newbie needs expert input on chimney to see if future post is "my deck is on fire!!!"

[pencilneck]

I'm looking to get a wood burning stove and after digging though here, found several post of people happy with the Englander NC30, and a few confirmed hits that overstock stove actually shipped units, so I feel pretty good getting ready to make my purchase.

Here is where I want to install it in my basement:

I want to put it below the wall outlet, away from the wall itself. If needed, I can move the outlet without issue. There is a concrete slab under the carpet, plan on cutting out a section of carpet putting down tile for the stove to rest on. The ceiling is about 10 foot. I'm thinking of making the hole 3 feet down from the top. Now here is where the issue is... on the other side of the wall is this:

The deck is about 12ft deep. Figure 3 feet down from the top of the brick line for the hole. Now I shouldn't have any problem getting at least 1/2" rise per foot and still have a good gap between the deck and pipe. I could even go 1" rise per foot and still be about 24" away from the deck at the end of it. Once it reaches to the end of the deck, turn up and extend maybe a foot or 2 beyond the rail (5 or 6 foot of vertical) and then cap it. I would remove the vertical part during warm weather so there wouldn't be an odd chimney there at the deck. Would also give me a chance to clean it out every season.

Do I stand any kind of chance of getting a good draft for the stove? Is this a major fire risk in the making?

Thank you for any input you can offer.

 

[jeff_t]

Waaaay too much horizontal. Can you go thru the deck? Class A pipe only needs two inches of clearance. Be best to go straight up and keep it all inside, but that's not always an option.

 

[logger]

You will have major draft issues the way you intend to install. As the above poster noted, you'll have to go through the deck, but it should be cheaper and involve less pipe than your original plan. Good luck. The Englander should put out some great heat for you.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

I doubt much risk of fire.. as the stove probably won't run at all. I think the minimum chimney length for that stove (all else being perfect in the install) is 15'. Add a couple elbows and 14' of horizontal run.. you would probably need a 40' chimney, and then you probably still couldn't get it warm enough to draw right anyways.

The answer is to come out, straight up, through the deck and follow manufacturers requirement for clearance from the roof line. You can build a chase around the chimney to hide it and protect it if you feel the need.

 

[pencilneck]

OK, so plan A is a bust... stupid facts getting in the way of what I want to do....

So plan B is looking like the holy deck option. This would mean I would have to put the stove would 9 feet over, not a big deal. It would be between 2 windows now.

On the inside, the concrete block wall is 2 feet wide. The bigger issue is the joist of the deck, I guess the chimney pipe can be at a slight angle, to the right.

The door at end of the deck is lined up with the left window below the deck. This is why I want the chimney to tilt to the right as it goes towards the deck, then verticial once though the deck. I'd like the chimney to come out the dead center between the windows, and then to the right side of the joist. Would a small angle like that be an issue?

Looks like the top of the chimney would need to be 2ft higher than the roof, would I be best to have the chimney also angle a bit away from the house and be a straight pipe once it is though the deck, or stay close to the wall, then kink out at the roof line?

Thanks again for your input.

 

[pen]

The angle wouldn't be an issue. However, that joist could be cut and the area for the chimney boxed in.

pen

 

[shawneyboy]

Also I think you are mistaken about the height. You want the flue to be at least 3 feet above the highest roof penetration AND at least 2 feet above any obstruction within 10 feet, this includes the roof itself. So when you say above the roof do you mean the peak ?

 

[NH_Wood]

The angle wouldn't be an issue. However, that joist could be cut and the area for the chimney boxed in.

pen

+1, I'd modify the joist and run straight up. Cheers!

 

[begreen]

Next question... how will the soffit be handled? (and what's that big box over the door for?)

Will the basement walls be insulated sometime very soon? If not, figure up to a third of the wood consumed will be heating outdoors.

 

[Renovation]

The angle wouldn't be an issue. However, that joist could be cut and the area for the chimney boxed in.

pen

+1, I'd modify the joist and run straight up. Cheers!

