Need Help With Smoke Leaking Into Home

[Parallax]

Can post a photo tonight, Alforit. I've not sealed the joints. The dealer said doing so would create a toxic smell, something my wife would not be happy about.

Webby, any ideas on how to correct a drafting problem. If the stack is as high as it can go, what else can be done?

 

[bholler]

Yes sealing the joints is not the solution at all

 

[webby3650]

Can post a photo tonight, Alforit. I've not sealed the joints. The dealer said doing so would create a toxic smell, something my wife would not be happy about.

Webby, any ideas on how to correct a drafting problem. If the stack is as high as it can go, what else can be done?

We are all guessing without getting our hands on it. I'm over 2,000 miles away unfortunately. Sealing up pipe joints is not an answer at all, only a band-aid to cover up a problem.

The thing is, your flue is plenty tall and you have an OAK. It should work just fine. It's hard to say, a draft test would be the best place to start.

Is that a Selkirk stovetop adaptor, or is that a jimmy rigged starter piece? Why are their no screws in the joint?

 

[alforit]

Can post a photo tonight, Alforit. I've not sealed the joints. The dealer said doing so would create a toxic smell, something my wife would not be happy about.

Webby, any ideas on how to correct a drafting problem. If the stack is as high as it can go, what else can be done?

You can build the stack as high as you want , but its only as strong as its weakest link.

If your suckin air at the bottom it wont make much difference on top.
Your tree line is affecting your draft somewhat.....looks good though with the high stack next to it

The stove pipe chain tends to be the culprit because it doesn't really seal well in an air tight way.... Especially where it terminates into the flu of the stove , that's a weak spot .Chimney pipe tends to be different because it has the insulation and creates a better seal generally by twist lock or other.

Stove cement is good but it tends to crack from expansion ......but its better than nothing..
There is a pipe sealant that is available that is flexible and wont crack and doesn't smell at far as I can tell. But if it did it would be temporary and also the much lesser of the two evils . (smoke in the house)

I found that by sealing the stove pipe from the stove flu to the ceiling adapter , that as a consequence it removed the smoke smell . ( Especially because of the warm temps in our area combined with all the forest area and the low burn of the BK , It really affects the draft .) It improved the draft and burn times and combustion quality of the wood .

 

[Parallax]

Is that a Selkirk stovetop adaptor, or is that a jimmy rigged starter piece? Why are their no screws in the joint?

I don't know whether it's an adaptor or a jimmy rigged piece. The stove pipe was a bit short and we were thinking maybe the lack of overlap was why we were getting the leakage. Adding the collar (that's what I call it) didn't seem to accomplish much. It is ugly without screws in the joint. The dealer said the space between the outer wall and the inner wall is so small it would be hard to find screws that wouldn't penetrate both, and possibly introduce more smoke leakage.

Would love love love to replace that thing with something better looking. Any thoughts?

 

[Parallax]

You can build the stack as high as you want , but its only as strong as its weakest link.

If your suckin air at the bottom it wont make much difference on top.
Your tree line effecting your draft somewhat.....looks good though with the high stack next to it

Stove pipe tends to be the culprit because it doesn't really seal well in an air tight way.... Chimney pipe tends to be different because it has the insulation and creates a better seal generally by twist lock or other.

Stove cement is good but it tends to crack from expansion ......but its better than nothing..
There is a pipe sealant that is available that is flexible and wont crack and doesn't smell at far as I can tell. But if it did it would be temporary and also the much lesser of the two evils . (smoke in the house)

I have found that by sealing the stove pipe that as a consequence , it removed the smoke smell that can happen sometimes on a low burn with a BK. It improved the draft and burn times and combustion of the wood quality.

This seems at odds with what others are saying about it being a band-aid solution.

 

[bholler]

Stove pipe tends to be the culprit because it doesn't really seal well in an air tight way.... Chimney pipe tends to be different because it has the insulation and creates a better seal generally by twist lock or other.
Stove cement is good but it tends to crack from expansion ......but its better than nothing..
There is a pipe sealant that is available that is flexible and wont crack and doesn't smell at far as I can tell. But if it did it would be temporary and also the much lesser of the two evils . (smoke in the house)
I have found that by sealing the stove pipe that as a consequence , it removed the smoke smell that can happen sometimes on a low burn with a BK. It improved the draft and burn times and combustion of the wood quality.

That would only be an issue if the pipe was very poorly fitting which is not the case here He has good quality double wall pipe that looks like it is installed well I may be wrong on this according to webby 3650. I have never sealed a single stove pipe for a wood stove it is not necessary at all

 

[alforit]

This seems at odds with what others are saying about it being a band-aid solution.

It worked for me. And I had tried many different things

I found out about sealing the stove pipe from a dealer in Tennessee ,by accident, I had tried it a couple years ago on my non-cat stove and was surprised the difference it made in my burn and draft.....

But was a pain in the butt when I had to remove the stove pipe pieces to clean ......Had to whack with a rubber mallet to break the seal.....Ugh

Fast forward .........After I got BK I had forgotten about sealing and then found out about the flexible sealant and that it was easy to break the seal and remove for pipe cleaning and then re-apply.
So I used it to improve the burn times and as a consequence it removed the smoke smell.........Go figure.

