Pellet Flame is a strange color

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elkimmeg said:
If it is a draft issue your manual describes the best ways to vent your stove. Though exceptable directly out the back, but not recomended
The best solution is to have 3 to 6' verticle rise before the exit spelled out in your manual.
Actualy he can go out then up too.
His biggest problem being no outside air in his newer house and his air intake not opening. He can check his draft by watching his flame behavior but should have it checked by his dealer. Unfortunatly his dealertold him outside air was not needed. If he can tell us what the voltage at the outlet is we can help confirm that his combustion blower is not turning fast enough. Although at a minimum the dealer should come out and draft check it after he takes care of the venting and air intake...
Tundra have you checked the flapper on test with the window open yet and watched the flame?
 
GVA said:
elkimmeg said:
If it is a draft issue your manual describes the best ways to vent your stove. Though exceptable directly out the back, but not recomended
The best solution is to have 3 to 6' verticle rise before the exit spelled out in your manual.
Actualy he can go out then up too.
His biggest problem being no outside air in his newer house and his air intake not opening. He can check his draft by watching his flame behavior but should have it checked by his dealer. Unfortunatly his dealertold him outside air was not needed. If he can tell us what the voltage at the outlet is we can help confirm that his combustion blower is not turning fast enough. Although at a minimum the dealer should come out and draft check it after he takes care of the venting and air intake...
Tundra have you checked the flapper on test with the window open yet and watched the flame?

No I have not checked that yet...But i will do that. Plus it is warm enough outside to have the windows open today. I plan on calling my dealertomorrow. Thanks for everyones help.
 
with my slider open (BBQ'ing some wings for the Pats game) and some windows open the flame DOES seel lighter in color and more active. Plus it is not climbing to the top of the glass. backdraft damper is still about 85% closed.
 
Just so you know the airflow in your stove draft etc. Comb blower runs and draws the air through the air intake and through those holes in the burnpot. Exact path of air here would be air comes through damper and under burnpot then through the holes through the airspace between heat exchanger and the plates to the comb blower and out the pipe. (Harry may confirm this with more specifics) This is just a simple way of describing the flow.
If you had a decent flame pattern in the beginning and now it is leaning toward the glass and your draft has not been setup right, then chances are under the burnpot is starting to get packed with ash which is lowering airflow (draft) even more. Those flames should be blown back toward the back wall and not towards the glass. The 2 wingnuts provide access to this area for cleanout... There shouldn't be much in there because it's a new install unless there was a draft problem.
Just a heads up there for you for future reference when watching the flame pattern after everything is fixed.
Keep us informed when everything is fixed up. :)
Thanks
 
GVA said:
Just so you know the airflow in your stove draft etc. Comb blower runs and draws the air through the air intake and through those holes in the burnpot. Exact path of air here would be air comes through damper and under burnpot then through the holes through the airspace between heat exchanger and the plates to the comb blower and out the pipe. (Harry may confirm this with more specifics) This is just a simple way of describing the flow.
If you had a decent flame pattern in the beginning and now it is leaning toward the glass and your draft has not been setup right, then chances are under the burnpot is starting to get packed with ash which is lowering airflow (draft) even more. Those flames should be blown back toward the back wall and not towards the glass. The 2 wingnuts provide access to this area for cleanout... There shouldn't be much in there because it's a new install unless there was a draft problem.
Just a heads up there for you for future reference when watching the flame pattern after everything is fixed.
Keep us informed when everything is fixed up. :)
Thanks

Thanks.....I am powering down the stove to investigate that now...
 
I cleaned out the burnpot and removed the wingnuts and there was a decent amount of ash built up. I vacummed the entire stove and it has been burning great for about an hour....I am not going to touch a thing the rest of the day.

temp 75
room mode (middle)
feed 2.5
 
sounds good :) but You most likely still have a draft problem this is just a quick fix, but it will keep happening till everything is perfect. The air should keep the ash out of there for the most part till you are at least through about a half ton. ;-)
 
I have the same stove and the same Pellets.
I also see strange green/yellow colors in the base of the flame from time to time.
I however am using the outside air intake setup...
Im going to keep an eye on this thread.

