Intro: I bought my Heritage fall of 2007. In 2000 sf, 1880 colonial in NH, stone foundation, you get the picture, not the best house in the winter in that it has 1960s windows etc etc. Put the Heritage in a fairly large fireplace (5'w x 4'h) with 75% outside the face of the fireplace, or as far as the brick hearth would allow. Rear vented, 6" 25' single piece SS liner with cap and a 3 foot extension at bottom. I installed. The SS liner was not long enough so I guestimate my straight shot flu pipe is 28 feet up, T comes right out of the back collar. In a 10x10 terracotta flu. No insulation, just the cap's 10x10 flange on top of terracotta flue with caulking. Chimney top is 5' above peek of roof, the rest is internal to the house. Had sweep after 2nd season, a great deal of creosote at top. My gut tells me that the last 5' of the 28' is cold and thus creosote friendly. I also know, after reading endless posts here, that I was a complete post EPA and Soapstone NOVICE, I operated the stove incorrectly. For sure! But, I have learned a lot and here are my three topics.
First, I am not a fan of paying $100 per year to clean the top 10 feet. Should I insulate the liner in the old chimney flue? But let me share some more info dependent info before you comment.
Second, I am on my third baffle. I just bought one from my original dealer for $45 and I find them (the dealer) less than helpful. After reading the 600 F episode, I knew I needed to at least start with a new baffle before I tested my ability. Today, I cleaned the inside and put in my old baffle and new baffle on top of the old. I did some thoughtful experimenting and review with flashlight and glasses on and it seems to be a fair way to protect the new baffle. See these photos.
General post instal of "two baffles". I tightened up the wire a tad after the photos.
The broken area.....by the three holes it comes with.....operator error and a weakened design caused my last one to fail.
Looking for confirmation the steel leading baffle support is in correctly. I think I failed to put it in correctly last time. This time it looks right per Hearthstone's PDF on how to put in a new baffle. Comment if I have it wrong.
Third, I freeze in the room with the stove! I had a fellow wood burner over a few months back and he commented on how it just never got warm. My bias that I "bought the best" has gotten in the way in past years. This year, given the cost of heating oil and college, I decided to investigate. I would visit his house and he would be toasty warm with his cast iron Jotul F 3 CB. I made this mental comparison a few times and I was darn near ready to find an old cast iron stove and move on. Then I found this forum. I got a Rutland thermostat loaned to me and my baffle put in. I went for a correct max center stone burn by slowly closing and opening the primary in order to find the sweet spot.
On my third wood load today, post baffle replacement, I cherry picked some nice 2 year dry maple splits and did my very best. Roar got me to 300. Closed things down and finally topped out or "nursed it to" 475. I'm "coaling" now and center stone is 430. Glass is clean. Primary was shut and 475 hung in there for about 45 minutes. Opening it and closing it a few times would not get me north of 475. Obviously this is no where near 600 or even 575. And, it was more TLC than is practical in our household.
So, given issue number one, too much creosote at the top. Spotting scope view of my vent would indicate I am again getting too much creosote. But, a flu damper would make this condition worse? I gather my long stack makes me a candidate for one but my cold last 5 feet would tell me otherwise. The manual also suggested a cold stack could contribute to a under performing wood stove. I really want more heat. I tested with good fuel and got my temps. I could add I moved the Rutland to the flu and temps fell 75f but that was not a very good sampling method IMO.
In short, I have this "great stove" which has under impressed me. I am now, 5 years later, learning things I should have learned when I first got the stove. Yes, my gaskets could use replacement. That is a different post but I don't think that would have great bearing on my "center stone" max temp. I likely have some creosote build up at the cap but other than a safety issue, I don't see that limiting my "center stone" max temp. It is 74f in a 300 sf room with 7 foot ceilings. Max temp was an hour ago. I am working on sealing and insulation but.....this is not reasonable when it is only 31 out and calm.
I estimate we have burned 2.5 cords per year so a total of 13 cords have gone through the stove. Not that much compared to what I have read.
1. Do I alter my liner?
2. Is my baffle approach reasonable?
3. How do I increase my operating temp? Damper? Insulate liner? What am I missing?
Thanks for your input. I hope I provided the key information.
Thanks!
Cold in NH.
First, I am not a fan of paying $100 per year to clean the top 10 feet. Should I insulate the liner in the old chimney flue? But let me share some more info dependent info before you comment.
Second, I am on my third baffle. I just bought one from my original dealer for $45 and I find them (the dealer) less than helpful. After reading the 600 F episode, I knew I needed to at least start with a new baffle before I tested my ability. Today, I cleaned the inside and put in my old baffle and new baffle on top of the old. I did some thoughtful experimenting and review with flashlight and glasses on and it seems to be a fair way to protect the new baffle. See these photos.
General post instal of "two baffles". I tightened up the wire a tad after the photos.
The broken area.....by the three holes it comes with.....operator error and a weakened design caused my last one to fail.
Looking for confirmation the steel leading baffle support is in correctly. I think I failed to put it in correctly last time. This time it looks right per Hearthstone's PDF on how to put in a new baffle. Comment if I have it wrong.
Third, I freeze in the room with the stove! I had a fellow wood burner over a few months back and he commented on how it just never got warm. My bias that I "bought the best" has gotten in the way in past years. This year, given the cost of heating oil and college, I decided to investigate. I would visit his house and he would be toasty warm with his cast iron Jotul F 3 CB. I made this mental comparison a few times and I was darn near ready to find an old cast iron stove and move on. Then I found this forum. I got a Rutland thermostat loaned to me and my baffle put in. I went for a correct max center stone burn by slowly closing and opening the primary in order to find the sweet spot.
On my third wood load today, post baffle replacement, I cherry picked some nice 2 year dry maple splits and did my very best. Roar got me to 300. Closed things down and finally topped out or "nursed it to" 475. I'm "coaling" now and center stone is 430. Glass is clean. Primary was shut and 475 hung in there for about 45 minutes. Opening it and closing it a few times would not get me north of 475. Obviously this is no where near 600 or even 575. And, it was more TLC than is practical in our household.
So, given issue number one, too much creosote at the top. Spotting scope view of my vent would indicate I am again getting too much creosote. But, a flu damper would make this condition worse? I gather my long stack makes me a candidate for one but my cold last 5 feet would tell me otherwise. The manual also suggested a cold stack could contribute to a under performing wood stove. I really want more heat. I tested with good fuel and got my temps. I could add I moved the Rutland to the flu and temps fell 75f but that was not a very good sampling method IMO.
In short, I have this "great stove" which has under impressed me. I am now, 5 years later, learning things I should have learned when I first got the stove. Yes, my gaskets could use replacement. That is a different post but I don't think that would have great bearing on my "center stone" max temp. I likely have some creosote build up at the cap but other than a safety issue, I don't see that limiting my "center stone" max temp. It is 74f in a 300 sf room with 7 foot ceilings. Max temp was an hour ago. I am working on sealing and insulation but.....this is not reasonable when it is only 31 out and calm.
I estimate we have burned 2.5 cords per year so a total of 13 cords have gone through the stove. Not that much compared to what I have read.
1. Do I alter my liner?
2. Is my baffle approach reasonable?
3. How do I increase my operating temp? Damper? Insulate liner? What am I missing?
Thanks for your input. I hope I provided the key information.
Thanks!
Cold in NH.