New PE Super surround scratched - Update- New problem?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

bsa0021

Feeling the Heat
Oct 1, 2008
406
Ohio
I just got my new insert installed and I didn't notice until after the installer left that the surround got scratched on both sides when he slide it past the stove.
I can't decide if I should touch it up myself (I've sprayed my cast stove before) or have the installer correct it. I'm thinking I might do a better job. WWYD?
 
If it is going to be a touch-up either way, do it yourself. No one is going to be more careful doing it that you are.
 
That's what I thought. In my PE information they included a paper on the paint used (stovebright) but they don't say which finish. I have a all black stove but my can of stove bright I used on my VC says satin black which looks flat. I thought the PE finish was flat black.
 
Check the PE site but I think I remember them calling it metallic black.

Edit: I just checked and they do call it metallic black.
 
Thanks BB! Too frustrated to think. I'll have to order paint since I couldn't find metallic black anywhere around here. Also I tried the fans and man the surround vibrates with the fans on high. Fortunately, when I turn it down a smidge it's ok. Am I alone here in thinking that I should be able to buy something new and have everything right. Don't they make some type of bushing that can withstand the heat to isolate the fan from the stove.
I think I'll go split some wood so I feel better. :)
 
bsa0021 said:
Thanks BB! Too frustrated to think. I'll have to order paint since I couldn't find metallic black anywhere around here. Also I tried the fans and man the surround vibrates with the fans on high. Fortunately, when I turn it down a smidge it's ok. Am I alone here in thinking that I should be able to buy something new and have everything right. Don't they make some type of bushing that can withstand the heat to isolate the fan from the stove.
I think I'll go split some wood so I feel better. :)

Get that dealer on the phone. That is why you paid for installation. You don't need to be listening to a vibrating mass of sheet metal. I have never seen anybody report here that their PE surround vibrated with the blower on. While they are at it they can bring a can of paint and a couple of pieces of sandpaper with them.

Tell them nicely the issues and see how it goes.
 
I just noticed that the installer scratched the front of my mantel shelf as well as the surround. Now I'm starting to question his install. Now I remember watching him use what appeared to be duct tape to seal the oval liner to the round liner. I believe he pop riveted and used a screw clamp on the two liners, taped then insulated. I asked him if that tape would burn and he mentioned that the heat would only further seal the joint. This installer is supposidly a volunteer fireman so I assumed he knew what he was doing.
Is this acceptable??
 
bsa0021 said:
I just noticed that the installer scratched the front of my mantel shelf as well as the surround. Now I'm starting to question his install. Now I remember watching him use what appeared to be duct tape to seal the oval liner to the round liner. I believe he pop riveted and used a screw clamp on the two liners, taped then insulated. I asked him if that tape would burn and he mentioned that the heat would only further seal the joint. This installer is supposidly a volunteer fireman so I assumed he knew what he was doing.
Is this acceptable??

firemen are not typically up on all the proper procedure... i have had many who inspect for people, and tell them stuff alright when they aren't.. maybe he was using hvac foil tape, but why on a wood burner?
 
It looked like duct tape (grey color). He did use foil tape to secure the insulation with a wire mesh over the insulation. I should say he is a chimney sweep /installer by trade and happens to be fireman as well.
 
Even if it was duct tape, it will just melt / disintegrate after a few fires. If its covered in insulation there wont really be an oxygen for it to burn.

Not really a smart thing to do IMO, but doesn't sound like it would be much of a danger.
 
My surround on my Summit vibrates once in a while. Usually at a certain temp. Guess expansion & contraction at a certain temp makes for the right circumstance.
Actually its the trim on the edge of the surround that vibrates. I used some fire rated insualation I had left over from a donor install to pack a lil behind the trim.
 
jtp10181 said:
Even if it was duct tape, it will just melt / disintegrate after a few fires. If its covered in insulation there wont really be an oxygen for it to burn.

Not really a smart thing to do IMO, but doesn't sound like it would be much of a danger.
When I confront the dealer and installer I want to bring up all concerns at once. I didn't see anything else about the install that looked unusual compared to what I've read on this forum. If no one thinks the duct tape is a concern then I'll move on.
 
Hogwildz said:
My surround on my Summit vibrates once in a while. Usually at a certain temp. Guess expansion & contraction at a certain temp makes for the right circumstance.
Actually its the trim on the edge of the surround that vibrates. I used some fire rated insualation I had left over from a donor install to pack a lil behind the trim.

