Need Help With Harman 52 Accentra Insert " No Power"

[deercamp]

Ok the stove is only three years old and I did the install myself. The first year I used the stove it ran perfect from October through April without a single problem. Last year when I was getting oil for under $1.75 I didn't even bother using the pellet stove. I had cleaned it A to Z at the end of the last time I used it. Today I cleaned to pipe and that went well. About an hour ago I was attempting to light the stove an I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would light up without any problems. I have it plugged into my APC battery back up surge protector. I was so thrilled that it lit up without any problems at all and then..... It was running great for maybe five minutes I'm guessing with a great flame and I was so happy. I had to run outside to do something real quick and when I came back in I saw a very low flame and was like what the heck is going on here. There were no red lights on at all on the stove. The surge protector was still on. No breakers were kicked and the outlet is still fine obviously because the surge protector is powered up. I tried plugging the stove into different outlets directly and no power at all. Could there possibly be a breaker in the stove that blew? Now to say the least I'm very disappointed, aggravated ect.... It's always something isn't it? The family was hoping for a fire tonight, but thats not looking to good at this point. Well hopefully someone can help me. Thanks in advance and have a Happy Thanksgiving...

 

[deercamp]

I just wanted to add that I did have the stove pulled out today when I was cleaning the pipe.

 

[fmsm]

Settings please, room, auto or manual, etc.

 

[deercamp]

Room temp. Auto. 3 feed rate

 

[jackman]

Are you sure you have power to the outlet you're using? My Accentra FS has a power light. I'm assuming yours does too and it's not lit no matter what outlet you are using. My control board has a 5A glass fuse. That would be the next thing I'd check.

 

[deercamp]

I checked the fuse and it's a 6A fuse. I just got home from looking for a new one but I could not find a 6A in the correct size. I went to HD, Lowes, Ace Hardware. I ended up getting a 7A fuse because I've read where a few people have used them. If the igniter is 306 watts 6.12 amps I don't see why they are not using a 7amp fuse to begin with. Do you think it's ok to use this fuse? I'm not sure what actually caused the fuse to blow because the stove had been running for a few minutes after the stove ignited. I'm guessing it would have lost power at ignition. Any idea what might be going on?

 

[deercamp]

Here is a picture of the fuse

 

[MtDew]

You say you pulled the stove to clean the pipe, maybe there is now a pinched wire or wires that happened after pushing it back in. I would double check whatever was recently touched or moved during the pipe cleaning

 

[jackman]

That certainly looks blown. I'd go ahead and put in the 7A fuse as a temporary work around but I'd also go online and purchase an exact replacement from a source like Digikey. Auto parts stores might also have it. I've also read elsewhere in this forum that it's a slow blow fuse. The markings on the fuse will confirm the exact type.

It's hard to say what caused the fuse to blow. If the 7A fuse blows it may suggest that something has gone bad, e.g., igniter, auger motor, control board, etc. You might also want to run it in test mode to see if that detects a fault.

 

[Kennyz]

I couldn't say for sure, but I'd bet that the 6a fuse is a slow blow type. These can handle a bit more rush current than a standard fuse of the same rating. you're probably ok to test with the 7a fuse but I would recommend against leaving it in. I'd hate to see you blow a board over a .25 fuse! I'd look for pinched wires also.

 

[gfreek]

Isn't the most common thing to cause the fuse to blow is a bad igniter ?? Maybe disconnect it and manual start with starter gel..

 

[deercamp]

Well I've looked everywhere for a replacement fuse which is a 6amp 250volt. I've been everywhere and catfind one they apparently are quick burn type. The guy at the electronics store told me to use a 5amp instead of a 7amp for now just to be safe. I blew 2 of them trying to start the stove to see if it was the igniter. The third time I light the stove on manual and it's been running for three hours now. Anyways I'm guessing the previous poster is right that it's a bad igniter. That is horrible that after one year of use and it's dead. On the plus side I can get a replacement for under $50 and do it myself. So if this is the problem I guess it's not the end of the world it could've been a lot worse

 

[deercamp]

Can anyone recommend where they bought a replacement igniter. I was looking at one on eBay with a 6 month warranty compared to the 3 month one from Harman

 

[railfanron]

Home depot, Amazon, Digikey and ebay all have those fuses. I suspect you went to a Radio Shack Store they don't have anything. That's a standard fuse and can be found in any real electronics supply house. I would trace the wires back for the igniter and find the connectors and unhook them and then try to start the stove with a new fuse in it. If the fuse doesn't blow it's the igniter.
Ron

 

[deercamp]

Home depot, Amazon, Digikey and ebay all have those fuses. I suspect you went to a Radio Shack Store they don't have anything. That's a standard fuse and can be found in any real electronics supply house. I would trace the wires back for the igniter and find the connectors and unhook them and then try to start the stove with a new fuse in it. If the fuse doesn't blow it's the igniter.
Ron

Are you saying to try starting it in Auto with the igniter unplugged? Believe it or not I've been to HD,Lowes, Ace Hardware, Napa, Advanced Auto, and a specialty electronic store. The electronic store had the slow burn 6amp and he said I had a quick burn. I'll have to look on line

 

[Bioburner]

Can try an auto parts store too for a fuze. At least you still have a option to manually light the fire and enjoy a fire. My Hestia toasted the igniter last heating season and it's so easy to start and I'm cheap that unless it needs something else I won't bother getting one.
Just pulled the fuse of my spare board and it's a Buss AGC 6A 250 volt

 

[railfanron]

Here's some links: https://www.amazon.com/Qty-Fast-Blow-Fuse-250v-GMA6A/dp/B004HLV3EU
http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/p...50?WT.srch=1&gclid=CP-v_OOxxdACFdgGgQodJ_INhg
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-6-Amp-Up-to-250-Volt-MDQ-Fuse-72428/203537279
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151502611150?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
This is a standard electronic fuse but you need to go to an electronics parts house not a specialty store. Digikey has these in stock and will ship a small order at a reasonable cost. Auto parts will most likely not have these as they are 250 volt rated not 12 volt although they are glass barrel type fuses they aren't the same internally.

Yes trying to start it with the igniter unplugged will test to see if the igniter circuit is working correctly. Obviously the stove will not light with the igniter unplugged but if the fuse doesn't blow then the problem is the igniter and or its connecting wires. If the fuse still blows then the igniter circuit is bad and the igniter itself might be good. Please be careful when working inside the stove and do not let any bare wires be exposed when performing this test.
Ron

 

[Former Farmer]

It is possible that the main circuit board is bad. I had on the board go bad my Harman PB105 boiler. It would start just fine and after about 5 minutes, the fuse would blow. It ending up being the relay that controls the power to the ignitor was never turning off. The ignitor was on all of the time and would end up blowing the fuse. Replaced the board and all was working properly.

 

[gfreek]

Any update on this ??