OAK on Summit/T6 - How's it hook up?

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moosetrek

Minister of Fire
Oct 22, 2008
575
CA in the Sierras
OK so I have an OAK for my T6; but I'm looking for advice on how to install it. Everything is good until I get to the stove part; there is no way to connect a 4" elbow into the hole on the bottom because the stove is too close to the floor. I currently have a 3" flex hose sealed to a 4" starting collar and sealed with aluminum tape. Bugging me as I like to do it right.

How has everyone gotten theirs hooked up and sealed to the stove? Thanks.
 
put it into the hole on the rear of the leg adaptor
 
There's another hole? The only one I found was on the bottom... Going to RTFM now.
 
Looked in the manual, the leg adapter kit for the Summit has a second hole on the rear. The adapter for the T6 (part#17) has no such hole?
 
moose,

don't do it!

look thru the threads within the past 2 or 3 months with the summit OAK issues, the connection of the OAK to the stove is not sealed airtight, so, any positive air pressure in the OAK that is greater than the air intake into the stove will result in cold air rushing into your home.

IMHO, you will most likely end up plugging the hole you just created in your floor/wall for your OAK. OR stongly consider the outside location of the air intake as to minimize the effects of wind building positive pressure etc at the location of the intake.
 
We already have the OAK, left over from our 30NC. It's about 25' of 4" then 10-12' of 3" to the stove. Seems to draw fine, but I did notice the PE is not as sealed as the Englander was - that was an airtight (mostly) seal, and helped with the long run of pipe. It's all below the level of the stove, and we don't really have a cold air intrusion problem, but as we're tightening up the house I'd like to keep the OAK hooked up; I just can't figure out how to do it without a vertical hole through our tile hearth (not happening).
 
moose,

So with your OAK unconnected, there isn't a stream of cold air coming in thru the pipe? With your winds, I would think that the OAK could at times be blowing massive amounts of outside air into the home.

I think it was a user named "Ribs" and possibly a few others, with complaints of cold air coming out by the primary air control lever.
 
No cold air, the intake is under an exterior porch and protected from wind. I had it laying on the floor for the past couple weeks and no cold air probs; though it was under the stove so maybe I just didn't notice. I'll check and get back.
 
We've hooked up many, many OAK's to Alderlea T6's (and everything else we've installed for the last several years, as OAK's are mandatory in our State), and have learned that cold air intrusion need not be an issue, with a little pre-planning. You want to locate the intake in a protected area (like a ventilated crawlspace) if possible. If not, locate it on the leeward side of the house.

Moose, I believe we've spoken on the phone. Either that, or T6 owners with uninsulated houses and 36 sq.ft. of loose casement windows are more popular in WY than one would think.

For your down-and-out-the-back OA connection, take a 4" elbow and cut about an inch of the crimp off it, then crimp what remains. Paint it black, stick it in with a bead of hi-temp silicone, and off you go.
 
moosetrek said:
OK so I have an OAK for my T6; but I'm looking for advice on how to install it. Everything is good until I get to the stove part; there is no way to connect a 4" elbow into the hole on the bottom because the stove is too close to the floor. I currently have a 3" flex hose sealed to a 4" starting collar and sealed with aluminum tape. Bugging me as I like to do it right.

How has everyone gotten theirs hooked up and sealed to the stove? Thanks.


Um... correct me if I am wrong, but isn't an outside air kit beneficial primarily when you have a tight home. If that is the case, we have clearly established your home would not be defined as 'tight'.
 
Hey now! It's getting tighter... I can close the windows and the curtains don't move quite as fast... Actually, we put it in with the first stove and since it was already hard-plumbed through the floor and basement we kept it. Probably not necessary, but any warm air we can keep in the room is a bonus...

And yes, Chimneysweep, it is the same one. Working on the windows, and thanks as always for the excellent advice. The last conneciton involved removing the first joint on the elbow, then sealing with aluminum tape. It just didn't seem like the stove design was conducive to a not-through-the floor install. But she's purring away now, blower on and easily the overcoming 15-20 mph breeze.
 
My apologies to the original poster for going a little off topic.
OAK = Outside Air Kit.
Can I get one for my Pacific Energy Summit Classic?
 
mbcijim said:
My apologies to the original poster for going a little off topic.
OAK = Outside Air Kit.
Can I get one for my Pacific Energy Summit Classic?

Yes.
 
thechimneysweep said:
We've hooked up many, many OAK's to Alderlea T6's (and everything else we've installed for the last several years, as OAK's are mandatory in our State), and have learned that cold air intrusion need not be an issue, with a little pre-planning. You want to locate the intake in a protected area (like a venilated crawlspace) if possible. If not, locate it on the leeward side of the house.

I bet the mandate for OAK's in (?washington/oregon?) makes for some rather difficult installs. How would an OAK be run to a centally located stove on a slab? Curious if their are regulations for maximum length of the run of OAK pipe and dips etc? Are there OAK's that run within a chimney liner similar to a B-vent gas stove?
 
In the case of new construction, the OA intake pipe is often poured right into the slab. In existing houses on slabs with central chimneys the homeowner or installing company can petition the code authority for a variance allowing installation of a passive air makeup kit like the one shown at http://www.condar.com/asv.html in the nearest outside wall.

Are there OAK’s that run within a chimney liner similar to a B-vent gas stove?

You must be thinking about Direct Vent gas stoves, which use co-axial pipe that allows the gas stove to draw combustion air between the two layers. Code doesn't allow wood stoves to draw combustion air down the chimney, or from anywhere above the stove. OAKs must draw air horizontally, or from below.

Our code inspectors will allow us to run OA intake pipe that is the same size as the intake on the stove up to 20 feet. For longer runs, we must upsize one size. For example, the T6 has a 4" intake hole: if our terminus is 20' away, we're allowed to run 4" pipe. If the run is more than 20', we must use 5" pipe.
 
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