Ya know. I just read this thread again and now Im wondering.
I have the outside air. and I have lazy flames that touch the glass.
I have the identical set up to you in regards to vent pipe also. I'm guessing we dont have sufficent draft.
I have looked at ebay and a magnehelic gauge isnt that expensive.
I would be into buying one to check it out...
 
TedNH said:
I have the same stove and the same Pellets.
I also see strange green/yellow colors in the base of the flame from time to time.
I however am using the outside air intake setup...
Im going to keep an eye on this thread.

Ya know. I just read this thread again and now Im wondering.
I have the outside air. and I have lazy flames that touch the glass.
I have the identical set up to you in regards to vent pipe also. I'm guessing we dont have sufficent draft.
I have looked at ebay and a magnehelic gauge isnt that expensive.
I would be into buying one to check it out...
Magnehelics come in about 100 different ranges I'm sure e-bay won't have the right one for you draft measurement though
 
True, GVA, you need to get the right one......go to your Harman dealer....they can order a set right from Harman for you....
 
GVA said:
TedNH said:
I have the same stove and the same Pellets.
I also see strange green/yellow colors in the base of the flame from time to time.
I however am using the outside air intake setup...
Im going to keep an eye on this thread.

Ya know. I just read this thread again and now Im wondering.
I have the outside air. and I have lazy flames that touch the glass.
I have the identical set up to you in regards to vent pipe also. I'm guessing we dont have sufficent draft.
I have looked at ebay and a magnehelic gauge isnt that expensive.
I would be into buying one to check it out...
Magnehelics come in about 100 different ranges I'm sure e-bay won't have the right one for you draft measurement though

I looked up the range on my stove... I need something that will read between -.30 W.C and -.60 W.C.

This one looks ok..

http://cgi.ebay.com/DWYER-MAGNEHELI...ryZ55825QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
I spoke with my stove shop again yesterday.
He claims that with the direct vent system they sell they very rarely if ever have to adjust the voltage.
He suggested I put the stove to stove temp mode at ~ #4 and feed rate 3 and see what happens.
Well...I woke up this am to a house that was 78*.... which is nice but the hopper of the stove, which I filled before I went to bed was 3/4 empty. Im guessing about a bag burned overnight. oops.
 
I use a 2302 it's a left over from work deal. I'ts got a dual scale +1 and -1 from zero in the middle..
The one you see ted should work you just will have to swap the lines around and use the high pressure line (i think) to get the needle to go the right way this would then be the same as the -.30 to-.60 you are looking for.
Also it's not all pipe related the average household voltage is not 120 volts If your voltage is say 116 volts then the comb blower will run a bit slower and the opposite for higher voltages. The stoves are set for 120 volts at the factory and thats that... Now depending on your voltage and the vent configuration the draft should be checked to compensate for these. Or heres another way of looking at it if you have 120 volts dead on and you have a (direct) vent with say a longer than average run the comb blower can be tweaked a bit to help with an optimum draft :)
 
Talked to my dealertoday...here is his input:

1. energex pellets will have a yellow green color and produce a very clumpy ash.
2. Lazy flame is normal this time of year when it is really not cold enough for the pellet stove to work consistantly.
3. Don't be concerned with the draft readings...these pellet stoves are preset at the factory based on elevation of where they will be sold.
4.He suggested 2.5 as the optimum feed rate for softwood pellets and the XXV.
 
tundraSQ said:
Talked to my dealertoday...here is his input:

