1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Jotul Cast Iron Stoves
    Woodstock Soapstone Stoves
    Hearth and Home (QuadraFire and Harman Stoves)
  1. Mir77 New Member

    joined: Dec 28, 2012
    10 posts
    I am reluctant to remove all the wires and then remove the cover from the control board. It makes me nervous. Are there any recommended tools? I am not an electrician by any means but a problem solver, nonetheless. I definitely cannot afford the $678 at this time if it is the control board.

    When the stove is plugged in, the lights on the control board are on, i.e. the red call to the thermostat light flashes, so there must be some part of it working. Pellets keep dropping, and subsequently dumping into the ash drawer — just no red glow, no flame, no fire.

    I seem to recall reading that there is a manual setting on the thermostat control, at which point I could light the pellets by hand. Does anyone have any advice on this point before I can get a technician/fix the problem?
    #26

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!



  2. heat seeker Minister of Fire

    joined: Feb 25, 2011
    1,668 posts
    Northern CT
    For the cost of a tech and/or a new board, I'd manually light the stove.
  3. LMPS Feeling the Heat

    joined: Dec 12, 2010
    320 posts
    Coastal, Maine
    You can do a manual light. Let it drop some pellets in the fire pot, open the door use the fire gel and light them ( I would also ad a handful of pellets at this point). Watch the fire you may have to put some more gel on and/or add some pellets manually. It does take a little long for it to build the fire this way but it does work.
  4. Harvey Schneider Feeling the Heat

    joined: Oct 9, 2012
    467 posts
    Southbury, CT
    There's a good chance it is both, but the open trace wins. Of course the trace has to be checked and restored first if necessary, but I would put money on the triac being toast.
  5. Harvey Schneider Feeling the Heat

    joined: Oct 9, 2012
    467 posts
    Southbury, CT
    But then you lose the convenience of automated operation
  6. Mir77 New Member

    joined: Dec 28, 2012
    10 posts
    I replaced the fuse and it was clearly toast. So far so good. It has been running smoothly for a couple hours now. Thanks, everyone, for your help!
  7. tz0zk6 Member

    joined: Feb 20, 2011
    3 posts
    Michigan
    Hello,

    I did the same thing. The new ignitors that I bought had short wires with no plugs on the end. I soldered the old wires with plugs and covered the joint with the ceramic cloth wire covering that is on the ignitor units. Being lazy I did not glue or tape the cloth and my ash drawer nicked the wire and created a spark. Since then my ignitor will not blow. I suspect that I too popped the fuse.

    Did you find the ignitor fuse inside the black control box? were you able to get it open without unplugging the mass of wires connecting to it? Seeking some advice on how to tackle this problem as you did. Is it a normal automotive type fuse or clear glass tube type?

    lighting manually for now

    Thanks!

Share This Page