Need to save money!!

[Weldnfool]

Hello Friends,
I would like to install a wood stove down in my basement and connect it to my main trunk line for heat to save on my utility bill. What I am having trouble with is understanding how to vent it. If I run a vent out of the concrete block wall, how high am I supposed to go with it? I have google searched this in several different ways but cannot find a specific answer to at least point me in the right direction. I'm sure that has something to do with the building codes here in VA, but even still I can't find satisfactory answers.
Is there anybody from the state of Virginia that has any experience with this and would be willing to help me out?
Many thanks in advance friends.
Weldnfool

 

[blades]

Flue needs to be 3ft min higher that the highest peak inside a 10 ft radius- note: this is only a rule of thumb in that you may need to go higher depending on roof line or nearby buildings or fauna.
Tapping into your main trunk hvac line is going to require installing dampers, partly to protect Ac coil if you have one and to keep reg furnace from pumping into stove system. Also there are clearances to be dealt with for the hvac lines from a stove. These are more than what is typical present in standard construction, No plastic allowed either.

 

[Dmriggs]

Hello Friends,
I would like to install a wood stove down in my basement and connect it to my main trunk line for heat to save on my utility bill. What I am having trouble with is understanding how to vent it. If I run a vent out of the concrete block wall, how high am I supposed to go with it? I have google searched this in several different ways but cannot find a specific answer to at least point me in the right direction. I'm sure that has something to do with the building codes here in VA, but even still I can't find satisfactory answers.
Is there anybody from the state of Virginia that has any experience with this and would be willing to help me out?
Many thanks in advance friends.
Weldnfool

Hi
I would suggest looking for a wood furnace designed to attach to the main trunk first of all. These have a firebox surrounded by an exterior housing which has a blower attached for directing the heated air into the main trunk. The other thing you'll have to consider is some sort of way to keep the heated air from back tracking into the heated air vent of your existing furnace, a check valve of sorts. A friend used a piece of tin just slightly smaller in dimension than the square trunk coming from his existing furnace. He hinged it and attached a couple of stops for the tin to rest on. This keeps the heated air from the wood furnace from backing into the existing furnace. When he's gone and no wood fire going, the existing furnace, takes over. The blower will pressurize and open the this stop valve letting its heated air into the trunk. You need one for both the gas and wood furnaces, other wise the heated air will back through and into the cold air returns.
They make double wall ( through the wall thimbles ) for running stove pipe through walls. They are insulated to protect the surrounding wall interior from excessive heat of the flue gasses.
Sorry to be so long winded! A free standing stove just really isn't designed to attach to duct work. They are pretty much made to radiate heat into a room and this in turn, flows from room to room with natural convection or aided by fans directed toward the stove room. If you can't afford a new wood furnace, check Craig's. There are usually some on there but you want to look over any used wood or coal heater THOROUGHLY! You never know how it was used and abused.
Wish I could come have a look but, I'm in Indiana

 

[kennyp2339]

To answer your chimney question, the rule of thumb also NFPA is 2-3-10, 2 ft high minimum anywhere on the roof / next to roof, roof line, 3 ft higher than anything in a 10ft radius. Most stoves / furnaces require a minimum chimney height of 15ft, that seems to be the magic number for minimum good draft. Also any chimney at the roof line that is protruding greater than 4ft should have some type of brace / anchor, guy system. (this is not a big deal, sounds worse than it is)

Now to the stove, In basement installs presents a few issues, some basement installs are tougher due to negative pressure situations (effects draft) you may need an OAK so the unit can breath right, smoke coming out the door maybe an issue when the unit is in competition with the furnace, clothes dryer, bathroom room vent, or you may have great draft and never see any problems like this, just be aware there is potential, usually the tighter the house, the greater chance of having draft issues without an oak system.
The rule of thumb is always put your stove where you are the most in your home, so if you occupy your kitchen, living room, great room the most then that's were you want (if possible) the stove.
A free standing will not heat a duct system like a wood furnace, it is also a fire safety no no to have duct work plenum (air return) right over the stove, this is because it will always be in competition with your draft (weak draft on the chimney part, decay stage of fire, think burning off coal stage, could lead to excessive CO leaking into the home and making everyone sick) but also the same with a hot fire, could over time lite off the dust build up in the duct work and you can have a serious fire.
The proper thing to do is get a wood furnace which is designed to be tied with the duct work, or do a free standing stove and only expect radiant heat or heat coming from the stove blower (which if you have a home at <2500 sq ft, a free standing stove can heat the house no problem)

 

[begreen]

A wood stove can not be connected to the main heating system via ductwork. Only a furnace tested for that application can be used.