No fan on low manual setting.

[green wood]

Are u saying....I'll use less pellots running on med vs low?....

Wow I didn't realize they need that much care. Like I mentioned. We've just burned our first ton...and thats between two stoves. That's only 25bags in the quadrafire.

 

[Ssyko]

no im just saying 99% of pellet stoves burn their best on a medium setting. you would get more heat out of the pellets you do burn. going by the pic of your stove im thinking its probably needing a cleaning. black soot is a sign of a poor combustion.

 

[green wood]

Lol. I knew u guys would think that. I cleaned out my clean out in my exhaust pipe and it spilled when I cracked it open Vacuum cleaner filter is junk so I didn't vac up the residue yet. New filter ordered from Amazon. Hasn't arrived. Stove is clean!
Unhooked it ... trailered it 20 miles to stove store and paid them to completely clean it. 25 bags burned through this stove since start of winter....

 

[kappel15]

If you read my post, you will see I agreed with you. If stove is running and fan is not, it has nothing to do with a tstat or not. I have seen the green light, which means stove has hit 200* blink on and off on low setting, with fire fluctuating. Once again I would recommend setting your flame height with feed adjusting rod, to correct amount. This may increase fire, keeping conv. fan running. Or you can just jump the #1 snap disc wires together, and fan will run constantly. Just be careful as there is power in one wire all the time. And with a tstat you can make it manual by running on low and setting tstat all the way up so stove can't reach temp. kap

 

[green wood]

Glass looks like that because as stated way earlier in thread. My girl didn't clean ash pan and it backed up catching hopper pellots on fire . Just haven't cleaned the glass

 

[Ssyko]

I was going by the glass, it tells how the stove is burning. ok i'll leave this in Kap's hands.

 

[green wood]

24 hours. After I adjusted the rod in the hopper no issues so far. Now if I could just find that vacuum switch. Can't seem to find the exact type that's in our stove. It's rectangular...not round like I've found. ??

 

[kappel15]

It could have been replaced at some time. They are now round and plastic. It has a rubber hose going from it to the auger tube. You should be able to google an owners manual or a pic of it. kap

 

[green wood]

Is there a brand to stick with?. I see a big swing in pricing. And have read people having issues with aftermarket parts these days.

 

[green wood]

Our vaccum box

 

[kappel15]

That is the original one. I would pull the vac hose, and blow thru it to make sure it is clear of debris, and then use a stiff pc of wire or paper clip, and poke it thru the nipple on auger tube to make sure it is clear of debris. Then reassemble to see if it still works. I would stick with a quad replacement. As you said, after market has a bad name, and they need to be set to what your stove needs. kap

 

[green wood]

This ? How do we know if we're getting factory parts though

 

[kappel15]

They usually say OEM or after market. Looks like the one I just got for my Santa Fe. kap

 

[green wood]

Here's something crazy we just learn this morning the temperature dropped quite a bit so I bumped it from low setting which it's been running perfect on for over 24 hours to the medium setting as soon as I went from low to medium my fire petered out to a very small flame...and my blower stopped. I had to reset for it to fire back to normal. Odd

 

[kappel15]

Good word for it

 

[green wood]

Could that be from no vaccum being hooked up? Or is it because we hard wired (bypassed)... The vacuum switch?

 

[kappel15]

No. Got me scratching my head tho

 

[green wood]

I just found a identical direct replacement switch from Cleveland controls. On its way. I will take advice and clean out stove end where tubing connects. I already blew air through ...not into switch though like recommended not too!!

 

[stovelark]

Whoa whoa- the remote you have is a smart stat r/c that was available (still is) for Quads. I think there are a couple of things going on here.
First, the smart stat can be an on/off remote or run in thermostat mode too. Quads know one thing- you're asking for heat or not asking for heat via a thermostat, switch whatever you want to start it with. I do agree with Kap tho, on low you are not generating enough heat to always keep snap disc 1 closed, to turn on the convection blower. Put you stove on high, let it get hot and see how far the flames are above the burnpot top, should be 4-6 inches on the average (like kap said, get a manual). The quad site has old manuals available to look at. That control box is an oldie. Keep the burnpot clean, clean the exhaust path, adjust your feed rate properly and it sounds like you'll be all set.
BTW, espec listen to Kap, he is a quad guy... Happy new year all..

 

[green wood]

So.....the new cleveland controls vacuum switch came today. I will attempt to change it next warm up. Been multiple days and the stove is staying lit and the room blower hasnt quit once. Yippeeee I read on this forum as of late that i should have a 4 to 6 " flame above? my burn pot? We do not ....the flame is barely reaching above the pot rim. so we are not sure what thats about. another issue? Again...we leave this stove on low, and on manual setting...not using the remote control thermostat. The heat seems ok with this flame...so im not sure why folks are saying it should be higher. Maybe they meant that because there stoves are running on med or high?

also we noticed and this may be the way its always been...but it seems like our auger is kickin on every 5 seconds on the low setting. is this normal. You can hear it , its noisy...and if you put your finger on the end of the auger motor you can feel the center spin. Theres like a pin in the middle that turns..every 5 seconds.

 

[kappel15]

4 to 6 inches over pot, is when stove is running on high. And timing on auger seems right. kap

 

[green wood]

4 to 6 inches over pot, is when stove is running on high. And timing on auger seems right. kap

Thank you kap

 

[green wood]

Bringing this back to life sadly.....Installed new vacuum switch and all was well for about a week...week n half. Bitter cold here. stoves been on all hours. Woke up yesterday 52 in the house. 14 degrees outside. stove off. thought we had a auger jam so i took the new auger out...checked it out. put back in....nothing . what i did notice and im not sure if this i normal...but i could barely spin the auger itself holding it by hand. Like the bearing was stiff or going bad where the auger itself goes through that magnet looking piece on the cage that fastens to the stove. That bearing could of smoked my new auger motor? im thinking.....

i got on here and started reading.... said i could test run the auger motor out of the stove long as i bypassed the vacuum switch.......keep in mind i kept my original auger motor as a back up. ( i installed a new motor last spring thinking that was a previous issue, i was told by the stove repair guy it wasnt....stove was just too dirty behind the bricks., setting off the snap disc) so i decided to leave the new motor in there.... this morning i jump the vacuum switch...plug stove back into 110. hit the reset, box blinks 6 blue flashes...but nothing happens.......on either motor...tried them both as i read doing this the auger should turn for several seconds to feed pot.

AND the ignitor isnt working now It did the morning i tried to restart it after cleaning out auger. very confusing here. just seems to keep snow balling on us. could the bearing going bad in the auger assembly possibly create another issue?????

Please any help would be greatly appreciated...its super cold out here for the next few days...

 

[green wood]

BTW....bench tested both augers....both turn. Now what!? I cant believe my control box just crapped out of the thin air. I was very careful always unplugging it when messing with stove. and i run the power on a surge protector.

 

[Ssyko]

If it were mine i would remove the lil black box, put a jumper on the thermostat connector and try running it. Just to make sure the box is not a contributor to an electronic hiccup.