Opel fireplace as a serious whole house heater?

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daleeper

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 18, 2006
556
NC MO
I have in the past never considered a zero clearance fireplace as a heat source because I thought they were a poor substitute for both a freestanding stove and fireplace. I thought I wanted a Blaze King Ultra to replace my old Earth Stove in the basement, but have been reading on fireplaces that allow connection to duct work and find them interesting and might work better at what I have been trying to accomplish in our house.

We have the current stove in the basement in a room about 24' x 18' with an 8" flue that goes straight up through the first level and out the roof. The air does not circulate well through the house, so the room the stove is in gets hot. I do like having the stove in the basement to keep the mess downstairs, and the furnace does not get the basement warm enough on it's own. I have tried several things, and made improvements, but not with total satisfaction. We burn 24/7 from Thanksgiving through March, and have high efficiency lp gas and a ground source heat pump as backup but try not to use them too much. The house is a ranch style 28'x48' with full basement.

The features that I want in a new wood heat system is the ability to run low and slow for the shoulder season (catalytic combuster), big enough firebox for 10-12 hour burns, thermostatic control of the primary air, and a glass door. The blaze kings answer all those plus sturdy construction, but it will not really help in moving the air through the house and solve the excess heat in the room the stove is in. It also appears that the RSF Opel also has these features, plus should be able to move the air where it is needed. An add-on furnace is not really what I want either. I at first thought that I would install it upstairs as a second wood stove, but my wife balked, and said to put it in the basement in place of the current wood stove. The more I got to thinking about it, the fewer reasons I can find to argue with her against it.

I am not familiar with these at all, so I have questions:

Will the opel with the optional cat burn low and slow cleanly? Does it have a big enough firebox for overnight burns when cold? How effective are the optional air duct systems into the central air system as far as keeping the room the fireplace is in reasonably warm yet send heat to the rest of the house. Yes I have searched and read all the posts on the opel, a lot of good reading, but I don't really think I have seen anything on a direct replacement of a freestanding stove with an opel. How good is the construction of the stove itself, does it have a good sturdy firebox?

In other words, would this opel be a better option in my application of heating the basement along with moving heat upstairs through the central air duct-work verses just upgrading my current stove?
 
daleeper,
I've been watching your post for a week now, hoping very much that you would get some replies from folks that actually have and use an RSF Opel fireplace tied to their ductwork. It's unfortunate no one has replied, I'd very much like the input also. I'm in a similar situation. I am about 99% sure I am going with the RSF Opel fireplace myself and I'm definately counting on it to do a great job. I have a two story 2500 sq ft home.

I can tell you the couple guys I have talked with that have the RSF fireplaces like them very much. Some of the things I have heard is how much heat they put out and that these guys are getting good long overnight burns after they get it figured out and broke in. I've also talked with a few guys that were comparing the RSF Opel to other fireplaces, like the Quad 7100, and while they went with the Quad, more than one has made the comment they like their Quad 7100 but now wished they had gone with the Opel. I'm as confident as a guy can be I'll be making the right decision, but if there is anyone out there that owns and uses an RSF Opel fireplace, like daleeper, I (and others I am sure) would also love to hear from you on any pro's and cons and your experiences of going with the RSF Opel.
Thank you...
 
Thanks guys for bringing this back up to the top, I was about to give up on anyone responding at all, but didn't want to bump if nobody was interested.

I have searched here and read lots of positive posts about the Opel, KozyHeat, BIS, and QuadraFire units. I may not be clear on my questions, and I may not really know how to ask.

What I am trying to get opinions/experience on how much control of the heat output in relation to the room the fireplace is in, verses heat sent to other rooms/ central duct system. Can one of these high efficiency fireplaces be installed in one room and expect to be able to move 50% or more of the heat output into other areas of the house, like you can a furnace?

The second question relates directly to the catalytic system on the Opel specifically that I don't see answered specifically. In combination with the thermostatic air control, will the fireplace burn low and slow similar to a stove like the Blaze King? There seem to be mixed opinions on the catalytic kit on the Opel on whether it is worth the money, but I think most opinions are based on the fact they don't like/want a cat. I will have a cat in my next heating unit, is the one in an Opel effective and efficient?
 
The Opel fireplace burns great for all temps the forced heat system I think is the only way to go when you got more than one level like mine my basement is around 800 sq ft and my main floor is thesame upstairs is 900 sq ft fireplace is located on the main level I dump the heat downstairs an dit works perfect
 
One downfall.......
RSF requires that you use their brand of chimney - NO SUBSTITUTES!!
I believe you have to use 7" flue w/ the Opel, which I know is very pricey.