+2 Cutting and boxing that joist is no big deal.

 

[Swedishchef]

Just my 2 cents worth...

I would put the chimney through the wall at a standard height (6 feet), then straight through the deck. I did the exact same thing on my install and it works great. I made sure that I wasn't isntalling the chimney in line with a window upstairs and I am super happy about how it turned out.

Just go straight up along the foundation wall, through the deck (adjust floor joists if necessary, try avoiding bends and kinks), then straight up between the door and window. Make sure there's no roof within 10 feet of the top of the chimney (what's the pitch of your roof???)

Andrew

 

[dougand3]

As BG says, what about soffit? That will be a tweaking pain to make right. Whats inside the deck door-window-deck door? Easiest and cheapest would be find a straight shot from roof trusses, ceiling joists and floor joists down to basement that is a foot out from that deck wall between a deck window and deck door. Find where the NC-30 flue will be to see that is a good location. 12-14" chase boxes in deck level chimney to ceiling. You have a straight inside chimney that should draft great. But you may say or hear..."I hain't putting no 8 foot tall box agin this wall!" And to a probable Vol...War Eagle!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Next question... how will the soffit be handled? (and what's that big box over the door for?)

Will the basement walls be insulated sometime very soon? If not, figure up to a third of the wood consumed will be heating outdoors.

I think this should be one of your first considerations even before the chimney. I think BeGreen was conservative on his estimate of losing up to 1/3 of your heat. That cement block wall will suck up the heat almost as fast as the stove puts it out. It really needs to be insulated if you intend to burn wood down there.

Also, be sure to put a tee when the chimney bends up as this will make cleaning the chimney a lot easier.

 

[pencilneck]

I will be finishing the basement in the future. I'm first painting it with Drylok sealer which sucks to do, then frame - insulate - sheet rock is the plan. I'm starting to rethink about making the chimney a DIY job for 2 reasons (3 if you factor in how lazy I can be)... safety and efficiency. If I screw up on those 2 items, I could be out of a nice house or just a $1000 for a smokey paper weight. As a highly skilled automotive mechanic, I've seen the poor results of people not being smart enough to stop trying to do a project out of their league. I'm going to play it smart and look into getting the pros in here.

The odd box outside the house is for a poo-pump. We are connected to a sewer line, but the pipe runs over a hill. There is a small storage tank with a pump, so s**t can flow uphill, then back to it's normal down hill flow to the sewer system.

The input everyone gave has been very helpful and I thank you for taking the time to point out things I just didn't know.... I wanted to gather facts and figures... I got them. I'd offer you a beer, but I'm drinking the last one here.

 

[ansehnlich1]

I'd consider putting the woodstove on the main floor of the home and running the stovepipe straight up inside the envelope of the home. That would provide for the optimum burning situation.

If you insist on the woodstove being in the basement consider the possiblilty of locating it so that you could install the chimney inside the envelope of the home.

Knowing what I know now I would do everything possible to avoid a wall pass through and an outside chimney.

There ya go I said it!

 

[shawneyboy]

I will be finishing the basement in the future. I'm first painting it with Drylok sealer which sucks to do, then frame - insulate - sheet rock is the plan. I'm starting to rethink about making the chimney a DIY job for 2 reasons (3 if you factor in how lazy I can be)... safety and efficiency. If I screw up on those 2 items, I could be out of a nice house or just a $1000 for a smokey paper weight. As a highly skilled automotive mechanic, I've seen the poor results of people not being smart enough to stop trying to do a project out of their league. I'm going to play it smart and look into getting the pros in here.

The odd box outside the house is for a poo-pump. We are connected to a sewer line, but the pipe runs over a hill. There is a small storage tank with a pump, so s**t can flow uphill, then back to it's normal down hill flow to the sewer system.

The input everyone gave has been very helpful and I thank you for taking the time to point out things I just didn't know.... I wanted to gather facts and figures... I got them. I'd offer you a beer, but I'm drinking the last one here.

Speaking of beer, I think I will join you. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH