Load 5 of the season

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TMonter

Minister of Fire
Feb 8, 2007
1,526
Hayden, ID
Here was load 5 of the season. Ended up being about 1.2 cord. Took my boys out for the first time.

Everything is Doug fir and was standing dead trees I felled and sawed up in the woods. I use cables and ground tackle to drag the loads at the road for processing. Final splitting takes place at home.
 

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Good looking crew, TM. Oh, yeah...the wood looks OK too. :) Rick
 
You "only" loaded 1.2 cords...shees...fill it up! Sigh...what I would give to be able to haul that kind of volume...

Nice pics!
 
Do you think you may have worked the boys too hard on their first time out? They wore their pants out! ;-)
Seriously, good work! 3/4 ton truck?
"I use cables and ground tackle" What is this stuff and how do you use it?
 
Great pics of you and the boys! That's a good load of wood on an old Ford truck! I owned a 91 Ford XLT Lariat that looked similar but totalled it in a crash.. If I had a pic of the boys with me like that I'd have that hanging on the wall! Great memories of the good times and they don't last forever..

Ray
 
Having the wood for heat is nice, but having the time with the kids in the woods, PRICELESS !!!!

Shawn
 
TMonter said:
Here was load 5 of the season. Ended up being about 1.2 cord. Took my boys out for the first time.

Everything is Doug fir and was standing dead trees I felled and sawed up in the woods. I use cables and ground tackle to drag the loads at the road for processing. Final splitting takes place at home.


Nice job, the crew must of loved it.


zap
 
Looks good TM, I'd keep that crew!
 
That is what I'd call quality time with the boys and one of the very best is that you spent it out in the woods.
 
Great pic TM. Enjoy that time with the kids,they grow up so fast.Few more years you'll have 2 more 'equal partners' on your crew.
 
Yeah I enjoyed having them out there with me this weekend. I'm definitely making use of the time when they are young because I do know they grow up fast. Seems like yesterday when my oldest was still small enough to fall asleep on my lap.

The truck is a 1986 F250 with a 460-V8 I picked up off craigslist for $1900. It's a bit thisrty but I only drive it about 1000 miles a year so overall it's a good investment. The truck is in excellent condition other than the fuel pump in the rear tank was shot when I bought it. I installed a new tank, pump, filters and put locking gas caps on the truck.

I love how much it hauls compared to my Dodge W150 that I had before this.
 
TMonter said:
Yeah I enjoyed having them out there with me this weekend. I'm definitely making use of the time when they are young because I do know they grow up fast. Seems like yesterday when my oldest was still small enough to fall asleep on my lap.

The truck is a 1986 F250 with a 460-V8 I picked up off craigslist for $1900. It's a bit thisrty but I only drive it about 1000 miles a year so overall it's a good investment. The truck is in excellent condition other than the fuel pump in the rear tank was shot when I bought it. I installed a new tank, pump, filters and put locking gas caps on the truck.

I love how much it hauls compared to my Dodge W150 that I had before this.
TM, Great pictures and priceless times. I always took my kids with me. They loved it and my son, and grandson and I now go together to cut wood. I have an '88 ford F-250 and it will haul anything you can fit in it. Good looking load of wood too!
 
Great pics.
In a few years, you can be the helper.
Nice sized wood!
 
TMonter said:
Here was load 5 of the season. Ended up being about 1.2 cord. Took my boys out for the first time.

Everything is Doug fir and was standing dead trees I felled and sawed up in the woods. I use cables and ground tackle to drag the loads at the road for processing. Final splitting takes place at home.

I new to the burning gig.
I always thought pine was not good to burn. To much sap.
Is that true?
 
infinitymike said:
TMonter said:
Here was load 5 of the season. Ended up being about 1.2 cord. Took my boys out for the first time.

Everything is Doug fir and was standing dead trees I felled and sawed up in the woods. I use cables and ground tackle to drag the loads at the road for processing. Final splitting takes place at home.

I new to the burning gig.
I always thought pine was not good to burn. To much sap.
Is that true?

I thought that too untill I came to this forum.. Around here we have lots of good hardwood but people on the west coast and Alaska and other areas have little hardwoods.. They have burned pine there for decades and they don't burn their houses down.. What really matters isn't the type of wood that causes creosote but rather it's burning wet wood that causes creosote.. Most woods are dry and ready to burn in about a year if cut, split and stacked off the ground for that year.. The exception is Oak which requires 2-3 years to season.. Welcome to the forum and good luck!

Ray
 
raybonz said:
infinitymike said:
TMonter said:
Here was load 5 of the season. Ended up being about 1.2 cord. Took my boys out for the first time.