On the other hand, I'm considering purchasing an RSF fireplace also.....

Rob
 
Daleeper,
Not to get OT here, but is it possible your system of moving the heat upstairs is just not optimal as it stands? If so, this might be something you also want to look into a little more. Posting the basement and first floor floor-plan along with stove and fan(s) locations might be helpful. Getting the heat upstairs can sometimes be a art, but once you have it figured-out, it can make a huge difference...
 
I was going to ask the same question as Wet1. I have a BIS Tradition and it heats my main floor and 2nd floor on its own without help. Its a 3,200 SF house too. I have the ducting option for my fireplace and am still tweaking the installation so that I can also heat my basement. Dean
 
Wet1 said:
Daleeper,
Not to get OT here, but is it possible your system of moving the heat upstairs is just not optimal as it stands? If so, this might be something you also want to look into a little more. Posting the basement and first floor floor-plan along with stove and fan(s) locations might be helpful. Getting the heat upstairs can sometimes be a art, but once you have it figured-out, it can make a huge difference...

Wet1, air movement through the house is not optimal for a wood stove installation. That is why I have asked if the Opel with its option of hookup to the central air ductwork can move serious heat.

When we built the house, the stove was installed as backup and emergency heat. I assumed hot air would rise to the first floor, and it does, but not enough, and we have built some barriers in along the way.

What is the best way of making a floor-plan and posting it to this group? I would be open to suggestions on improving heat distribution, as it doesn't look like the Opel is very cost effective for our situation.

Someone tell me why code allows the Opel to be hooked to the central air duct, yet not be able to put a hood over a wood stove and vent that throughout the house? Both units are sealed the same aren't they?
 
Just to let everyone know that the blower for the Opel fireplaces have the highest and most powerful blower for central heat 635cfm. I lit my fire this morning it was 69F in the house I never really knew how much wood I could pack into it seeing as it is a new unit I phoned Quebec rfs and they told me about 2 inches just below the non cat converter. I was able to pack in 7 18 inch splits I started the load up at 9.00am and it burned until 3.00pm that would be 6 hours of burntime this is with jackpine plus plenty of coals to restart so I probaly could have left it longer.. This is with a non cat converter I think that is very good with pine firewood. I used my central blower dumped heat downstairs for 5 hours. when I shut it off I started with 69 F and it ended up being 78 -79 F now thats what you call heat. The unit stack temp stayed around 500-650 F which is another bonus..Anyway Rfs had told me in the long run th cat compared to the noncat is only 1 hour difference they only used the cat to begin with because of testing the grams per hour. So I would say a Non cat is the way to go
 
Thanks Chappy, this is the kind of information I am wanting to hear about the Opel being hooked up to the central heat.

How much variation in temperature is there between rooms and floors in your house using the central heat duct work? In particular between the room that the fireplace is in verses the basement?

I also find the comment from RSF about the cat interesting.

Thanks.
 
Chappy - when you are running the Opel with the duct fan on, is any air movement coming out of the top of the unit? I have a 200cfm fan that is pulling from my BIS and it doesn't seem to overpower the built-in fan on the BIS. Also, for your experiment, what was the outdoor temperature? Thanks!
 
I use my Opel to throw heat throughout my entire 3000_ sq. ft. house...


I am pretty happy with it. There are a couple units liek it that are very similar too( Security BIS stoves, kozyheat

what specific question do you have?
 
daleeper said:
The features that I want in a new wood heat system is the ability to run low and slow for the shoulder season (catalytic combuster), big enough firebox for 10-12 hour burns, thermostatic control of the primary air, and a glass door.

I would suggest you look at the "panorama" model fromSecurity Chimneys BIS
 
adkdadto4 said:
daleeper said:
The features that I want in a new wood heat system is the ability to run low and slow for the shoulder season (catalytic combuster), big enough firebox for 10-12 hour burns, thermostatic control of the primary air, and a glass door.

I would suggest you look at the "panorama" model fromSecurity Chimneys BIS

Thanks.

If I am reading the manual on the panorama correctly, the primary air control is manual.