1. energex pellets will have a yellow green color and produce a very clumpy ash.
2. Lazy flame is normal this time of year when it is really not cold enough for the pellet stove to work consistantly.
3. Don't be concerned with the draft readings...these pellet stoves are preset at the factory based on elevation of where they will be sold.
4.He suggested 2.5 as the optimum feed rate for softwood pellets and the XXV.
1) I burned energex most of last year clumpy ash yes green no maybe the pellets are weird this year it's possible.
2) I haven't had a lazy flame unless I open the door, unless it's due to be cleaned ie: so much ash built up I'm losing airflow which is related to draft.
3) Well just remember the dealer also said you didn't need outside air also. The factory can't preset combustion based on where it's going to be sold or on how
it's piped voltages etc.....
4) Pellet feed it's different for everyone.
Were just trying to throw some info at you so you can question your dealer more thoroughly 10 dealers can have 10 different explanations for why something happens This site probably has at least another 10 dealers that can answer your questions add it all up and you become more informed.
 
GVA said:
tundraSQ said:
Talked to my dealertoday...here is his input:

1. energex pellets will have a yellow green color and produce a very clumpy ash.
2. Lazy flame is normal this time of year when it is really not cold enough for the pellet stove to work consistantly.
3. Don't be concerned with the draft readings...these pellet stoves are preset at the factory based on elevation of where they will be sold.
4.He suggested 2.5 as the optimum feed rate for softwood pellets and the XXV.
1) I burned energex most of last year clumpy ash yes green no maybe the pellets are weird this year it's possible.
2) I haven't had a lazy flame unless I open the door, unless it's due to be cleaned ie: so much ash built up I'm losing airflow which is related to draft.
3) Well just remember the dealer also said you didn't need outside air also. The factory can't preset combustion based on where it's going to be sold or on how
it's piped voltages etc.....
4) Pellet feed it's different for everyone.
Were just trying to throw some info at you so you can question your dealer more thoroughly 10 dealers can have 10 different explanations for why something happens This site probably has at least another 10 dealers that can answer your questions add it all up and you become more informed.

1. I think they are different than they were last year too.
2. My "lazy" flame is no where near what the flame is when I open the door....its just "slightly" lazy and lurching forward...so I will have to clean the burnpot more freq than expected.
3. I agree...that one kind of had me scratching my head too
4. I value your opinion (and others here) over the dealer because I think his answers while coming from many years of knowledge...are also based on how to get me off the phone the quickest since his time is valuable.

Thanks!!!
 
I got my stove figured out.
SCRAPE YOUR BURN POT.
And I mean GOOD.
I had big chunks of carbon stuck to the SIDES of the pot. Now the fire looks like a blow torch and its throwing some mean heat.
 
sage advice TedNH.....seems alot of folks just drag the scraper over the burnpot....youve gotta be more aggressive.
Set the draft? Heck yea! GVA is right in that it is SUPPOSEDLY set at the factory, but Ive seen a few QC problems this year, and wouldnt discount the fact that some havent been set.....had one with the combustion fan totally unplugged....and the connections are tight...they dont fall out.....so, praytell, how can the draft be tested when the fan isnt even plugged in?>
 
HarryBack said:
sage advice TedNH.....seems alot of folks just drag the scraper over the burnpot....youve gotta be more aggressive.
Set the draft? Heck yea! GVA is right in that it is SUPPOSEDLY set at the factory, but Ive seen a few QC problems this year, and wouldnt discount the fact that some havent been set.....had one with the combustion fan totally unplugged....and the connections are tight...they dont fall out.....so, praytell, how can the draft be tested when the fan isnt even plugged in?>

True..but mine was tested by the dealer during pre-burn...just remebered I forgot to ask the dealer about the backdraft damper on mine always being about 85% closed. DOH!!

