Need some input on an insert...

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yooper08

Minister of Fire
Jan 4, 2016
618
South Lyon, MI
Don't really want to repeat a thousand thread beginnings from the past, but first time poster but have been reading the forums for about 6 months now. Lots of good info and I've already learned some things.

Just for proof that I learned something, the first decision made to commit was getting the wood supply going now for next winter. Have 1.25 cords of mixed hardwood (1 face cord of red oak I cut and split from half a tree that fell in the yard in July, had a mixed cord of mostly oak & maple brought in from a nearby farm a month ago). All is stacked and covered.

That being said, need some help/guidance on inserts. First, the house. It's a 1979 ranch with two fireplaces, one on the main floor and another in the basement. The main floor fireplace was converted to gas (people prior to us) but could always be converted back. The area of the basement (finished) is approx 800 sqft (rest is garage). The upstairs is about 1850 sqft. The floor plan is open for half that (living room, dining room, and kitchen), and the other half is bedrooms & bathrooms off a hallway. The stairwell is in the middle of the floor plan and is open to the main level (half wall). There's a door to the stairwell in the basement and is directly across the room from the basement fireplace. Main heat source is a nat gas boiler with 3 zones (basement, living area, and bedrooms). As for insulation, it's ok. Working on improving it, mostly air sealing projects.

So we're going to put the insert in the basement. We're moving stuff around the house to hang out down there more often and my office is down there as well (work from home). So, the area's going to be used at least 8 hours a day during the week.

The main goal of the insert is to not use the NG boiler for the basement and to have a backup heat source should the power go out. When I use the fireplace with the door to the stairs closed, I can easily get the basement up to 75F with 3 large splits and a couple smaller ones and keep it above 68 (warm enough for me) for about 4-5 hours, depending on how cold it is outside. Once that basement door is cracked open or not fully closed, air rushing down the stairs blows it open (literally) when the fire is going. This is probably exaggerated due to the big gaping hole of a masonry chimney. Hopefully that continues to work with the insert but exchanges more air instead of sending it all up the chimney. I want to make the fireplace more efficient (less wood, more usable heat, less heat loss) and potentially get some supplemental heat upstairs.

So here are my questions. I've read quite a bit here and elsewhere about trying to heat from the basement, it seems hit or miss and all depends on airflow, so I get that. First, if I have good airflow now with the fireplace, is it reasonable to expect that after an insert is installed that I will be able to get some heat upstairs or will a lot of that airflow be choked off due to the insert? If it comes down to it, I have a fan that I'd put at the bottom of the stairs blowing towards the fireplace. Second, how should I think about sizing my insert? The main goal is 800 sqft in the basement, that's easy. The second goal is supplemental heat upstairs, mainly the open floor plan area next to the stairwell (say 900 sqft). How big is too big when attempting to get supplemental heat upstairs?

I've been looking at the Englander NC-13I (up to 1500 sqft), seems a lot of people like Englander. I've also seen some good things about Drolet, which their Escape 1800 insert is only a few hundred more and can heat up to 2100 sqft with the larger firebox. I like the Englander because they seem to have a DIY attitude and will honor their warranty if you install it yourself. However, I think I'd really like the Lopi Republic 1750i because of the convection system (can anyone comment on how well it works compared to other stoves?), bypass damper, and the cooktop surface (would serve well in a power outage as well), but can't find much pricing info online other than their website which says it's mid-priced. Can anyone here help give an idea on price point for one these days? Are there any other suggestions out there? Is there a big used market out there I haven't found yet?

Budget-wise, in order for this project to make economic sense with nat gas, I'm looking at the lower end but still want something of quality build.

Thanks ahead of time!
 
First, if I have good airflow now with the fireplace, is it reasonable to expect that after an insert is installed that I will be able to get some heat upstairs or will a lot of that airflow be choked off due to the insert?
Aside from the basement acting as a heat sink (need to insulate the walls) another concern is the stack effect. If your current fireplace is drafting OK w/o smoke smell etc when not in use then may be a non-issue.

From a heat movement point of view I believe heat is heat. If warm air is moving out of the basement to the main floor from one source it should do so w/ another. I've suggested in the past people put a kerosene heater in their basement if they have a question about circulation (not sure if anyone took me up on it). If the heat won't move then put the stove where you'll spend the most time.

This could be a good year for buying. With oil and gas down stove sales will most likely lag and there may be bargains to be had after the burning season closes. What are your fireplace dimensions? Also what about the possibility of using a free standing stove? Cheaper, more options, no need for a fan and more heat.
 
Aside from the basement acting as a heat sink (need to insulate the walls) another concern is the stack effect. If your current fireplace is drafting OK w/o smoke smell etc when not in use then may be a non-issue.

