

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The classic choice is tile, but I'm having trouble picturing how the joints between the lower edge, molding, and counter won't collect water. It seems I need something flexible that I can overlap in a continuous surface that won't leave joints.

Has anyone used this peel and stick stuff, and press-molded down into the corner and over the sink lip?

https://www.houzz.com/product/54360...le-set-of-48-contemporary-wall-and-floor-tile
 
I believe you're looking for a tile with this shape for the bottom row of the backslash. The curve will keep water away from the joint where countertop meets the backsplash.
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ah those preformed Formica type countertop have the curved backsplash edges and no seam... and it helps a lots or
maybe can get hold of some plastic or granite etc remnant.
just a thought
 
I believe you're looking for a tile with this shape for the bottom row of the backslash. The curve will keep water away from the joint where countertop meets the backsplash.
View attachment 218450

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Ps I think I have seen thee in longer lengths...
 
That looks promising. Is the back radiused enough to sit over the molding, or do I need to cut out that section of the molding?
I'll need a long front edge to reach all the way to overlap the sink rim
 
Any tile set in silicone under the bottom edge will work.
Of course with tile grout lines you'll be cleaning the grout occasionally.
I went with peel & stick polished stone tiles and love them. I try not splashing a bunch of water also.
 
So leave the molding, and cut a skinny tile with a bullnose finish to sit under the curved tile?
We try not to splash either but apparently one or both of us is messy!
I'll pick something with narrow grout lines.
If I sand down the flaking paint, can that peel and stick stuff adhere directly to the intact paint?
 
If you're talking about the 1/4 round moulding at the bottom, get rid of that. It is 1/2 your problem.
I used a double sides sticky matt & also peel & stick tiles. Mounted flush on top oF the counter top. I didn't caulk as there is no real splash problem.
Either use tile, and use a base tile like the one showed earlier, or use flat tiles all the way down. I doubt you'll have a peel & stick option with regular tiles.
If you go the tile route, keep the grout lines small, about 1/8", and use non sanded grout. easier to clean, and best for small grout joints. Seal everything especially the grout lines after it dries.

For peel & stick tiles, you can probably just scrape any loose paint on the wainscotting, and stick the tiles to it. Maybe a good paint primer first.
Or use the double sided matting.
I had wallpaper that was not going to come off easy, so I cleaned it real well and used the double sided matting as an extra precaution.
Here is the tiles I used, no grout and I like the look. Be warned they are shinier than in the store picture. Most except the ones the protrude out more, are a polished stone.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Inoxia-...-Tile-Backsplash-in-Brown-USIS313-2/206643382

Here is the matting I used.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-...-ft-Roll-of-Tile-Setting-Mat-SMCR30/203919986

Here are the tiles in real life.
 

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I used cheap white subway tiles from HD a few years ago and it's held up well. You don't have to be so persnickity about lining up the joints either.
 
You shouldn't have anything that can rot as a backsplash so close to the sink. You've got a maintenance nightmare that will always look like crap and always need repair. Rip out the molding and wainscoating. Tile is a popular choice because it is a great choice.

Stick on is good and all, but not in an area you get lots of water. Your wall is quite close to the back of the sink. I'd think twice about stick on in this area.