Newbie... Having a hard time.

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Elisurfer4

New Member
Jan 7, 2018
64
Richmond, VA
Howdy,

I'm totally new to this whole wood burning thing. So far, I absolutely love it, but I definitely have a lot to learn... Right now, my problem is I'm having a really hard time burning a nice hot fire for a decently long amount of time. I'll explain my set up.

-Century CW2900i with blower fan (continuous variable)
-25ft Chimney lined with ovalized and insulated SS
-Burning mostly/only Liberty Bricks (see here:https://www.libertybricks.com/) because the wood I bought earlier in the season is not ready.

I measure temps with an IR gun in multiple spots and I can definitely get those stove in the 400 ranges for 30 min-1hr but then it quickly starts dropping off... The bricks will flame up good at first when I keep the door cracked then shut it with the air wide open, but when I choke it back a bit, the flames start to die down and it just burns red embers until I'm left with a lump of burnt sawdust and some coals.

If anyone has any great tips for a first timer in this particular situation, I would be so appreciative.

Cheers,

Eli
 
Surround the bricks with small strips of wood then light I start out with three bricks Stove top temps should get up to 450 easily with a low setting on your fan..
 
Aside from the bricks have you burnt a load of real wood yet? Can you scavenge some untreated lumber 2x4s ect.? Some deadfall limbs? So you can compare to see where you stand?
 
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Describe your timing. How soon do you cut back, etc?
 
It sounds like there are not enough bricks being loaded to sustain a longer burn. The easiest way to get a the bricks started burning is with a starter like a chunk of a SuperCedar. Form a stack with 3 bricks (two bottom bricks an inch apart and one on top) and put a 1/4 piece of a SuperCedar inside the gap between the bottom bricks. Light the SC. When the bricks are burning vigorously, build a tighly packed wall of bricks around the burning bricks.
https://www.libertybricks.com/how-to-instructions/
http://originalbiobricks.com/lighting
not liberty bricks, but they have an example of walling around the burning bricks
http://originalbiobricks.com/howtoburn
 
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Describe your timing. How soon do you cut back, etc?
I usually let it burn wide open for 20-30 minutes minimum, enough to really let it catch... sometimes when I cut back, the flames will keep rolling but sometimes not... sorry not too scientific there but you get the point. I've been stacking the bricks on top of each other after they get going as I hear that is best for their longevity
 
you prob need 4 or 5 bricks minimum at a time to keep it self going
 
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Is this amount of bricks that are typically being burned?
 
4 bricks are going to give up most of their heat within a few hours. Take a look at the BioBrick instructions. Maybe try burning 8 closely packed bricks for the next time you want a longer fire. If that works out better then maybe try 12 the next time. The key to a longer vs hotter burn is to stack them so that there is no space between them with the starter brick fire behind the newly stacked bricks.
 
If just burning 3 or 4 (when you don't need much heat), you need to keep the stove at a higher setting. Bottom line, you need that secondary burn system to run above 1100F to work as designed. This temperature can be held with a full load of fuel on a lower setting, but will require higher burn rate settings on smaller loads of fuel.
 
Aside from the bricks have you burnt a load of real wood yet? Can you scavenge some untreated lumber 2x4s ect.? Some deadfall limbs? So you can compare to see where you stand?
Yeah, I never burned the bricks but I'm thinking they might flame a little at first, but then start coaling and the flame might go out quicker than with cordwood..?
 
Start with three like noted above. When they are burned down but still coaling push the mess across the back of the stove. Tightly in front of and against the coals, stack two rows two bricks high in front of them. If a burn doesn't start soon enough toss a piece of fire starter in the middle of the coal bed behind the bricks. They will start to burn at the back and gradually the burn will move over the top of the bricks and down the front. At that time regulate your fire. That will get you at least a couple ol hours of good heat and then you can practice with larger brick loads.
 
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Been wondering where you were, Bro’Bart. Good to see you. Maybe I’ve just been hanging in the wrong threads.
 
Also having a decent base layer of ash will insulate the bottom of the fire box and let things get warmer
 
Thanks for the tips guys.. another thing.. I hear all these guys talking about their rooms getting up into the high 70’s-80’s... I’m getting nothing near that.. what’s goin on
 
Thanks for the tips guys.. another thing.. I hear all these guys talking about their rooms getting up into the high 70’s-80’s... I’m getting nothing near that.. what’s goin on
If you are only burning 4 bricks at a time you have not seen anything close to the potential of the stove. Do you have a good supply of split wood drying for next season? With a full load of fully seasoned, dry cordwood that insert will put out a lot of heat.
 
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If you are only burning 4 bricks at a time you have not seen anything close to the potential of the stove. Do you have a good supply of split wood drying for next season? With a full load of cordwood that insert will put out a lot of heat.
I’m working on next years load for sure. I currently have 8 bricks burning nice and slow. Stove top is reading 450 but my thermostat is still 63 in a tiny narrow living room
 
Is the blower on (low speed)?
 
Never ran this stove, or any non-cat, but 450 seems crazy low, compared to the temps I see most non-cat guys posting. Isn’t 650F more typical?
 
Never ran this stove, or any non-cat, but 450 seems crazy low, compared to the temps I see most non-cat guys posting. Isn’t 650F more typical?
I'm talking about stove top temps not flue gas temps. If you look at a magnetic thermo, the ideal temp is 400-500, 650 would be in the danger zone technically.
 
I'm talking about stove top temps not flue gas temps. If you look at a magnetic thermo, the ideal temp is 400-500, 650 would be in the danger zone technically.

400 -500 on a stovetop thermometer? That seems unrealistic and unlikely to give you a secondary burn. What does your manual specify for overfiring (hopefully something more helpful than “glowing”? Our insert specified 800 degrees F as overfiring, but that little stove loved to cruise in the 700s. It did it for years with no problems.

We used an infrared thermometer to measure temperatures on the stove top, so I don’t have a lot of experience with the burn zones listed on thermometers. 400 - 500 really doesn’t sound like stovetop temps. If creosote condenses in your stack at 212, I’d be worried about getting creosote in your liner.
 
I tried searching without a lot of success to find some professional guidance on stovetop temps, but I guess I chose the wrong search terms. @bholler and @Squisher, can you help out here, please? Thanks.