Ordering chimney parts

[Gasass]

Hello all. I'm getting ready to order my Class A chimney parts and just wanted to run it by everyone before I make the purchase. I believe I have everything from the stove to and including the support box, so I will just need from the support box to the cap. I will be using Selkirk.

First question: I noticed Selkirk has a couple different lines of chimney pipe. Which do I want to use?

Second question: Can I use a roof brace mounted to the exterior wall to support the pipe? My chimney will be approximately 1'-9" to the center of the pipe from the wall. It looks like the normal wall brackets don't extend that far.

Final question: The pipe sizes are inside dimension..correct? Cut me some slack...I'm new to this

Here's what I plan to order:
6" x 48" - 3 sections
6" x 18" -1 section (12" may be cutting it too close)
1 Chimney cap
1 Storm collar
1 Roof brace
1 - 2/12 -6/12 adjustable roof flashing

Here's a pic of what I'm working with:

 

[begreen]

I like Selkirk Metabest Ultra-temp. You should be able to brace off the dormer, but with an extendable wall brace, not a roof brace. Here is an example: http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=4489
With 17 ft of pipe I would plan on a couple braces there. Yes, pipe size is ID. Download the Selkirk catalog and installation instructions from their website. That will provide you with more info and options. One thing you want to confirm is that your ceiling support box is compatible with the class A chimney. It probably is, but it doesn't hurt to double check.

 

[sticks]

the brand of chimney pipe should match the ceiling box you have.

the roof brace kit can possibly work. you will have to modify it .

The dimensions are for inside measurements.

Slack is given!

 

[DexterDay]

I made custom brackets. Some manuf sell them. These are still nice and shiny after a few coats of paint and clear.

Click to enlarge

 

[Gasass]

I like Selkirk Metabest Ultra-temp. You should be able to brace off the dormer, but with an extendable wall brace, not a roof brace. Here is an example: http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=4489
With 17 ft of pipe I would plan on a couple braces there. Yes, pipe size is ID. Download the Selkirk catalog and installation instructions from their website. That will provide you with more info and options. One thing you want to confirm is that your ceiling support box is compatible with the class A chimney. It probably is, but it doesn't hurt to double check.

Yup, ceiling box is Selkirk. Got all the stove pipe and accessories, painted to match the stove, from the good people of Woodstock. They only use Selkirk. I don't think that adjustable brace will work as it only extends to 12 3/8" and I need around 20".

 

[Gasass]

I made custom brackets. Some manuf sell them. These are still nice and shiny after a few coats of paint and clear.

Click to enlarge

View attachment 103354 View attachment 103355 View attachment 103356

I need something like that!

 

[Heatsource]

is there any attic space? if so be sure to order an attic radiation kit

 

[xman23]

I didn't do my chimney installation, but stacking the chimney is the easy part. What I did do is the ceiling and roof rafter headers to create the clear 1' square chase thru the ceiling and roof. This was important to me as I wanted a straight chimney from the stove to the top of the chimney. I used Dura Vent. Just get all the parts from the same manufacture and you minimize the issues.

Mine is single wall pipe from the stove to the ceiling box. The ceiling box does the transition to the double wall chimney. Also the ceiling box and supports all the the chimney above. Is that your plan as well?

 

[Gasass]

I didn't do my chimney installation, but stacking the chimney is the easy part. What I did do is the ceiling and roof rafter headers to create the clear 1' square chase thru the ceiling and roof. This was important to me as I wanted a straight chimney from the stove to the top of the chimney. I used Dura Vent. Just get all the parts from the same manufacture and you minimize the issues.

Mine is single wall pipe from the stove to the ceiling box. The ceiling box does the transition to the double wall chimney. Also the ceiling box and supports all the the chimney above. Is that your plan as well?

Yup, definitely going to make sure the rafters miss the the pipe so I can have a straight run all the way up. And yes, all the parts will be from selkirk. Sounds like we have the same set up with the exception of the double wall stove pipe we are using.

