Modify your sawbuck, or...

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Beetle-Kill

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Sep 8, 2009
1,849
Colorado- near the Divide
My existing sawbuck has 24" centers for the X's, works great for log length wood. But...
I have another huge stack of rounds, lengths vary from 16" to 26". I'm after 17" so I can go N/S in the BKK, and that means I'll have to do some cutting. I now come to my question-
For the sake of efficiency, would you-..
(A)- modify your sawbuck to be able to cut at 17", one round at a time (20" max. diam. rounds)-
-or-
(B)- split all the rounds regardsless of length, then fab a verticle cut box to cut to desired length? (I think ZAP has posted something like this in the past)

I'm leaning towards cutting the rounds first, then stacking the cookies for shoulder season.
Thanks, JB
 
I just had a bunch of limb type wood(no bigger than 10" diameter stuff) I had to shorten. I built something similar to what Zap has but extended it out so I could make two cuts instead of one. I like my saw buck but only dealing with a round or two at a time gets old quick for me.
 
I still have the box I built so I can cut the splits down but if I get anything longer then 16 inches I burn it e/w.

zap
 
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I made 16 inches X 16 inches with open sides so I stack limbs sideways to cut them down then put the ones that are left a little too long n-s

IMG_4930.jpg
 
I made 16 inches X 16 inches with open sides so I stack limbs sideways to cut them down then put the ones that are left a little too long n-s

IMG_4930.jpg
That's slick!
 
I cobbled this together with scrap pallets I had laying around. It allows me to make two 17" cuts, it's far from perfect and has been "repaired" a time or two but it works well enough.
 

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I would go for option B. I made a box similar to weatherguy's, but taller. It is a little narrower than my 28" bar will cut. I can trim a lot of splits in a hurry. The chunks burn just fine, too.
 
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I would go for option B. I made a box similar to weatherguy's, but taller. It is a little narrower than my 28" bar will cut. I can trim a lot of splits in a hurry. The chunks burn just fine, too.
Ugh, plan B it is.
I modified the sawbuck to hold a round, with a backstop for length. Cut round to desired length, chuck it into a new pile to be split, re-load with a new round and repeat.
That got old, really quick.
So, "plan B". I'll build a new holder, thinking double sided so I can cram both sides full of splits and whack 'em off in two cuts. The wife insists she's a better stacker than I am, so I'm not gonna argue. I'll load this thing, cut 'em down, and she can do her thing while I repeat the process.
Ideas about a cheap "bin" for the cut-offs? I'm thinking of a rock pallet from a stone masons shop.
Thanks, JB
 
I cut mine before a split them. Less individual pieces to handle. I use this sawbuck. The inside braces are spaced for just under 18" rounds.I load up both sides and make two big cuts with the saw. Most of the butts fall in the wheelbarrow.0526101316.jpg
 
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I cut mine before a split them. Less individual pieces to handle. I use this sawbuck. The inside braces are spaced for just under 18" rounds.I load up both sides and make two big cuts with the saw. Most of the butts fall in the wheelbarrow.
Nice. I might copy your design, unless there are copyright infringements to be considered. ;)
 
I can license the design to you for a small fee. ;)
 
I cut mine before a split them. Less individual pieces to handle. I use this sawbuck. The inside braces are spaced for just under 18" rounds.I load up both sides and make two big cuts with the saw. Most of the butts fall in the wheelbarrow.

I just made one like yours (it's at the cabin, so I can't take a picture 'til I go there again). I made it with three "Xs" spaced differently (12" and 18") so that I can support shorter logs on the short side. I also used galvanized bolts to join the legs, so that the sawbuck folds for storage, and used treated lumber for longevity. There are no triangular end caps on mine, again so that it will fold.
 
I just made one like yours (it's at the cabin, so I can't take a picture 'til I go there again). I made it with three "Xs" spaced differently (12" and 18") so that I can support shorter logs on the short side. I also used galvanized bolts to join the legs, so that the sawbuck folds for storage, and used treated lumber for longevity. There are no triangular end caps on mine, again so that it will fold.
Yeah, I'd like to see that for design ideas. If you remember, will you snap a pic next time you are up at your cabin?
 
Yeah, I'd like to see that for design ideas. If you remember, will you snap a pic next time you are up at your cabin?

Will do...I'll probably be there in August (just returned Sunday).
 
Had some time yesterday morning after dropping a large ugly Red Oak hung up snag next to ravine,so dug through my junk pile of salvaged treated 2 x 4's & 2 x 6's.Threw this together.Nothing was over 49" long,so thats what I ended up with.Used the worst stuff I could find,even warped & twisted ones.Marks at 16" & 32",wished I built this in spring 2011.Not much for looks but its built like a brick chithouse & very stable.::-) Sure will save time & most importantly - my back when bucking lots of smaller 4"-8" poles & branches.
 

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Had some time yesterday morning after dropping a large ugly Red Oak hung up snag next to ravine,so dug through my junk pile of salvaged treated 2 x 4's & 2 x 6's.Threw this together.Nothing was over 49" long,so thats what I ended up with.Used the worst stuff I could find,even warped & twisted ones.Marks at 16" & 32",wished I built this in spring 2011.Not much for looks but its built like a brick chithouse & very stable.::-) Sure will save time & most importantly - my back when bucking lots of smaller 4"-8" poles & branches.

That's exactly the same design and materials I used, with two exceptions: my "Xs" are unevenly spaced, and instead of the four nails where they cross, I used 1/2" galvanized bolts. The upper 2x6 on each side fits up against the 2x4s, which provides the stop when it is opened.
 
That's exactly the same design and materials I used, with two exceptions: my "Xs" are unevenly spaced, and instead of the four nails where they cross, I used 1/2" galvanized bolts. The upper 2x6 on each side fits up against the 2x4s, which provides the stop when it is opened.

I used #10 x 3" hot dipped galvanized self threading phillips screws (what I had the most of right now) on everything.On the X braces 5 on one side,4 on the other. No movement on any of it.Guessing 75 lbs weight empty,it will stay in 1 spot.
 
I used #10 x 3" hot dipped galvanized self threading phillips screws (what I had the most of right now) on everything.On the X braces 5 on one side,4 on the other. No movement on any of it.Guessing 75 lbs weight empty,it will stay in 1 spot.

I didn't use the bolts for strength, but so that I could fold the unit for storage.
 
If I have some over length rounds I just go ahead and split them as is and use my chop saw to get them down under 18" length. What ever is left over is chopped up for kindling.
 
If I have some over length rounds I just go ahead and split them as is and use my chop saw to get them down under 18" length. What ever is left over is chopped up for kindling.

What kind of chop saw do you have? All I've found is miter saws (expensive) and chop saws with blades for cutting metal, nothing for cutting wood.
 
Will do...I'll probably be there in August (just returned Sunday).

Just got back from the cabin. Note the spacing of the uprights, one side wider than the other. I should also mention that between each pair of uprights (barely visible) are two fender washers, which reduce the friction when folding the unit.
 

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