New seasoning shed...install

[jj3500]

hi all,

just running this question to the well experienced readers.
i'm setting up a seasoning shed and i've been doing research on the type of footing for it.
My idea is to set up something similar to a deck used off of a house back door. so...

instead of using a poured sonotube with a 4x4 or 6x6 PT lumber, i was looking at those instant footings made of concrete. typically ~ 12" x 12" square with a taper. top side accepts either 4"x4" vertically or a 2"x4" horizontally.

given the kinds of weights the green wood has, what kind of spacing would you all recommend?
(i'm am mechanically inclined but not a carpenter by trade). What would make safe sense as centers for these precast footings?

simply asking due to cost and also, want to build it correct the first time.

thanks all.

 

[kennyp2339]

I experience the same weather patterns as you and I guess it all depends on the type of ground you want to place these one. I will be building (2) sheds this summer and will using both types of footings. In my driveway area I will use the instant footing (area is very compressed, with good drainage) in the side yard I will be digging and installing the sonotubes due to the area being soft in nature and not so good drainage.

 

[Squirrel]

I have an old 16'X8' deck sitting on 9 instant footings just on bare ground. I put about a cord of wood on one end and it sank an inch or two last year. When I replace it this year I will use sonotubes.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

How big is this deck going to be? How much wood do you plan to keep on it? Roof? Attached to house or free standing?

 

[Typ0]

OK I am not a pro but I have been thinking about this too ... I think the way to go is pour solid sonotubes below the frost line and then put the deck piers on top of them. This will serve the following purpose:

all lumber is out and away from the concrete that is in the ground.
there will be a solid non shifting footer.


This deck will last forever if you calculate the proper locations of the piers to support the type of weight you are going to support. I understand it's kind of a floating solution but keeping the lumber away from the concrete poured in the ground seems to have the most longevity IMO.

 

[CT Burner]

I built a shed this year using the pre cast footings. After about 6 months I don't see any changes or movement. However, I have my wood stacked on landscape timbers inside the shed. I did not try to build a suspended floor. As long as the wood is off the ground, you should be fine. I would not build a floor. My shed is roughly 16x8 built out of dimensional lumber with steel roof. Open sides with 2x6 slats for stability and some cribbing without restricting airflow. Holds 6 cords.

 

[jj3500]

My plan for deck is to hold 8-10 cord. I imagine it will be big. More on the long side as opposed to square (i find that the wood within the pile 2 to 3 layers off from the outside layer is less seasoned....as to why I plan on making it long)

No sides, only the structural veritical beams will be on side. Metal roof.

The location is on a hill. So one side will be extremely different. like...one foot across, and one foot down. two feet across and then two feet down. If i go with six feet wide, then my deck will be six feet above grade on the sloping side. (yes, i plan on stiffening the legs in a "K" pattern to prevent teetering over)

Stacking wood ~8' tall.

thanks for any further input.

 

[Typ0]

I built a shed this year using the pre cast footings. After about 6 months I don't see any changes or movement. However, I have my wood stacked on landscape timbers inside the shed. I did not try to build a suspended floor. As long as the wood is off the ground, you should be fine. I would not build a floor. My shed is roughly 16x8 built out of dimensional lumber with steel roof. Open sides with 2x6 slats for stability and some cribbing without restricting airflow. Holds 6 cords.

Can we see some pics?

 

[Typ0]

project sounds interesting. I'd love to stack wood to make 'walls' out of it...but I have little kids and I'm concerned about safety.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

Tough saying without seeing, but given the hill I would definitely go with dug in sono tubes 4' (or as close as you can get) deep. 10" tubes may be a little over kill but not only can footings heave they can sink as well. Ideally you'll dig down to "virgin" ground. Not being attached to the house, leaves a little room for error as IF it were to ever move on you, it would be easy enough too jack up or cut down to make straight again after any initial settling, but unlikely that would happen if done right.

As for spacing, etc.... without real dimensions to start with I would say if it were going to be 8' by 16' I would plan on framing it out of 2 x 8 pressure treated stock 16' o.c., joists running in the 8' direction, I would sit this on 6 tubes, (3 per a side) and run a double 2 x 8 in the 16' direction. Use hangers on your joists, use 6x6 PT legs, sit them on top of "post bases" that would sit on (or get bolted to) your sono tubes. Deck it all with 5/4 PT decking and space it a ways 3/4" between boards or more (not code, but itl'll allow debris to drop and air to move)

Overkill rule of thumb is 1" of board width to a foot of run. (12' joist use a 2 x 12), You could get away with less as this is for "live load".

