Need a cheap source for a backup igniter

Hi all, I am looking for a backup igniter for my 06 st croix afton bay, anyone know where to get one cheap??.

No gel needed---quick and easy.

Tom C.

If it is to replace a bad igniter then try grainger. The carry a number of igniters (cartridge heaters in their catalog). I have two that fit my stove in the spare parts drawer.

Thanks for the ideas i guess .. I would gladly ignite manually but it gets to hot in here even on low during the shoulder season. I need a backup just in case. I have used the propane torch and it works best...

Like I said if you are talking about a replacement type of backup igniter try grainger

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...ridge heater&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset

They have 468 of them in different diameters, wattages, and lengths.

Thanks i will try them.

This one just may work..

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VULCAN-Thunderbolt-Cartridge-Heater-2E911

it's a 300w 4" x 3/8 but you have to modify the mount to get it to work.

Yes i will get a 3/8" connection for the end to keep it attached to the stove... I just can't justify 160 bucks for a OEM replacement.

well i put in the 28 dollar igniter from Granger and it works perfect, only time will tell as to how long it lasts, but i will let everyone know. It's a hell of a deal if it works.... all i had to do was solder longer lines to it and cover with shrink wrap.

Good to see you are back in the world of auto light. I have two spares for my stove.

MAP gas, even better!

What did you use to make a collar? I need one of these and my local pellet stove dealer wants $140 for one!

I bought a rod heater on Ebay to use as a spare igniter for may 25-pdvc. It is a 3/8 by 4", 300 Watt heater with 10 inch leads. For a collar I used a 3/8 drill stop collar and I added crimp on Faston connectors. The rod heater cost me $5, and the collar is from a cheap HF set that I had.
I haven't had an opportunity to fire it up yet, but it looks exactly like the $60 one that ESW is selling. (The leads may be a little shorter, but crimp splices are easy.)
The trick to finding it turned out to be not mentioning stove or igniter in the search. These things are made for heating molds to form plastic into desired shapes. I can't imagine that the rod igniters used for stoves were custom made for the purpose, so I searched for their probable uses.
The heaters are made in China so it takes a few weeks to get it.

I used a 3/8" brass fitting i had in the shed with a 1/4 inside. ignitor has worked great so far.

Now my issue is how to access and remove the old on on my "York" model St. Croix. Anyone know more about this?

Now that's what I'm talking about. My ignitor burned up 3 years ago and havn't used it since. My stove only starts about 5 or 6 times a year anyways. Torch em up and be done!

Anyone?

Have you got a manual with an exploded parts diagram in it?

The installation manual online doesn't.

You have to open things up, locate, and follow the red and white wires to the igniter (usually located behind the burn pot) on the cold side of the firebox it should be inside the air intake system.

After that it is a matter of removing any obstacles such as blowers that prevent access and removing the old bad one, and so forth..

One of the true joys of St Croix stoves is the way they mount the igniter. The ash lip is located right under the door. There are two screws that hold it on. You have to unscrew the side panels to get to the screws. Once you remove the ash lip, the igniter is under it. I then cut the wires to the old igniter. Then there is a set screw that holds it in place. Once the new igniter is installed, tape the new wires to the old wires. Then pull the new wires though the channel and plug them in. WALLLA new igniter

Peace

Brad

It would be much safer to use a crimp on connector than tape. Even a wire nut would be a better choice.

Did you read the whole post? "Tape the new wires to the old wires and pull the new wires through the channel". I suppose I could have added to then untape the new wires. Unplug the old wires and plug the new wires back in.

Peace

Brad

Thanks. I removed what I believe your calling the ash lip. It had 4 screws holding it on and there I saw no other screws or nuts to remove. I'll have another look at it. The guy at the Hearth store also explained something similar to your explanation and he said it was "really easy" and takes about 20 minutes or less. Well I'm pretty mechanically inclined most of the time so I should not be having issues here but maybe I just didnt look at it long enough before I got sidetracked. lol.

No, when I saw the reference to tape I went brain dead and couldn't understand the rest of what you were saying.
Sorry.