I think the surround trim on mine is vibrating but it's at room temperature. I have not built a fire in mine yet and I won't until I'm sure everything is OK with the install.
 
summit said:
bsa0021 said:
I just noticed that the installer scratched the front of my mantel shelf as well as the surround. Now I'm starting to question his install. Now I remember watching him use what appeared to be duct tape to seal the oval liner to the round liner. I believe he pop riveted and used a screw clamp on the two liners, taped then insulated. I asked him if that tape would burn and he mentioned that the heat would only further seal the joint. This installer is supposidly a volunteer fireman so I assumed he knew what he was doing.
Is this acceptable??

firemen are not typically up on all the proper procedure... i have had many who inspect for people, and tell them stuff alright when they aren't.. maybe he was using hvac foil tape, but why on a wood burner?

Agreed . . . firefighters as a rule are better off fighting chimney fires than they are hooking things up to a chimney . . . although some of the more conscientious guys who do this as a side line from their main job as firefighters do go through the steps of becoming certified and learning proper hook up techniques. No disrespect to the volunteer firefighter (I still volunteer myself in my home town), but just being a firefighter does not make one an expert . . . i.e. I made cookies yesterday . . . and this does not mean I'm a professional chef and ready to work at a four-star restaurant.

I also concur . . . sounds like HVAC foil tape . . . not a good idea for a woodstove hook up though.
 
Well, like I said earlier his main profession is chimney sweep/stove installer for past 15 years and he just happens to be a fireman...not the other way around. Being a fireman on the side I thought he might be a little more carefull. Still my question remains....do I need to have the liner redone to remove the tape? I want to bring all of my concerns about the install at once. If the liner needs redone I will probably request that he remove his liner and have someone else install the liner. If so this will be a difficult situation and I want to make sure I'm not going overboard.
Thanks!
 
Ask why a 200 degree rated, combustible product (duct tape) was put on a pipe that typically will be seeing 400-1000 degree temps? It's just wrong. Even the metal tape is only rated to 600 degrees. It has no place on a flue pipe.
 
There is no reason to have the liner replaced. Pull the surround off and take a good look at the connection. Shoot a pic of it and let us take a look. Requesting they pull it out is asking for a World War that is very likely not necessary.
 
Here are some pictures I took during the install. The last one is bad but it shows insulation covering the liner as it enters the stove and there was a screw clamp under this. If I need to I'll pull the surround but I think I will have to inch the stove out because my stone on the hearth blocks the removal. He has two metal plates under the front which I would assume are for leveling the stove and if I move it will I screw things up? The second pic shows the damper block off plate and yes there is insulation above it (part of a kit.)
 

Attachments

  • work pictures 001.jpg
    work pictures 001.jpg
    70.9 KB · Views: 262
  • work pictures 003.jpg
    work pictures 003.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 261
  • work pictures 004.jpg
    work pictures 004.jpg
    69.6 KB · Views: 260
  • work pictures 002.jpg
    work pictures 002.jpg
    65.1 KB · Views: 252
BeGreen said:
Ask why a 200 degree rated, combustible product (duct tape) was put on a pipe that typically will be seeing 400-1000 degree temps? It's just wrong. Even the metal tape is only rated to 600 degrees. It has no place on a flue pipe.

The metal or foil tape was used to secure the insulation so I don't think that was as big an issue as the duct tape.
 
Call the guy and tell him you have been looking at the pictures and wondering about the tape. Ask him what it was for and what kind of connection is under it. Just make it a friendly question and I bet, from looking at the other picks, that he did a proper job and has a good answer. A guy that did that good a job on that block off plate didn't just duct tape that liner splice.
 
BrotherBart said:
Call the guy and tell him you have been looking at the pictures and wondering about the tape. Ask him what it was for and what kind of connection is under it. Just make it a friendly question and I bet, from looking at the other picks, that he did a proper job and has a good answer. A guy that did that good a job on that block off plate didn't just duct tape that liner splice.

Good advice from a cooler head. I did see him using a pop rivet gun but I will do as you suggested.
THANKS!
 
bsa0021 said:
BeGreen said:
Ask why a 200 degree rated, combustible product (duct tape) was put on a pipe that typically will be seeing 400-1000 degree temps? It's just wrong. Even the metal tape is only rated to 600 degrees. It has no place on a flue pipe.

The metal or foil tape was used to secure the insulation so I don't think that was as big an issue as the duct tape.

The pictures help. It does look like he was doing a good job. No problem if the duct tape on the pipe connection in picture #1 was only temporary and it was taken off before connecting the stove.
 
The pipe sections were held together with stainless steel rivets and the tape was used to prevent cuts when working around these areas. The tape was not removed however.
 
So, where does this leave me? Any further comments?
Thanks!
 
Light that sucker up. The tape is inside the chimney and above the block off plate. It will last about thirty minutes the first time you get that sucker cranking and it will be bye bye tape. It isn't gonna hurt anything.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.