Need some input on an insert...

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Just for my own education (I'm not reconsidering as I don't want all of the joints as mentioned), but I just did the math on 6" circle-oval (at least the one I was considering). The area of the ovalized section is 29 7/8" where as the the area of the circular section is 28 1/4". Why would one need to size up to a 7"?
 
You did your math wrong then the volume of a circle decreases when you ovalize it. The flow characteristics are also much worse. meaning that even if the volume was exactly the same you would still loose draft with an oval over round
 
Just to clarify, I'm not talking about ovalizing 6" flex.

I did rough math to ask the question, yes, which led me to be off by 1.5" sq in. But the real answer is to determine the equivalent diameter of an oblong shape (had to go back to geometry class, I'll skip the formula). Doing that with 3"x7.625" nominal size, it comes to 6.01" equivalent diameter.

I would think the chimney manufacturers would be held liable in an event if they didn't maintain the cross sectional areas of their ovalized pipe to the original diameter.
 
I would think the chimney manufacturers would be held liable in an event if they didn't maintain the cross sectional areas of their ovalized pipe to the original diameter.
What do you mean they will sell you what ever sized pipe you ask for and if you ask for an ovalized liner that is equivilant in volume to a 6" round it will be made from a 6.5" or a 7" liner depending on the smaller dimension. There is nothing for them to be held liable for. You order a size and they send it to you if it is the wrong size that is on the customer.
 
Agree with everything you said. Buy the wrong size, shame on you. And for them to make the oblong section, they in effect have to use a larger diameter to shape it. That doesn't change the effective diameter of the chimney though.

All I'm saying is if you buy something like what I attached (6" round to oval), the oval section has to maintain cross sectional area equivalent to the round section (in other words, maintain an equivalent diameter). If it doesn't, that's an engineering error and the chimney manufacturer could be held liable in an event that could be pointed to chimney design.

Buy two of these and hook em up together, one doesn't have to size up to 7", maintains the correct 6" throughout, and meet the stove requirements.
 

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  • 6-x-36-duraliner-oval-to-round-flex-chimney-relining-pipe-6dlr-36orhf-b84.jpg
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Buy two of these and hook em up together, one doesn't have to size up to 7", maintains the correct 6" throughout, and meet the stove requirements.
But it will still be a real pain to clean believe me i have to clean enough to know you want the whole thing round.
 
Well, it's ordered! However, didn't get the Drolet. They didn't have it in stock nor at the warehouse and they couldn't tell if it was backordered or just done for the season. They had the Century CW2900 though and it was $200 cheaper. By everything I can tell is the exact same insert except that it has a 5 year warranty instead of the lifetime on the Drolet. Not as many reviews here on the Century...was this a good purchase? Are there differences that I didn't pick up on?

Yes! It was a good purchase. I installed my 2900i myself in November and have been burning more or less no stop since then. I'm heating a two story colonial from a fireplace on an exterior wall (I have a 15' Rockford double wall insulated liner) in den that is adjacent to a garage and I have only heard my heat pump go on a handful of times and that was only when we hit the low teens overnight. I have the heat pump set to 68 as well.

This stove has been awesome. It's my first stove and I am loving it. I did luck into some two year old white ash and two year old white oak that was about 19% and I have zero problems heating my entire house. We did spray foam the attic over the summer and I believe that had a major impact on keeping the heat in the house. There are still leaks in the basement and the kitchen and from the other chimney which will be receiving a new air tight damper over the summer.

I consistently get 8-10 hour burn times depending on the temperature. BTW, I DO NOT have a block off plate and I'm still getting amazing performance. I fear that with a block off plate my den would turn into a sauna. As it is, it's often 78 degrees in there and the kitchen will be 72.

It's not that I don't believe in the benefits of a block off plate it's just that it too will be a summer project. It's a long story but we removed too many bricks and it's a pain in the ass trying to get the BO plate up there.

Enjoy the insert and PM me if you have any questions about it.

Cheers,

Sean
 
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