Everything is Doug fir and was standing dead trees I felled and sawed up in the woods. I use cables and ground tackle to drag the loads at the road for processing. Final splitting takes place at home.

I new to the burning gig.
I always thought pine was not good to burn. To much sap.
Is that true?

I thought that too untill I came to this forum.. Around here we have lots of good hardwood but people on the west coast and Alaska and other areas have little hardwoods.. They have burned pine there for decades and they don't burn their houses down.. What really matters isn't the type of wood that causes creosote but rather it's burning wet wood that causes creosote.. Most woods are dry and ready to burn in about a year if cut, split and stacked off the ground for that year.. The exception is Oak which requires 2-3 years to season.. Welcome to the forum and good luck!

Ray

Douglas Fir even though it is technically a softwood has more BTU value than a lot of "hardwoods". Everything you see in the photo is Douglas Fir.
 
TMonter said:
raybonz said:
infinitymike said:
TMonter said:
Here was load 5 of the season. Ended up being about 1.2 cord. Took my boys out for the first time.

Everything is Doug fir and was standing dead trees I felled and sawed up in the woods. I use cables and ground tackle to drag the loads at the road for processing. Final splitting takes place at home.

I new to the burning gig.
I always thought pine was not good to burn. To much sap.
Is that true?

I thought that too untill I came to this forum.. Around here we have lots of good hardwood but people on the west coast and Alaska and other areas have little hardwoods.. They have burned pine there for decades and they don't burn their houses down.. What really matters isn't the type of wood that causes creosote but rather it's burning wet wood that causes creosote.. Most woods are dry and ready to burn in about a year if cut, split and stacked off the ground for that year.. The exception is Oak which requires 2-3 years to season.. Welcome to the forum and good luck!

Ray

Douglas Fir even though it is technically a softwood has more BTU value than a lot of "hardwoods". Everything you see in the photo is Douglas Fir.

It may be OK but there is better..

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm

Ray
 
raybonz said:
TMonter said:
Douglas Fir even though it is technically a softwood has more BTU value than a lot of "hardwoods". Everything you see in the photo is Douglas Fir.

It may be OK but there is better..

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm

Ray
Oh no, another list. :roll: Every list I look at says something different! Take this chimneysweep, e.g.
I'm no btu expert, but Sugar Maple with the same btu as Black Locust? I doubt it. I'm guessing that if you look at a bunch of lists and average all the different btu ratings on a particular species, you might be pretty close...
I've seen several lists that had Douglas Fir at 20M btu/cord or more, about like Black Cherry. Not bad at all.
 
Woody Stover said:
raybonz said:
TMonter said:
Douglas Fir even though it is technically a softwood has more BTU value than a lot of "hardwoods". Everything you see in the photo is Douglas Fir.

It may be OK but there is better..

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm

Ray
Oh no, another list. :roll: Every list I look at says something different! Take this chimneysweep, e.g.
I'm no btu expert, but Sugar Maple with the same btu as Black Locust? I doubt it. I'm guessing that if you look at a bunch of lists and average all the different btu ratings on a particular species, you might be pretty close...
I've seen several lists that had Douglas Fir at 20M btu/cord or more, about like Black Cherry. Not bad at all.

Not saying Douglass Fir is bad just saying there is better.. If you look at the chart you will find that the heavier the wood the higher the BTU's.. It's all about wood density (weight) and I would have no problem burning Doug Fir if it was common around here but would take Hard Maple, Locust, Ash or Oak over it.. I like having a mix as there times that less is more especially during the early and late heating seasons when I want to be warm not hot..

Ray
 
raybonz said:
Woody Stover said:
raybonz said:
TMonter said:
Douglas Fir even though it is technically a softwood has more BTU value than a lot of "hardwoods". Everything you see in the photo is Douglas Fir.

It may be OK but there is better..

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm

Ray
Oh no, another list. :roll: Every list I look at says something different! Take this chimneysweep, e.g.
I'm no btu expert, but Sugar Maple with the same btu as Black Locust? I doubt it. I'm guessing that if you look at a bunch of lists and average all the different btu ratings on a particular species, you might be pretty close...
I've seen several lists that had Douglas Fir at 20M btu/cord or more, about like Black Cherry. Not bad at all.

Not saying Douglass Fir is bad just saying there is better.. If you look at the chart you will find that the heavier the wood the higher the BTU's.. It's all about wood density (weight) and I would have no problem burning Doug Fir if it was common around here but would take Hard Maple, Locust, Ash or Oak over it.. I like having a mix as there times that less is more especially during the early and late heating seasons when I want to be warm not hot..

