New pipe damper for the old stove

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

PapaDave

Minister of Fire
Feb 23, 2008
5,739
Northern MI - in the mitten
Some of you may remember that I'm still working with an older stove that's had some problems that are now repaired. However, the stove still wasn't giving burn times that would get me through the night w/o getting up at 3-4 in the morning for a reload.
I must still have an air leak (can't figure out where it would be coming in the stove), because once the stove is going well, I can completely close the air and it'll still burn up around 700 and sometimes higher. Don't usually need that kind of heat and it burns the wood too fast.
Fast forward to about 2 months ago when I got myself a damper built into a small piece of pipe (Duravent) and installed it.
I've been experimenting and can now get the stove to behave much better. Last night I put about 8 splits in the stove on a small bed of coals, got it burning well and the stove back up to about 350 with the pipe about 300 (external thermometer). Closed the pipe damper and the air all the way. Kept an eye on it for about 1/2 hr., then went to bed about 11:30.
I slept in until about 8 and got up to the house at 68, and the stove at almost 300 and it stayed there until about 8:30.
My limited math skills tell me that's 9 hrs. w/o the house getting too cold. Granted, the outside temp only went down to about 24 last night, but if this keeps working this way, I'll be a VERY happy camper this winter (I'd be happy with 7 hours).
I'll be checking the flue after the cold really cranks up to make sure I'm not getting any unusual buildup (just checked 2 days ago).
Wish me luck!
 
Dave does this stove have any sort of secondary combustion? EPA rating? Is there a baffle in it?
 
What type of stove do you have? Pre EPA ? Choking down a non epa unit will extende your burn times..but can creat creosote. A potentially dangerous situation.
 
Heater Helper said:
What type of stove do you have? Pre EPA ? Choking down a non epa unit will extende your burn times..but can creat creosote. A potentially dangerous situation.
Thats why you monitor flue temps.
 
BeGreen said:
Dave does this stove have any sort of secondary combustion? EPA rating? Is there a baffle in it?

Old Ashley step top- pre EPA. Built in '85. No 2ndary, but has a steel baffle plate.
Don't know if you remember, but this is the stove with the popped weld along the base of the back wall/bottom plate. Bartered to have an engineer friend cut out the old back and weld in a new back plate. It's almost like a new stove......in '85. :lol:
 
oldspark's got it. I'll be putting the ladder back up and keeping a REAL close eye on the flue and cap. :coolsmile:
I'll also continue messing with the damper setting as it gets colder out and can run a little hotter fire.
 
oldspark said:
Heater Helper said:
What type of stove do you have? Pre EPA ? Choking down a non epa unit will extende your burn times..but can creat creosote. A potentially dangerous situation.
Thats why you monitor flue temps.
Yep, but if it's an insert......then a little difficult.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.