Good site for acceptable spans, etc.. is: http://www.awc.org/publications/dca/dca6/dca6-09.pdf

If you don't build much, it may be cost / time effective to talk to a local contractor. Sounds like it's going to end up pretty big, may be able to find a small outfit that'll let you do the dirty work, then they could frame it up for you, and you can finish it. 2 guys should be able to build a frame (floor system and roof rafters) in about a day. Then you deck it and roof it....

 

[bill2500hd]

HI, the wood rack on the left was an cow feeder I think, I raised the roof and used the concrete blocks, to support the roof works so far

 

[Poindexter]

Your county agricultral extension agent should be abnle to ask a couple basic questions about where in the county you are and answer your question exactly, for free.

 

[CT Burner]

Can we see some pics?

Here you go. I too built on a hill. My soil is really rocky so digging footings was not an option.

Also, I don't see the need for a floor. Just lay some landscape timbers down and you're good. I had to sort of terrace the ground under the shed to make it level, but I wouldn't spend the $$ for the extra lumber to build a floor.

 

[kversch]

Here you go. I too built on a hill. My soil is really rocky so digging footings was not an option.

Also, I don't see the need for a floor. Just lay some landscape timbers down and you're good. I had to sort of terrace the ground under the shed to make it level, but I wouldn't spend the $$ for the extra lumber to build a floor.

I like your design thats very similar to what I hope to do this summer. only instead of using 4x4s I want to use black locust beams to have more of a country rustic look and save a little cash.

 

[billb3]

I once used 3 inch PVC pipes in lieu of sonotubes with the metal bolt you sink into the wet concrete and bracket that fits on the bottom of the 4x4 post that keeps the post dry yet anchored. Hurricane ties on the roof joists and it survived several hurricanes. Basically a patio roof with open sides.
The PVC pipes were cut-off remnants.

 

[Oldman47]

Overkill rule of thumb is 1" of board width to a foot of run. (12' joist use a 2 x 12), You could get away with less as this is for "live load".

Good site for acceptable spans, etc.. is: http://www.awc.org/publications/dca/dca6/dca6-09.pdf

Be careful using that span table. You will notice at the bottom in the notes it says it is based on 40 psf live loads. A live load is anything but the structure itself so it includes the splits resting on it. Unless you intend to keep the loads rather short you will exceed that 40 pounds per square foot number. Something else to think about is that the live load rating is based on an average. If I weigh 200 pounds but there is nobody else within a couple of feet of me it will hold me just fine. Think about how you will be loading your splits and be aware that almost all of the lumber at your local lumber yard is called SPF so use that part of the tables, not the southern yellow pine part.

 

[clark77]

Here you go. I too built on a hill. My soil is really rocky so digging footings was not an option.

Also, I don't see the need for a floor. Just lay some landscape timbers down and you're good. I had to sort of terrace the ground under the shed to make it level, but I wouldn't spend the $$ for the extra lumber to build a floor.

What are the dimensions of your wood shed down here?

 

[CT Burner]

What are the dimensions of your wood shed down here?

Each section is 8'x8'. Posts in front are 8', back posts are 6'. Rafters are 12' with 12'x2' metal roofing. 2x4" purlins on top of rafters as nailers for the roof on 2' spaces. Beams are 2x10"x8'. Siding is 2x6". All dimensional lumber, basically no cutting except the posts cut to length to account for the hill.

 

[kversch]

Each section is 8'x8'. Posts in front are 8', back posts are 6'. Rafters are 12' with 12'x2' metal roofing. 2x4" purlins on top of rafters as nailers for the roof on 2' spaces. Beams are 2x10"x8'. Siding is 2x6". All dimensional lumber, basically no cutting except the posts cut to length to account for the hill.

how manny cord does the shed hold when its full?

 

[CT Burner]

how manny cord does the shed hold when its full?

Six. Each section is 8x8 and I stack 6' high, so each section holds three cords, give or take. Easily expandable to 9, 12, etc by just building more modules.

 

[English BoB]

Nice build, how far is the wood from the house ?
If you are filling the shed with green wood- to season as you quote- it will take longer to dry packed that tight.
If its already dry, then the point is mute.

Bob

 

[CT Burner]

Nice build, how far is the wood from the house ?
If you are filling the shed with green wood- to season as you quote- it will take longer to dry packed that tight.
If its already dry, then the point is mute.

Bob

I buy my wood split and hopefully "dry" even though that's hit and miss as we all know. Shed is about 100' from the house. This is my first year burning full time. I hoped to burn 3 cords. Turns out I'm burning 6. So originally the plan was to have a year ahead, but that's not how it's going to work. I don't have room to store 12-18 cords but the wood I have gotten is pretty good.