My biggest hurdle is figuring out how to brace the chimney pipe. I'm hope the rest of the install will be a piece of cake.

 

[xman23]

Bracing should be very easy with parts from the chimney manufacture. My brace is a clamp around the double wall pipe. Attached to the clamp on each side are 2, 1/2 pieces of EMT. They are cut to the length required. Mine are almost 10'. The pipe then bolts to a small right angle tab that screws into the roof or siding. A dab of silicon seals the screw. If you need a picture let me know, I'm sure I could find one.

My ceiling box is 1' X 1' , so It had to hit rafters. Your's will to unless the stove can move. I did a corner install you can see in my avatar. I wanted a clean looking chimney going straight up thru the cathedral ceiling. It was a bit of work, 12" roof rafters and a shed roof above that with 6" X 8" beam that was in the way. My opinion it was worth doing. The cleaning is easy from the top down, as well as the look in side I wanted.

All the work is in the prep work, ceiling box, roof cut, etc. I took my chimney apart last year to get the bats out of the ceiling box. As you said it's a piece of cake re stacking it.

Tom

 

[webby3650]

Bracing should be very easy with parts from the chimney manufacture. My brace is a clamp around the double wall pipe. Attached to the clamp on each side are 2, 1/2 pieces of EMT. They are cut to the length required. Mine are almost 10'. The pipe then bolts to a small right angle tab that screws into the roof or siding. A dab of silicon seals the screw.

You are using a roof brace kit. The OP needs a brace that gives support straight out, the roof brace doesn't do that. But as Sticks said above, a roof brace kit could likely be modified, otherwise something custom like DexterDay made is in order.

 

[xman23]

Web, yes I understood. The part to use for any brace is the chimney pipe clamp that has 2 attachment points on either side. The thinwall EMT is flattened on each end, and drilled for a 1/4 bolt. So the pipe can be 1' the attached to the side of the house, like Dexter's heavy duty standoff. All the load of the chimney is straight down, supported by the ceiling box. The box needs a few good woods screws into ceiling or roof rafters. The brace is just there to prevent it from blowing over from big winds.

 

[DexterDay]

I have both tye horizontal braces I custom made and also the extended roof braces (seen in the 3rd pic).

I have 18 ft of Class A and 4 braces. Starting from the Clean out T (5 counting that one).

 

[Gasass]

Bracing should be very easy with parts from the chimney manufacture. My brace is a clamp around the double wall pipe. Attached to the clamp on each side are 2, 1/2 pieces of EMT. They are cut to the length required. Mine are almost 10'. The pipe then bolts to a small right angle tab that screws into the roof or siding. A dab of silicon seals the screw. If you need a picture let me know, I'm sure I could find one.

My ceiling box is 1' X 1' , so It had to hit rafters. Your's will to unless the stove can move. I did a corner install you can see in my avatar. I wanted a clean looking chimney going straight up thru the cathedral ceiling. It was a bit of work, 12" roof rafters and a shed roof above that with 6" X 8" beam that was in the way. My opinion it was worth doing. The cleaning is easy from the top down, as well as the look in side I wanted.

All the work is in the prep work, ceiling box, roof cut, etc. I took my chimney apart last year to get the bats out of the ceiling box. As you said it's a piece of cake re stacking it.

Tom

I'm also doing a corner install but the stove is going in a new addition we are building. I'll know the placement of the stove, before I frame the roof, to ensure I have a straight shot through the roof.

So I should be able to cut the EMT (what does that stand for) to roughly 1'-9" and mount it to the exterior wall? Sounds easy enough...

 

[webby3650]

Web, yes I understood. The part to use for any brace is the chimney pipe clamp that has 2 attachment points on either side. The thinwall EMT is flattened on each end, and drilled for a 1/4 bolt. So the pipe can be 1' the attached to the side of the house, like Dexter's heavy duty standoff. All the load of the chimney is straight down, supported by the ceiling box. The box needs a few good woods screws into ceiling or roof rafters. The brace is just there to prevent it from blowing over from big winds.