 

[webby3650]

I don't know whether it's an adaptor or a jimmy rigged piece. The stove pipe was a bit short and we were thinking maybe the lack of overlap was why we were getting the leakage. Adding the collar (that's what I call it) didn't seem to accomplish much. It is ugly without screws in the joint. The dealer said the space between the outer wall and the inner wall is so small it would be hard to find screws that wouldn't penetrate both, and possibly introduce more smoke leakage.

Would love love love to replace that thing with something better looking. Any thoughts?

I would personally not have that pipe in my house...
It's entry level pipe, fits very poorly and looks bad. I would switch it out with Dura-vent DVL.

The joints should all have 3 screws. 1/2" screws are what's supplied with the pipe, and only penetrate the outer wall, no smoke there to leak!
Typically little things like incorrect adaptors, missing screws etc. will point to other issues with the install. Can I see a picture of the whole connector pipe run? Including the ceiling box adaptor. Do you have any elbows on the chimney itself?

 

[bholler]

I would personally not have that pipe in my house...
It's entry level pipe, fits very poorly and looks bad

Is it really that bad? I don't know i am asking seriously.

 

[webby3650]

Yes! It's the poorest pipe I've ever used. Never again. And it looks hideous! I prefer the tight joints and clean lines from dura-vent.

 

[bholler]

I have never used it but now i know not to. We use ventis stuff and are happy with it

 

[brenndatomu]

If the trees are causing draft issues maybe this Artis directional cap would help? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...e8geAJ&usg=AFQjCNGWGm-XfIUqOufM5XrE0p_cvkqhwQ

 

[Parallax]

I would personally not have that pipe in my house...
It's entry level pipe, fits very poorly and looks bad. I would switch it out with Dura-vent DVL.

The joints should all have 3 screws. 1/2" screws are what's supplied with the pipe, and only penetrate the outer wall, no smoke there to leak!
Typically little things like incorrect adaptors, missing screws etc. will point to other issues with the install. Can I see a picture of the whole connector pipe run? Including the ceiling box adaptor. Do you have any elbows on the chimney itself?

There are no elbows. It's a straight shot straight up. Will post photos of the run tonight. Are you just talking about from the stove to the box or the part outside the house too? I'm not sure I can get closeups of the chimney.

 

[Parallax]

If the trees are causing draft issues maybe this Artis directional cap would help? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEwQFjAH&url=http://store.yukon-eagle.com/6-artis-wind-directional-cap/&ei=ErbSVLf9EsHPaKe8geAJ&usg=AFQjCNGWGm-XfIUqOufM5XrE0p_cvkqhwQ

Interesting. Ugly but, looking at it, I can envision exactly how it might work. Do you have experience with its usage in practice?

 

[brenndatomu]

Not personally. Yeah, it is ugly like a mud fence, huh?! Maybe you could paint it sky blue and it would just disappear into the sky...

 

[bholler]

Interesting. Ugly but, looking at it, I can envision exactly how it might work. Do you have experience with its usage in practice?

I have worked on 2 like that one but not that one exactly they seemed to work until they got gunked up and didn't spin any more. Then it would be possible that it would acctually direct the wind down the chimney. But i do know some are better as far as that goes but some research would be necessary t figure out which ones work best

 

[webby3650]

There are no elbows. It's a straight shot straight up. Will post photos of the run tonight. Are you just talking about from the stove to the box or the part outside the house too? I'm not sure I can get closeups of the chimney.

Is like to see the stove pipe, from the stove to the box. Especially the stove pipe adaptor.

 

[Tenn Dave]

Interesting. Ugly but, looking at it, I can envision exactly how it might work. Do you have experience with its usage in practice?

Here is one that a person on the other site raved about. He said it improved the performance of his stove dramatically. He lives on the shoreline of a windy bay. I have no personal experience with it.


StormShield Model STS

 

[brenndatomu]

they seemed to work until they got gunked up and didn't spin any more.

That would be my only concern with it. It would be OK if you were burning hot n clean, but in that scenario draft problems probably are not very likely...unless maybe it was just a cold start thing

 

[rdust]

I have never sealed a single stove pipe for a wood stove it is not necessary at all

I used furnace cement on my DVL appliance adapter. The collar on my BK stove was a mess, not round with welds screwing up the fit. After grinding the welds down it seemed to improve the fit but still far from perfect.

 

[bholler]

I used furnace cement on my DVL appliance adapter. The collar on my BK stove was a mess, not round with welds screwing up the fit. After grinding the welds down it seemed to improve the fit but still far from perfect.

Yes i have used it at the stove collar but never on the pipe itself. But yeah i have had poorly fitting collars before that needed sealed

 

[alforit]

I used furnace cement on my DVL appliance adapter. The collar on my BK stove was a mess, not round with welds screwing up the fit. After grinding the welds down it seemed to improve the fit but still far from perfect.

Of all the stove pipe pieces , I think that is the weakest link in chain for air leakage . Because of the waffled termination into the flu.

 

[webby3650]

Of all the stove pipe pieces , I think that is the weakest link in chain for air leakage . Because of the waffled termination into the flu.

Waffled? Do you mean crimped?

 

[alforit]

Waffled? Do you mean crimped?

sorry, yes