Insulation in the basement is good, so not worried about that. Fireplace drafts fine as well so I think I'm good there.

From a heat movement point of view I believe heat is heat. If warm air is moving out of the basement to the main floor from one source it should do so w/ another. I've suggested in the past people put a kerosene heater in their basement if they have a question about circulation (not sure if anyone took me up on it). If the heat won't move then put the stove where you'll spend the most time.

I agree with you but wanted to see if my logic still made sense. I don't have a kerosene heater but when the basement gets warm via the baseboards, I can open the door and see the exchange happening (used a lighter to determine airflow).

This could be a good year for buying. With oil and gas down stove sales will most likely lag and there may be bargains to be had after the burning season closes. What are your fireplace dimensions? Also what about the possibility of using a free standing stove? Cheaper, more options, no need for a fan and more heat.

I'm hoping this year will be a good year for deals, I'm watching for sales at the dealers around here as well as Lowes & HD. Fireplace opening is 30.5x39. Firebox is 31" wide, 21" deep at the base and tapers down to 14" at the top (taper starts 14" from base). Firebox center to mantle is 24" as well as 40" to nearest wall. The hearth extends 20" and is raised a foot. Not too interested in a freestanding stove if it ends up on the floor, but if there are options to put on the hearth, I'm open to that.
 
Don't really want to repeat a thousand thread beginnings from the past, but first time poster but have been reading the forums for about 6 months now. Lots of good info and I've already learned some things.

Just for proof that I learned something, the first decision made to commit was getting the wood supply going now for next winter. Have 1.25 cords of mixed hardwood (1 face cord of red oak I cut and split from half a tree that fell in the yard in July, had a mixed cord of mostly oak & maple brought in from a nearby farm a month ago). All is stacked and covered.

That being said, need some help/guidance on inserts. First, the house. It's a 1979 ranch with two fireplaces, one on the main floor and another in the basement. The main floor fireplace was converted to gas (people prior to us) but could always be converted back. The area of the basement (finished) is approx 800 sqft (rest is garage). The upstairs is about 1850 sqft. The floor plan is open for half that (living room, dining room, and kitchen), and the other half is bedrooms & bathrooms off a hallway. The stairwell is in the middle of the floor plan and is open to the main level (half wall). There's a door to the stairwell in the basement and is directly across the room from the basement fireplace. Main heat source is a nat gas boiler with 3 zones (basement, living area, and bedrooms). As for insulation, it's ok. Working on improving it, mostly air sealing projects.

So we're going to put the insert in the basement. We're moving stuff around the house to hang out down there more often and my office is down there as well (work from home). So, the area's going to be used at least 8 hours a day during the week.

The main goal of the insert is to not use the NG boiler for the basement and to have a backup heat source should the power go out. When I use the fireplace with the door to the stairs closed, I can easily get the basement up to 75F with 3 large splits and a couple smaller ones and keep it above 68 (warm enough for me) for about 4-5 hours, depending on how cold it is outside. Once that basement door is cracked open or not fully closed, air rushing down the stairs blows it open (literally) when the fire is going. This is probably exaggerated due to the big gaping hole of a masonry chimney. Hopefully that continues to work with the insert but exchanges more air instead of sending it all up the chimney. I want to make the fireplace more efficient (less wood, more usable heat, less heat loss) and potentially get some supplemental heat upstairs.

So here are my questions. I've read quite a bit here and elsewhere about trying to heat from the basement, it seems hit or miss and all depends on airflow, so I get that. First, if I have good airflow now with the fireplace, is it reasonable to expect that after an insert is installed that I will be able to get some heat upstairs or will a lot of that airflow be choked off due to the insert? If it comes down to it, I have a fan that I'd put at the bottom of the stairs blowing towards the fireplace. Second, how should I think about sizing my insert? The main goal is 800 sqft in the basement, that's easy. The second goal is supplemental heat upstairs, mainly the open floor plan area next to the stairwell (say 900 sqft). How big is too big when attempting to get supplemental heat upstairs?

I've been looking at the Englander NC-13I (up to 1500 sqft), seems a lot of people like Englander. I've also seen some good things about Drolet, which their Escape 1800 insert is only a few hundred more and can heat up to 2100 sqft with the larger firebox. I like the Englander because they seem to have a DIY attitude and will honor their warranty if you install it yourself. However, I think I'd really like the Lopi Republic 1750i because of the convection system (can anyone comment on how well it works compared to other stoves?), bypass damper, and the cooktop surface (would serve well in a power outage as well), but can't find much pricing info online other than their website which says it's mid-priced. Can anyone here help give an idea on price point for one these days? Are there any other suggestions out there? Is there a big used market out there I haven't found yet?