But I set it at a feed of 2.5 and temp of 72 and I moved the probe out from behind and set it on the window sill and it has worked great for over 24 hours. I get more ash buildup on the burnpot than i would like, but the house is warm and the flame is fine.
 
tundraSQ said:
HarryBack said:
sage advice TedNH.....seems alot of folks just drag the scraper over the burnpot....youve gotta be more aggressive.
Set the draft? Heck yea! GVA is right in that it is SUPPOSEDLY set at the factory, but Ive seen a few QC problems this year, and wouldnt discount the fact that some havent been set.....had one with the combustion fan totally unplugged....and the connections are tight...they dont fall out.....so, praytell, how can the draft be tested when the fan isnt even plugged in?>

True..but mine was tested by the dealer during pre-burn...just remebered I forgot to ask the dealer about the backdraft damper on mine always being about 85% closed. DOH!!

But I set it at a feed of 2.5 and temp of 72 and I moved the probe out from behind and set it on the window sill and it has worked great for over 24 hours. I get more ash buildup on the burnpot than i would like, but the house is warm and the flame is fine.

testing draft on preburn means nothing....must be tested with actual venting in place.
 
TedNH said:
I got my stove figured out.
SCRAPE YOUR BURN POT.
And I mean GOOD.
I had big chunks of carbon stuck to the SIDES of the pot. Now the fire looks like a blow torch and its throwing some mean heat.

I just did this..I had been cleaning the front of the burnpot....tonight I let the fire die down and REALLY got deep down and cleaned it all out...I had no idea the back and the sides would need to be cleaned. This is a learning process...but I ran the stove for 2 days without touching a single setting...:)

thanks
 
tundraSQ said:
TedNH said:
I got my stove figured out.
SCRAPE YOUR BURN POT.
And I mean GOOD.
I had big chunks of carbon stuck to the SIDES of the pot. Now the fire looks like a blow torch and its throwing some mean heat.

I just did this..I had been cleaning the front of the burnpot....tonight I let the fire die down and REALLY got deep down and cleaned it all out...I had no idea the back and the sides would need to be cleaned. This is a learning process...but I ran the stove for 2 days without touching a single setting...:)

thanks
If you do a search here I'm sure you'll see tips on what to use to scrape the burn pot with, as that scraper that comes with the stove is ok for removing ash but not clinkers(carbon buildup). Use the scraper that came with the stove for walls and heat exchangers but the burnpot needs something a bit more rugged.

Just a tip Every day when I get home from work I give a quick but strong scrape of the back of the burnpot, Just to keep the carbon from really building up (it only takes a minute and the stove is still running when I do this)

On the advance the major buildup is always on the left hand side of the burnpot and the glass always fogs on that side first.
There seems to be a bunch of 25 owners here.... What side is worse for clinkers and which is worse for the glass fogging up?
 
GVA said:
tundraSQ said:
TedNH said:
I got my stove figured out.
SCRAPE YOUR BURN POT.
And I mean GOOD.
I had big chunks of carbon stuck to the SIDES of the pot. Now the fire looks like a blow torch and its throwing some mean heat.

I just did this..I had been cleaning the front of the burnpot....tonight I let the fire die down and REALLY got deep down and cleaned it all out...I had no idea the back and the sides would need to be cleaned. This is a learning process...but I ran the stove for 2 days without touching a single setting...:)

thanks
If you do a search here I'm sure you'll see tips on what to use to scrape the burn pot with, as that scraper that comes with the stove is ok for removing ash but not clinkers(carbon buildup). Use the scraper that came with the stove for walls and heat exchangers but the burnpot needs something a bit more rugged.

Just a tip Every day when I get home from work I give a quick but strong scrape of the back of the burnpot, Just to keep the carbon from really building up (it only takes a minute and the stove is still running when I do this)

On the advance the major buildup is always on the left hand side of the burnpot and the glass always fogs on that side first.
There seems to be a bunch of 25 owners here.... What side is worse for clinkers and which is worse for the glass fogging up?

Left side for me had the most build up...and I was thinking as I was scraping it..."there MUST" be a better tool for this"...and the right side and top of my glass fogs worst.
 
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