New to fourm need some guidence on a basement pellet stove

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JCJP

New Member
Sep 19, 2016
4
New Jersey
Hello and thanks for any and all input,

I am considering installing a pellet stove in my basement. Some facts, I live in NJ and heat my home via gas forced hot air. House is your standard 1600 sq ft split level with a half basement. About 16 years ago I built a 500 square foot addition off the back of the house. I set this new section on a full basement and broke through the block from the old basement into the new. I did this to give my rug rats a area to play in. Great open space that is carpeted but otherwise unfinished. Now the old basement is kinda warm in the winter due to the fact the furnace duct work etc. are there, but the new basement is very cold. The furnace and duct work for the new addition are in the attic.

Last winter I put a kerosene stove down there and it really warmed the space up. One big issue with the kerosene stove wife went nuts with the smell. So the old kero sun went back out to the shed.

Was at a friends house who installed a pellet stove on a sun porch. was impressed with the whole concept. I guess I am looking for input on how to install a pellet stove in the basement ( block walls floor to ceiling) what is leagal, size, brands etc. Not looking to heat house just looking to make this area(500 Sq foot) warm.

Can I install and go out through the block like a dryer vent? Or is the venting more involved?

Thanks for any help
 
You CAN install a pellet burner in a basement, but you must use approved Pellet Vent for the exhaust,
from the rear of the stove to the termination cap.
There a number of different brands available & though the prices differ, they all work pretty much the same.
I like the ICC pellet vent because of the inner RTV silicone seals between the sections, but if you want to use
a less expensive brand & seal the outside with aluminum tape, go for it.
One advantage to a basement install is that you don't need to install a wall thimble where the venting passes
thru the concrete, although you can & it makes for a cleaner install.
Search for pellet stoves on-line & look for their install manuals. All the info you need will be in there.
If something needs clarification AFTER you've read the manual(s), stop back & ask here.
There is a TON of knowledge available from the membership.
 
Yes...what he said.

500 square feet should be easy to get a comfortable temperature with one of the smaller stoves available. Easy enough to go out through the cinder block, as long as you are comfortable cutting cinder block (I assume you are doing it yourself?).

The approved vent pipe is double walled, joins through a twist lock setup, easy to seal the joints with silicone tape. You'll want to follow approved codes for placement -- # of inches away from combustibles, insulated through wall, # of feet away from any window / door opening on the exterior. Most stove owners manuals will provide these numbers, city officials can also.

If you're going the legal route talk to the Building Code Department in your city / town first, they can answer any questions, pre-approve the location and install. You may want to talk to your insurance company also.

I did my own installation. The quote from a local stove company was for an even $1000.00, I spent less than $200 for the parts needed. Took less than an afternoon start to finish. Passed the subsequent city inspection without issue, and no problems (or surcharge) with homeowners insurance.

Lots of knowledge on this board...ask away whenever you have questions.

And yeah...you want to to go the OAK route, get the fresh air into the stove.
 
Thanks for the info. So I can go straight up from the stove.then turn 90 degrees out thorough the block? Once outside do I need another 90 and go up, Or can I terminate there like a dryer vent. What about brands? Small stoves use 3 inch pipe?

Thanks!
 
You can cut thru the block and use approved pellet vent pipe. If you have sheetrock, then you need a thimble. If you don't have anything over the block, then no thimble is needed. As stated above, go ahead and plan on putting in an OAK (in that case you might want to go ahead and get a thimble with the separate OAK hook up hole just to make it easier). Just make sure, however you have it going thru the wall, to use RTV to keep exhaust from infiltrating back into the basement. Also be aware of where you are placing the exhaust in relation to the main floor - some people keep a window cracked all year long, or open windows after heating up the kitchen during Thanksgiving/Christmas feasts, so you want to be cognizant of that fact.

A small stove should be able to take care of that space. Also, if you are handy, then I don't see any reason not to go with one of the cheaper stoves that are available at BBS, TSC, or local hardware stores.
 
Thanks for the info. So I can go straight up from the stove.then turn 90 degrees out thorough the block? Once outside do I need another 90 and go up, Or can I terminate there like a dryer vent. What about brands? Small stoves use 3 inch pipe?

Thanks!

Sorry, somehow I didn't see this prior to my previous statement. As long as you are far enough above the ground and away from combustibles including grass/shrubs, and pass clearances like windows, doors etc., you should be able to terminate just outside the block. Check the manual (or website) for requirements for termination.
 
I would stick a Castle Serenity in that basement.
 
Terminating the vent on a horizontal run is an approved way to do it, you should have enough vertical run to keep the smoke going out in the event of a power outage. My only concern with a horizontal termination is having it too close to the exterior siding...I've see a lot of situations where there is quite a bit of staining with the exhaust. Though you could extend the vent off the side of the house a good amount, but that may get in the way of other activities depending where it is located.

And what bogieb stated is important...you certainly don't want to let the vent get buried under a snowdrift, or a pile of blowing leaves.
 
Thanks guys - you covered most of it! The 3" vs. 4" depends on the stove manufacturer and/or the EVL of the pipe used. EVL is calculated: 90 elbow=5; 45 elbow=3; 1' horizontal=1; 1' vertical=1/2. With the proposed basement install, you will need 3 90 elbows. Off the stove to bring venting vertical, another to take it through the block wall, another to take it up to clear vegetation. 15 EVL without any vertical or horizontal calcs. On average, EVL up to 15 (20 for Harmans) for 3" venting; over should go to 4" venting. You should plan on the 4" venting.
 
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If you have bare block walls do your self a favor and insulate to keep the cold air from the blocks from getting into the basement. You will be amazed at what a difference that will make.
 
Thanks for the comments . The pipe would come through the block about 18 inches off of the ground. From I can read I would need another elbow and go up 3 feet then terminate. Most of the owners manuals I looked at want the end three feet or more off the ground. Any other recommendations for a small pellet stove? Big difference in price from Harman to some others. Why? I assume they are the Cadillac of stoves. Who are the Chevy?
 
I've seen quite a few install manuals that recommend a couple of feet ground clearance. Extra height would improve the draft, but it sounds like you have enough on the interior of the house. Depends of course on what your average snow cover is in NJ, that would be the most likely thing to possibly block the vent.

Harman are primarily built of cast iron, well cast and machined. Dealer network and parts availability is excellent, at least in my state. Parts also easily obtained through eBAY etc. Design of their products are considered to be above others.

But there are other excellent highly regarded brands out there. If you have the time draw a 100 mile radius from your home and search Craigslist to see what's out there. In northwest MA there is a regular advertiser that has a shop where he buys and sells used stoves, has a great reputation for both workmanship and price.

I've got a Harman, 12 years old, that I purchased last year through Craigslist. Spent some $$$ on repairs (I didn't test it thoroughly at time of purchase), but still came out way ahead. Was originally interested in a Ravelli. Self installed. Saved over $2000 than by buying new and having the dealer install it.
 
From manuals checked, clearance of grade is 12 to 24" but would be dependent on vegetation and average snowfall. The 3' rise in venting required on some stoves would likely be accomplished inside from the back of the stove to exit out the thimble.

For some stoves, ie England Stoves, outside air kit is mandatory. For a basement install, I would highly recommend an OAK regardless.

If this is a playroom for the kids, depending on ages, you may want to consider gating around the stove for safety...
 
Thanks for the comments. I checked Craig list and there is a boat load of used stoves in there. A fellow in Eastern PA ( about an hour from me has some stoves there and on e bay.)
 
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