Budget-wise, in order for this project to make economic sense with nat gas, I'm looking at the lower end but still want something of quality build.

Thanks ahead of time!
Check out the hearthstone clydsdale working great in my basement set up. In a basement set up you may encounter strong draft and you'll want to have an insulated liner and you'll want to insulate the fireplace behind the stove to put the heat in the house and not up the chimney. Also the blowers will pull the air from upstairs to the basement creating the circulation throughout the whole house, making the heat from the stove room more tolerable.
 
Got it, thanks clydeburner. I will be insulating the fireplace and putting in an insulated top plate.

Haven't found too many wood stoves that have the rear flue outlet to put it up on the hearth. However, did find the Regency H2100. Got a quote for $3100 including the liner (no install). Seems a little steep for a small insert, no?
 
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Got it, thanks clydeburner. I will be insulating the fireplace and putting in an insulated top plate.

Haven't found too many wood stoves that have the rear flue outlet to put it up on the hearth. However, did find the Regency H2100. Got a quote for $3100 including the liner (no install). Seems a little steep for a small insert, no?
I would also suggest getting the biggest unit you can fit in the fireplace, you can always build a smaller fire, the extra room for wood will be beneficial when the power is out. Most inserts have an insulated fire box and the "cook top" doesn't get real hot, enough to steam water in a kettle, but I wouldn't say a usable source for cooking.
A free standing stove set on the hearth will heat differently than an insert will due to difference in design. As an insert may not heat as well as a freestander in the event of a power outage, unless you have a generator, then you will be able to power the blower and have plenty of heat. I switched from an old hearth mounted stove to an insert and am very pleased with how the whole house feels more evenly heated.
 
Being the new person to the table here, I guess this brings up two questions.

I get that a larger firebox means longer burns and more BTUs if everything else is the same (ie comparing two flush inserts). But if I'm comparing a hearth mount as opposed to something that's set into the fireplace, don't I really need to compare BTUs? For example, the H2100 puts out 70,000 BTUs max with a 1.6 cuft firebox and the Drolet 1800 puts out 75,000 BTUs max with a 2.4 cuft firebox. That's only 7% more BTUs with 50% more wood, seems like a really bad trade off. Am I wrong in thinking about it that way? To me that's equivalent of a truck that goes 300 miles on 20 gallons compared to another truck that goes 321 miles on 30 gallons.

Plus if the primary space being heated is only 800 sqft, going too big would roast me out of the room on a daily basis, no?
 
Your hi temp curve would be longer with the larger firebox, it will throw those BTU's out longer. Tube burners burn in a cycle, low, medium, hi, medium, low.

To help with this you can put less wood in a larger firebox, you will appreciate that longer hi curve of the larger firebox on the windy freezing days.
 
Many will say the BTU Ratings are false as we are not burning in epa standard test facilities with a 15' chimney in a mild location using "test" wood. The type of wood burned will play a huge role in the BTUs you get out of the stove no matter what make or model.
I still feel go big or go home, I think you may be disappointed with a unit that is too small and you could become a slave to loading wood more often to keep comfortable. If you plan to occasionally use on nights or weekends then it may not be that big of a deal, but for an all night burn and 24/7 you could find it hard to have enough coals for a morning reload. My 2.4cuft box will pump heat out for 8+ hrs on a full load with plenty of coals to start right up again.
 
Got it, thanks for the quick replies.

Makes sense. As I thought about it more between posting and you guys, I thought maybe there's a heat curve since the factor I hadn't considered was burn time and said to myself, maybe I am wrong. So, glad to see someone else mention it.

Edit: So instead of 50% more BTUs/hr, I essentially get 50% more burn time with the larger firebox, hence that heat curve.
 
I w

I would also suggest getting the biggest unit you can fit in the fireplace, you can always build a smaller fire, the extra room for wood will be beneficial when the power is out. Most inserts have an insulated fire box and the "cook top" doesn't get real hot, enough to steam water in a kettle, but I wouldn't say a usable source for cooking..

Yes yes yes to this. I wish we'd gone for a bigger insert. You can always build a smaller fire, but you're probably not going to want to upgrade your insert once it's in.

Keeping a kettle or even just a big pot of water on the stovetop will also help keep the air more humid.
 
Edit: So instead of 50% more BTUs/hr, I essentially get 50% more burn time with the larger firebox, hence that heat curve.
Yes, less peak, but longer overall output.= happy you:)

Keeping a kettle or even just a big pot of water on the stovetop will also help keep the air more humid.

I use a 2000sqft Humidifier that has adjustable humidity levels and has a humidistat that controls the output, it runs for 2 4hrs with its 2 tanks. It was under $100, works great.
 