Ray

My complaint about hardwoods is they are a lot more difficult to process. I've cut up some cherry and oak here and the time it take me to process one cord of those I can do two or more of Red Fir. That list really underestimates the BTU value in Red fir which comes in around 20-21 MMBtu/cord. If course as with all species it depends on how fast it was grown and such.
 
TMonter said:
raybonz said:
Woody Stover said:
raybonz said:
TMonter said:
Douglas Fir even though it is technically a softwood has more BTU value than a lot of "hardwoods". Everything you see in the photo is Douglas Fir.

It may be OK but there is better..

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm

Ray
Oh no, another list. :roll: Every list I look at says something different! Take this chimneysweep, e.g.
I'm no btu expert, but Sugar Maple with the same btu as Black Locust? I doubt it. I'm guessing that if you look at a bunch of lists and average all the different btu ratings on a particular species, you might be pretty close...
I've seen several lists that had Douglas Fir at 20M btu/cord or more, about like Black Cherry. Not bad at all.

Not saying Douglass Fir is bad just saying there is better.. If you look at the chart you will find that the heavier the wood the higher the BTU's.. It's all about wood density (weight) and I would have no problem burning Doug Fir if it was common around here but would take Hard Maple, Locust, Ash or Oak over it.. I like having a mix as there times that less is more especially during the early and late heating seasons when I want to be warm not hot..

Ray

My complaint about hardwoods is they are a lot more difficult to process. I've cut up some cherry and oak here and the time it take me to process one cord of those I can do two or more of Red Fir. That list really underestimates the BTU value in Red fir which comes in around 20-21 MMBtu/cord. If course as with all species it depends on how fast it was grown and such.

You said Doug Fir not red fir.. Here we have lots od red and white oak and they split easily unless you have a crotch piece.. Maybe you have different species?

Ray
 
The charts are just guidelines. There are too many variables to say how many btus are in each type of wood.
 
raybonz said:
TMonter said:
raybonz said:
Woody Stover said:
raybonz said:
TMonter" date="1315205325 said:
Douglas Fir even though it is technically a softwood has more BTU value than a lot of "hardwoods". Everything you see in the photo is Douglas Fir.

It may be OK but there is better..

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm

Ray
Oh no, another list. :roll: Every list I look at says something different! Take this chimneysweep, e.g.
I'm no btu expert, but Sugar Maple with the same btu as Black Locust? I doubt it. I'm guessing that if you look at a bunch of lists and average all the different btu ratings on a particular species, you might be pretty close...
I've seen several lists that had Douglas Fir at 20M btu/cord or more, about like Black Cherry. Not bad at all.

Not saying Douglass Fir is bad just saying there is better.. If you look at the chart you will find that the heavier the wood the higher the BTU's.. It's all about wood density (weight) and I would have no problem burning Doug Fir if it was common around here but would take Hard Maple, Locust, Ash or Oak over it.. I like having a mix as there times that less is more especially during the early and late heating seasons when I want to be warm not hot..

Ray

My complaint about hardwoods is they are a lot more difficult to process. I've cut up some cherry and oak here and the time it take me to process one cord of those I can do two or more of Red Fir. That list really underestimates the BTU value in Red fir which comes in around 20-21 MMBtu/cord. If course as with all species it depends on how fast it was grown and such.

You said Doug Fir not red fir.. Here we have lots od red and white oak and they split easily unless you have a crotch piece.. Maybe you have different species?

Ray

Doug Fir and Red fir are the same thing. Red fir is the common name because of the wood color.
 
raybonz said:
infinitymike said:
TMonter said:
Here was load 5 of the season. Ended up being about 1.2 cord. Took my boys out for the first time.

Everything is Doug fir and was standing dead trees I felled and sawed up in the woods. I use cables and ground tackle to drag the loads at the road for processing. Final splitting takes place at home.

I new to the burning gig.
I always thought pine was not good to burn. To much sap.
Is that true?

I thought that too untill I came to this forum.. Around here we have lots of good hardwood but people on the west coast and Alaska and other areas have little hardwoods.. They have burned pine there for decades and they don't burn their houses down.. What really matters isn't the type of wood that causes creosote but rather it's burning wet wood that causes creosote.. Most woods are dry and ready to burn in about a year if cut, split and stacked off the ground for that year.. The exception is Oak which requires 2-3 years to season.. Welcome to the forum and good luck!

Ray

Very true . . . I tend to burn some pine and softwood even though I have access to hardwood . . . mainly large branches that have fallen down around my house . . . the eastern white pine tends to burn up quick though so I tend to use that for my fall fires when I need a quick, hot fire to just take the chill out of the house. As Ray said, the key with pine or any wood is to make sure it is seasoned before burning.
 
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