Olsberg

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jckreig

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
2
East Tennessee
I am looking for some advice regarding this stove that I want to hook up in my home. It is an Olsberg, made in Germany, burns lignite briquettes and wood (per the manufacturer), manufactured in 1976. The firebox is small and I plan to burn wood in it, so I will be cutting mini-logs or chunks of wood to feed into the small door. It does have a large access door on top, but I assumed it would only be for cleaning or assembling a starter fire. Here is all info from the back plate:
stove type 11/482/1
din-reg-nr 770L60D
heating capacity 90/65/50 (m3)
nominal capacity 5,85000 (Kw)
serial num 4L 11 41727

This stove vents out the back and here are the problems. The outside diameter of the exit pipe is 4 5/8, inside would be around 4 1/2 as the walls of it are around 1/16th thick (I did not measure the inside exactly). I have to vent outside the wall of the upstairs of the house (walk out basement in back and walk out to grade upper level in front). I have no choice on this as there is a very low pitch rubber roof above and I am not going through it. The information I seek is what are my solutions for pipe, as I have not seen pipe in this diameter? Could I have a transition piece fabricated locally to get it to a standard pipe size? What would be the specs on the transition piece in regard to metal thickness? Could I jump to just 6" pipe for the rest of the run? I want the stove as close to the wall as possible. I understand I need a "T" cleanout, but do I need double wall pipe for the entire exterior run? It will have a small eave that it will pass within 6 inches or so from the outside, so I thought the double wall might be for the best, as well as for a better draw (is that correct?). If this stove is set up in a corner of a room, what would you estimate to be the side clearance and where could I get insulators and some sort of metal to reduce the clearance demands. I could find this online, but I'm not sure what it is called. I would like to spend the least amount of money on the chimney while it still be safe. I know the draw won't possibly be ideal, but we are going to see how it works. Thank you for your advice.
 

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Welcome to the forum, JC. Generally, if you don't have manufacturer specs - you need 36" clearance to combustibles to satisfy codes and insurance. Plus many manufacturers allow tighter clearances if you build a noncombustible wall surrounding stove (metal 2x4s, cement board, tile with 2" airspace). Is this a family heirloom you don't want to part with?
 
Not an heirloom, but the stove was free and I've been dying to get into heating some of my home with wood but I do not have the money to spend on the nice stoves. This stove has gaskets and I don't see much junk made in Germany, so I'm hoping it will be a decent stove. Being that it has a spacer plate on the back of the stove (galvanized), what do you think the spacing would be? I do intend to do some sort of reflector around the stove, but the studs would be wood. Anything else I can accomplish over that such as cement board, tile, etc. Would it work to use some insulators over the wooden studs and then cement board and tile over that?
 
Even if you have an air space shield - I know of no rules/regs that reduce the 36" clearance for undocumented/untested stoves. (which this stove is w/o a paper trail). And in a room - that is a LONG way. I understand this stove was free but this could become the most expensive free stove in the world - cut corners on clearances, then house fire, then insurance says...."Woah, here!" I started down the cheap boxwood stove route before...and then after reading and learning about stoves - went with an EPA stove and manufacturer with clear specs. I've been where you are and I bet I'm cheaper than you are! After I read and gained knowledge about stoves, pipes, chimneys....I abandoned the free/cheap stove route.

Some points.

A new EPA stove is more efficient - uses less wood and pollutes much less than your "smoke dragon" will.
Firebox will be decent size - sounds like you have a tiny firebox = more cutting for you.
Specific instructions come with new stove to self install safely.
Pricewise - check your lowes and homedepot. An Englander NC13 (or Summers Heat brand name) can be had for $399 clearance price to $799 full price.
A self install kit - Selkirk Supervent is $350. Read about install here - http://www.selkirkcorp.com/supervent/ Add Class A chimney (thru attic and roof) at ~$24/ft. Single wall stove pipe (up to ceiling junction) is ~4/ft. So, a safe/in code chimney system will cost a minimum of $650.

Also, another less expensive stove place is Northern Tool - there is one northeast of Chattanooga on I-75, if you are near there.
 
Hiya, this is an old thread so probably not checked too regularly now but still ......I own and run a seventies Olsberg of this design .They are truly fabulous burners ,thermostat control , baffle ,hot plate and german craftmanship make this model a joy to run . The picture shows more than one ,I m very jealous ,I d love another ! They are suprisingly efficient and produce very little ash ,I ve only ever burnt wood in mine coz we dont have a tradition of Lignite in the home in the UK but it was used for anthracite for many years before I acquired it .Do u have the Owners manual,it sounds like you do from your post ,I d love to hear what they say .I ve not found spares for it yet online .I suspect I ll be taking a trip to germany to scour the fleamarkets for fires ,they dont appear to be sought after items in germany but theres still plenty of them about .The top door u describe is a hotplate ,I dont think it was designed to be opened but some german models were(the coal burners ) .Many german stovemakers still offer wood/lgnite kaminofens in the 4-8kw output range .I have the 4kw little brother to the pictured fire and it is quite simply the easiest fire I have ever used .
 
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