Ok, I've settled on the Drolet Escape after getting some quotes in the area on a few others. It fits in my budget and needs, and it's currently on sale at a store around here (plus the recently re-enacted $300 tax credit...woohoo!). Here's the question I have.

All my clearances check out except for one - the mantle. I have an 8" mantle that's 2" too low for the 1800 (req is 22"). There's the heat shield that would bring this into compliance. But I also looked at the 1400 to see what its clearances were...it has an even larger clearance requirement (31") to the mantle and you can't get a shield for it. Why would the 1400 model, being smaller, have a larger clearance requirement than it's bigger brother? Am I basically stuck with the 1800? I'm not complaining that I have to go with the larger one, I just can't make that make sense in my head.
 
Another question once I get around to installing it. My fireplace is lined with metal up to the damper. I'm not sure if it's an old Heatilator firebox but it does have the fans and vents in the masonry. Will I need to cut this out or can I leave it in there?
 
If there are heat tubes running over the fireplace and blocking the clear passage of a liner to the insert then one or two tubes will need to be removed in order to allow the liner to pass.
 
Got it, there aren't any tubes up there...just the metal surround all the way up to the damper. So I take it I don't have to worry about taking it out?

For the block off plate, since I don't know where the mortar joints are, should I avoid trying to secure it with screws and just try using silicone with something to support it while it dries? Or does going through brick with the screws not really matter?
 
I'd fold down a flange for screwing, pre-drill clear holes, then run a bead of silicone and screw the block-off plate in place with #8 sheetmetal screws.
 
Well, it's ordered! However, didn't get the Drolet. They didn't have it in stock nor at the warehouse and they couldn't tell if it was backordered or just done for the season. They had the Century CW2900 though and it was $200 cheaper. By everything I can tell is the exact same insert except that it has a 5 year warranty instead of the lifetime on the Drolet. Not as many reviews here on the Century...was this a good purchase? Are there differences that I didn't pick up on?
 
The Century is a good value. It should serve you well.
 
Thanks begreen for helping me out. Going to Menards to pick it up tonight.

So next step is the chimney. Their 35' Selkirk kit is no longer in stock (by my measurements, my chimney is 26'...that sucks). For essentially the same price, I can get the 25' kit and piece together some black stove pipe. Here's what I'm thinking. Use some flex up to the damper to easily accommodate any offset between where I place the insert and the throat, connected to a couple of circle-oval boots through the throat, a 3' straight section of stove pipe, then flex the rest of the way. Based on what I've read, doing this seems ok, but are there any concerns/drawbacks to setting up the chimney like this? I'd use furnace cement at all of the joints to make sure I don't have any leaks.
 
So next step is the chimney. Their 35' Selkirk kit is no longer in stock (by my measurements, my chimney is 26'...that sucks). For essentially the same price, I can get the 25' kit and piece together some black stove pipe. Here's what I'm thinking. Use some flex up to the damper to easily accommodate any offset between where I place the insert and the throat, connected to a couple of circle-oval boots through the throat, a 3' straight section of stove pipe, then flex the rest of the way. Based on what I've read, doing this seems ok, but are there any concerns/drawbacks to setting up the chimney like this? I'd use furnace cement at all of the joints to make sure I don't have any leaks.
You cannot use black pipe inside the chimney. Also you don't really want to ovalize the liner that will hurt draft and make it much harder to clean. Cut the box out enough to allow for a round liner to be used the whole way. You also did not mention insulation for the liner you want that for sure and it is very likely you need it to meet code as well.
 
You cannot use black pipe inside the chimney. Also you don't really want to ovalize the liner that will hurt draft and make it much harder to clean. Cut the box out enough to allow for a round liner to be used the whole way. You also did not mention insulation for the liner you want that for sure and it is very likely you need it to meet code as well.

I would agree with this and would not feel comfortable knowing I have a sectioned flue with the possibility of a breach and having no way of knowing until it was too late. Can you get a 30 ft liner and insulation kit? The insulated liner will help keep the chimney warmer and should allow the stove to be closed down more for a longer burn while keeping a good draft.
 
Ok, thanks, I'll either wait for the 35' kit to become available or find some stainless options. For ovalized pipe, I thought they built these so the cross sectional area was the same as circular pipe, hence not impacting draft? I guess I also thought this might have a little Venturi effect.

I'll be insulating the chimney for sure. Its an exterior chimney with a nice sized flue (13x18).
 
For ovalized pipe, I thought they built these so the cross sectional area was the same as circular pipe, hence not impacting draft? I guess I also thought this might have a little Venturi effect.
Yes but in order to do that you would have to go from the 6" round collar on the stove to 7" round then oval and then back to round then back to 6" It is a much better option to just cut out the throat to accommodate the 6" Also that makes for allot of joints that are always the weak point of a system..
 
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