New Guy...Lot's of Questions...Buying Wood Stove

[iball]

Hey all,

I've been hastily doing research to try and find the best stove to fit my needs. I'd like to get one in before winter hits.

We have a Bi-Level home that is currently being heated with LP. There's about 1200sqft on the main floor. and the same on the lower level. The lower level is currently unfinished (this will be a slow project over the next couple years).

I'm looking to put a wood stove in the lower level to supplement my heating and hopefully lower the cost of my propane bill.

I'm currently debating on how much money to spend, where to get a stove, what kind of stove to get, etc.

My questions are:

1) Chimney - I was first thinking of just running my pipe out and then up. Is there heating benefits to running the pipe through the mainlevel?
2) Catalytic vs. Non-Catalytic?
3) Anybody purchase a cheaper stove from Menards? They currently have Century Heating Stoves for $799. This is a big cost difference to the Pacific Energy stove that i like that is $2500.
4) The location that i want my stove to be in is close to LP lines coming into my house. How obviously important is it to relocate these lines?
5) Any pointers/tips/advice that anyone can give would be great.

Looks like a great site. I'll continue to do some searching. Thanks in advance.

-Ian

 

[Elfin]

I'll give you a bump, and ask how the heated air will move from the lower to upper level... ductwork, open floor plan, staircase?

 

[BJ64]

Hi and the rest of the welcome wagon will be here shortly.
Here are my opinions.

Your questions are:
1) Chimney - I was first thinking of just running my pipe out and then up. Is there heating benefits to running the pipe through the main level?
There are several benefits to running pipe through main level. Best of all put the stove in the main level if possible.

2) Catalytic vs. Non-Catalytic?
Either one. Just do a search on this and discover debates galore
.
3) Anybody purchase a cheaper stove from Menards? They currently have Century Heating Stoves for $799. This is a big cost difference to the Pacific Energy stove that I like that is $2500.
Get the PE…If you are looking at the T6 you will be the envy of many on this forum including myself.

4) The location that I want my stove to be in is close to LP lines coming into my house. How obviously important is it to relocate these lines?
Clearances to combustibles are listed in the stove’s manual. Considering that some combustibles are more combustible that others – Relocate or shield accordingly...we like to advocate safety.

5) Any pointers/tips/advice that anyone can give would be great.
Just remember you asked for that.
Relax and enjoy. It will be time well spent!

 

[iball]

No ductwork as of right now. Staircase will help. Also planned on putting in some open floor vents to help heat rise.

 

[iball]

There are several benefits to running pipe through main level. Best of all put the stove in the main level if possible.

Stove won't be on main level (no good spot). Ideally, when the basement is finished, there will be a living area down there, and I'm hoping that the rising heat will help with the main level.

I guess my n00b question is, if I ran the pipe thru the main level, will that help radiate any heat on that level? Otherwise, I would rather run it out and up, to save cutting a a hole in the floor.

 

[begreen]

Take a look at the basic PE Summit, it sells for about $1800 and should be able to heat the home. If budget is tight, then look at the Englander 30NC (also sold as Summers Heat, TimberRidge) at HD or Lowes. I agree about putting it on the lower level of the split, especially if there is a large open stairwell connecting the levels. Getting heat to move downward is often less successful. If you can use mother nature to convect heat upward, it is much simpler and effective.

 

[rockreid]

you are late to the party this year and you will need to make a quick decision because many stove lines are sold out already this year. And installation guys are booked into next year already.

With wood stoves, you get what you pay for. Cheap stoves may not last as long without falling apart and needing rebuilding or replacement, and they may not be as efficient in how much wood they burn to heat your home. I decided on a Jotul because of the name reputation and quality.

I would pay a visit to your local stove store ASAP and have a talk with what they can do for you, because I just tried to call 2 local stove stores near me and they were not picking up the phones they are so busy.

 

[peakbagger]

If you do install ductwork between floor levels to conduct heat, keep in mind that the ducts will also conduct flames. A strong suggestion is to spend a few more bucks and buy spring loaded dampers with fusible links on the ducts, if there is a fire, the links melt and the dampers close. Graingers carries these (unfortunately Home Depot and Lowes do not appear to stock them)

 

[iball]

I can handle the cost of the stove. $1800 sounds reasonable.

Problem is, the latest quote I received for stove and install was close to $4500!!

The out and up method with a Class A chimney sounds like it would be the cheaper and easiest install method.

 

[BJ64]

you are late to the party this year and you will need to make a quick decision because many stove lines are sold out already this year. And installation guys are booked into next year already.

With wood stoves, you get what you pay for. Cheap stoves may not last as long without falling apart and needing rebuilding or replacement, and they may not be as efficient in how much wood they burn to heat your home. I decided on a Jotul because of the name reputation and quality.

I would pay a visit to your local stove store ASAP and have a talk with what they can do for you, because I just tried to call 2 local stove stores near me and they were not picking up the phones they are so busy.

Rocky is telling you to really consider a good EPA stove like the ones B Green pointed out. We are thinking that the cheaper stoves you are looking at are not very efficent (we call them "smoke dragons") and have issues with creosote in the pipe, ect, ect. I know it is more money but but there are tons of folks here that will say the stove and the pipe system is not where you want to go cheep.

You are not just fixing this year's heating issues, you are looking at an investment to last you several years if not many.

 

[Elfin]

I'll bet a lot of the cost of that install is pipe... it's shocking, isn't it?

 

[InTheRockies]

Well, I would agree that if you have the money buy a higher-end stove. I put in an inexpensive EPA-approved Century to replace the old, non-EPA approved "smoke dragon". I bought the optional blower kit, new pipe and installed it myself so my total cost was slightly under $900. I've been impressed so far--the new stove is much more efficient that the old non-EPA stove. Granted, it's not the heaviest steel, but it burns clean and is certified for EPA Phase II, just like many of the more expensive stoves. I'm in an area that mainly has softwood conifers so I wasn't sure what type of burn times I'd have since the size of the firebox on the new stove is 2 cf (the size of the firebox on the old stove was almost 4 cf). We dipped down to the low 30's last night so I had my first overnight burn. Truthfully, I was surprised that I got a 7-hour burn putting in 2 decent size rounds and 1 split of pine when I went to bed. My house was 73 when I got up and I had a large bed of red hot coals that enabled me to get a fire blazing again by simply laying a split on it. I realize the test will be winter temps. However, I've been pleased so far. Not everyone can or is willing to spend a significant amount of money on a new stove. However, be prepared for possible trade-offs. Lighter steel may mean less longevity. I'm willing to take that trade-off, especially as I believe it's not unlikely that the EPA will dictate even tougher emission standards for wood burners within the next 10 years, which may mean we'll all have to upgrade, like it or not.

 

[Chettt]

Go cheap! I have a Century from Menards and it works great. It's going in your basement and won't ever be the centerpiece of your home so spending extra for looks doesn't make sense. How much money have we all lost in the stock market recently? Go cheap!

 

[iball]

I'm considering going the cheaper route. I can't justify that large of a cost especially when i know that I won't be in this house forever (more likely around 5 years or so).

I'm really starting to like the Englander Series (Summers Heat):
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=268086-76845-50-SNC30LC&bc=c

I can get this 10% off which sounds like a good deal to me. I might even attempt to do the install myself if i go with the simple out and up method.