I still haven't been able to get to a dealer that handles the Opel yet. Looking forward to pricing a system out that would do what I want it to do, but I'm betting it will be cost prohibitive.
 
as far as the air damper... the ones that control off a thermostat generally are known for being too reactive and often giving you much less than ideal efficiencies... the bi metal types like the one found on RSF units work pretty darnmed well.

the people I have spoken to with thermostat controlled units genrally unkook them becuase they are not happy with the efficiency/cleanliness of the fire...


you might be more interested in a furnace
 
Thanks for bringing this back to the top, easier to find.

I just talked to a dealer this week finally, and got to see one in the display. The Opel looks well made and solid. The dealer that I stopped at had no salesmen available when I was there, and didn't want to sell me anything as I was out of their territory (there is surely a dealer closer to you than we are!), so they referred me to another dealer in a town I never have been and don't plan to go to, a whole 15 minutes closer out of a 3 hour drive. I don't understand these franchise territories sometimes.

Anyway, out of our phone discussion the dealer gave me an example install they had done last fall that ended up accomplishing the type of results I am after. He said the room they had installed in had a freestanding stove that got too warm, and rooms on the other end of the house were cold. He installed the Opel and duct work to the other end and in the basement. The customers reported the room the Opel was in is more comfortable now as well as the bedrooms.

The deal killer is the cost of the setup. By the time all equipment is added up, the cost of materials on the fireplace system alone will be around $7400. There would be labor, and additional materials to build the enclosure for the fireplace. At current propane prices I can heat my house totally with propane for 7-10 years without burning a stick of wood.

I will continue to watch craigslist and the web for a used Blaze King, or if I can string up enough cash and they get this energy tax credit deal spelled out clearly I will buy a new Princess Ultra and work on moving air.

Someone mentioned furnaces. I don't see a furnace that is high in efficiency, will work with no power, and have a glass door in the marketplace yet, so a furnace is not an option at this point.
 
If you wnat it to be in your main room and look good- a zero clearance unit like BIS, KOzy, and RSF are great options.

7400 seems way steep... even if you had a long cvhimney that sounds kinda steep. I wonder how much ductwork jazz they had setup for you.

were they doing the regular stove blower and gravity vent duct? or the central furnace tie-in option?

seems way too high
I would think about half that
 
adkdadto4 said:
If you wnat it to be in your main room and look good- a zero clearance unit like BIS, KOzy, and RSF are great options.

7400 seems way steep... even if you had a long cvhimney that sounds kinda steep. I wonder how much ductwork jazz they had setup for you.

were they doing the regular stove blower and gravity vent duct? or the central furnace tie-in option?

seems way too high
I would think about half that

Central furnace blower option. The fireplace is not cheap to start with, then add $100. per foot chimney and it adds up fast. Part of the price problem is nobody wants my business here in north central Missouri so they quote full retail price. They are all fighting over who has to service this area instead of who gets to. Even at half the price, it really doesn't make good economic sense for us at this time anyway.
 
adkdadto4 said:
100 per foot for chimney... ouch

I am curious- what are they quoting you for just the fireplace?>

Both places wanted about $2600 for the fireplace plus $200 for louvers.
 
Wow! Just found this site and this thread. I'm looking for almost the same thing. I want a furnace type wood burning central unit in my basement where my old electric/gas unit is now... It's for a long ranch, about 73-80 ft long. The old gas central unit worked unbelievably well for such a long long house. But then, they DID put a return in practically every room, so I'm thinking that is why it always cooled a/c down in the summer so quickly and always heated up so fast in winter. I want to use that same duct system for the wood burning unit, but I would love it if the furnace could have a glass door so we could finish the basement and enjoy the fireplace type flames down there. I would also like to be able to have a part of it that could be used as a stove for when the power goes out to cook or have coffee still.

I'm thinking I'll have to probably build my own furnace to get all those features, but is that possible?

I'm also looking for some sort of wood burning stove type fireplace insert for another old house built in 1925 that has back to back coal fireplaces? Not sure if they had fires in them ever, or just gas heaters, as they were when I bought the place in '95. I want to be able to use those brick fireplaces for heat in some way, woodburning wise. I also want the insert to have a place that a pot of coffee or soup could be heated there, or heck, full meals, when the power is out.

AND if that's not enough, I'm also looking for a way to heat water from these wood burning units as well. Can anyone here help me? Maybe I should put this in a new post?
Thanks in advance! Glad to have found a place I can ask my questions! ;)
 
Greetings Justice. Try putting the same post in the Boiler Room forum here. It also covers furnaces and hot water heating.
 
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