]

I understand how these work, I've installed several dozen of them

The roof brace will be good if they can be placed on the roof of the dormer. But if they need to be placed on the fascia of the dormer, or the wall below the fascia as in the picture, not so well. Unless the struts can be separated by a good distance, they won't offer good side to side support.

 

[xman23]

Electrical metallic tubing (EMT), sometimes called thin-wall. Used to encase electric wires. Various sizes, my supports are 1/2 inch. Check it out in HD electrical dept.

Web, yes a spreed at the house attachment would be the thing to do. They may make better stuff for this. Just saying something simple can work.

Mine to was new construction. No one cared about the stove chase I had on the drawings, so I had to do it. Used the chain saw to cut the rafters. It worked well.

 

[Gasass]

I understand how these work, I've installed several dozen of them

The roof brace will be good if they can be placed on the roof of the dormer. But if they need to be placed on the fascia of the dormer, or the wall below the fascia as in the picture, not so well. Unless the struts can be separated by a good distance, they won't offer good side to side support.

The struts spread to a 45 degree angle from the pipe should be fine...no? I'd rather not attach to the roof, as it is only a 2:12 pitch, I will probably have some problems with the penetrations down the road.

 

[webby3650]

If your dormer is a 2:12, you will need to do something other than shingles on it. And yes 45 degrees is what you want. It would be best to attach something rigid to the fascia.

 

[xman23]

The struts spread to a 45 degree angle from the pipe should be fine...no? I'd rather not attach to the roof, as it is only a 2:12 pitch, I will probably have some problems with the penetrations down the road.

Gas, I think 45 degrees would be fine. As you can see from my picture, I have one support about mid way. Yes you can wiggle it a bit but the chimney doesn't get moved by the wind. You should be able to get away with a support at the fascia level. The last section doesn't need a support, at least my Dura flue dosen't

 

[Gasass]

Gas, I think 45 degrees would be fine. As you can see from my picture, I have one support about mid way. Yes you can wiggle it a bit but the chimney doesn't get moved by the wind. You should be able to get away with a support at the fascia level. The last section doesn't need a support, at least my Dura flue dosen't

Definitely going to try and get a brace on the fascia and maybe one, mid-span, between fascia and addition roof. One more question...Does it matter where I use the 18" piece of pipe? Seems to make the most sense to use it coming out of the support box, then stacking the three 4'-0' sections on top.

We can't wait to get this project started and get the Keystone installed. Just picked up the permits yesterday and the mason said he can probably start sometime next week.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

 

[xman23]

As I said I took my Dura Flue apart last year. It was a mix of 3' section and 4' sections. I didn't see any reason for the mix of lengths. I don't know why you need a 18 inch pipe. Is it the bottom double wall pipe that drops into the ceiling box, not locking teeth? I think mine had no teeth.

FYI one chimney issue I created last year when I disassembled the chimney I left the two of the 4' top sections laying outside on my rear deck. The rest of the sections were on the covered side deck. The top sections got rained on . When I lifted them for reassembly, water ran out and they were heavy. They are not water tight. Laying down the water ran into the seam, getting the insulation wet. Luckily the sections that went below the roof cap didn't get wet. When the chimney got hot the wet sections got hot on the outside to the touch. Not an issue as these are outside. Now a year later I have to check if they dried out.

 

[webby3650]

Definitely going to try and get a brace on the fascia and maybe one, mid-span, between fascia and addition roof. One more question...Does it matter where I use the 18" piece of pipe? Seems to make the most sense to use it coming out of the support box, then stacking the three 4'-0' sections on top.

We can't wait to get this project started and get the Keystone installed. Just picked up the permits yesterday and the mason said he can probably start sometime next week.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

It does not matter where you put the 18". If you put in the box, just make sure you don't end up with a joint in the storm collar area. It can be a real PITA if it does. Also, make sure to shoot a few short sheet metal screws through the flashing and into the outer wall of the pipe, this really helps with stability.