Ran the first test fire in our new VC Defiant

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DullAxe

New Member
Jul 20, 2023
25
Wet, wet, Washington
Hey all,

This morning I lit the first test fire in our newly installed VC Defiant. Just a small fire, and kept it under 500 degrees as the manual suggests for the first few. Things went well, and we love the heat that it puts out. I do need to do the dollar bill check on the gaskets, though, as the air control seemed to have no effect on the flame.

When running the dollar bill test I assume that I have to do that all the way around the gaskets of the doors and ash pan, correct? I'll see if I can find a thread that calls it out.
 
I think it was user error. I just went down and checked the stove and I don't believe the ash pan was fully closed, but the handle showed that it was closed. I need to ensure that it's fully engaged with the latch next time. Hopefully it was that simple. My son will be home soon so I'm sure I'll "have to" do another test burn tonight :).
 
The defiant is a big stove.. I almost got that one. Im glad I didn't Id probably cook myself out of the room. You should have great control over the flames and the burn.. definitely check and make sure everything is closed before starting the next fire.. you definitely dont want to damage it
 
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It was the ash pan that was causing the lack of response from the air control. That being said during the second test burn the air control doesn't really allow the full range of potential. It makes a difference, just not as much as I would expect there to be. Opened all the way it doesn't behave the same as if the door or ashpan are open, and when closed all the way it doesn't really dampen the flame much. Is that just due to the EPA 2020 regs not allowing the low burn to smolder, or should the air control give me more control than I'm currently seeing?

I was expecting that when the air control is open all the way that it's like leaving the stove doors open, and when closed down that it reduces the flame significantly. Perhaps it's more responsive on a full fire instead of the small test burn (two 4" logs)?
 
Im assuming you went with the 8 inch stov pipe, how tall is the stack from top of stove to cap. All stoves work on draft and good draft is the key to any stove. Its awfully early in the burning season for draft to be at its best. For draft to be optimal it needs to be cooler out say 40 degrees outside and mid 60s or so inside and the stove needs to run for a while to get everything up to temperature. The closer the outside temperature is to the inside temperature of the house will create lower draft. Id still fire up the stove here and there and learn how to use it but not really make any assessments of the stove performance until it gets cooler out and the stove has better conditions to operate in
 
It was the ash pan that was causing the lack of response from the air control. That being said during the second test burn the air control doesn't really allow the full range of potential. It makes a difference, just not as much as I would expect there to be. Opened all the way it doesn't behave the same as if the door or ashpan are open, and when closed all the way it doesn't really dampen the flame much. Is that just due to the EPA 2020 regs not allowing the low burn to smolder, or should the air control give me more control than I'm currently seeing?

I was expecting that when the air control is open all the way that it's like leaving the stove doors open, and when closed down that it reduces the flame significantly. Perhaps it's more responsive on a full fire instead of the small test burn (two 4" logs)?
The firebox on these stoves has a tight balance of where the air goes. There will be little correlation with having the door open or a leaky ashpan door. When burning right, the primary air is fed mostly via the air wash. As the primary air is turned down, the draft creates a vacuum in the firebox which then pulls air from the secondary supply.

When is the bypass being closed? Does the stove have the catalyst? Is the bypass being closed once the catalyst is active (around 500º cat temp)?
 
The firebox on these stoves has a tight balance of where the air goes. There will be little correlation with having the door open or a leaky ashpan door. When burning right, the primary air is fed mostly via the air wash. As the primary air is turned down, the draft creates a vacuum in the firebox which then pulls air from the secondary supply.

When is the bypass being closed? Does the stove have the catalyst? Is the bypass being closed once the catalyst is active (around 500º cat temp)?

From what I understand, they are doing the break in fires.. I don't think that they have actually gotten that far .. closing the bypass... I could be reading this wrong..
 
From what I understand, they are doing the break in fires.. I don't think that they have actually gotten that far .. closing the bypass... I could be reading this wrong..
Good point, that could be. Also, our temps are still on the mild side so draft and behavior will be different when it gets cold outside.
 
Hey sorry I didn't get a chance to respond yesterday - was putting solar panels up on the woodshed, or at least getting ready. They finally went up today.

Yes, we're just doing small sub 500-degree break-in fires. Basically start the fire, throw a small log or two on and let it burn out. So I haven't tried the bypass yet. Thanks for the information on the draft differential and how it improves the colder it gets outside. Looking forward to cranking this thing up .

-Steve
 
Last year we didn't start burning until late October. It just wasn't cold enough for anything but a chill chaser fire.
 
Check to make sure your primary air flap is actuating when you move the lever. Had some exciting first couple weeks my first season with the flap stuck wide open.

Best video I’ve found (~1:30)


I have to use a flashlight and a small mirror to see this on my install.
 
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Hey all,

This morning I lit the first test fire in our newly installed VC Defiant. Just a small fire, and kept it under 500 degrees as the manual suggests for the first few. Things went well, and we love the heat that it puts out. I do need to do the dollar bill check on the gaskets, though, as the air control seemed to have no effect on the flame.

When running the dollar bill test I assume that I have to do that all the way around the gaskets of the doors and ash pan, correct? I'll see if I can find a thread that calls it out.
ha I love your name DullAxe. Welcome to the Dauntless club! A stove I love and hate. Im on year 2 of mine, and while it is way too warm out to run the stove in my area we have had a few nights that I fired her up to blow out the cobwebs and take the edge off.

The Dauntless as I found out, is not a beginner stove. IMO. You essentially have purchased an italian sports car. Beautiful to look at and operate, but temperamental.

Based on your post, Im going to give you some advice so that you can avoid headaches, hearthbreak and possibly a house fire.
TLDR, keep flames visible, a nice hot bed of coals, make changes slowly, use <20MC wood, expect from cold start to smooth operation it will take you ~6 hours to a set it and walk away (after months of experience)

-You are burning small short fires for now. That's barely going to get the stove up to temp. I bet the sides are cool to the touch or at least not able to burn your hand holding it there for awhile. If you continue to try and burn a small fire though for longer periods of time, the stove will really start to throw out some heat. So you may get more than you asked for. Conversely when it's really cold out, you may really wonder if you got the right sized stove, 3 hours in when the room/house is cold. Cast iron stoves take a long time to heat up and cool down. Sure you can get the top blazing hot fairly quickly, but most of that heat is going up the chimney at that point early in. Just setting an expectation here.
-You must use well seasoned wood. <20% MC tested properly. If you dont have that, you've got the wrong stove. Search here for how to test, and buy a moisture meter.
-Prepare to babysit and resist the urge to fiddle with the air control. Make changes in small increments and wait ten minutes before changing again until you get used to the stove.
-Do not allow this thing to burn long/slow until you've learned the stove well. They create a monstrous amount of creosote in a very very short period of time. If you continue to do this, and then one day get a really hot large flaming fire going and leave the bypass open, you will quickly learn the term 'creosote burn off' aka chimney fire. Im talking in a matter of weeks.
-When you are starting your stove, start as you have then keep adding a few smaller pieces as those burn down, building up to slightly larger and more pieces but I wouldnt fill the box with more than half early on. Make sure you keep the air control to the point that you always see a flame behind that black glass ;). Once you see that you have 3-4" of chunky and small red hot coals, you can go ahead and pack up the stove fairly tight. But it's important that you let that new wood catch. Usually 30 minutes of running it to the point that you can see flames in between the logs. Might be hard to see at first. If in doubt set the air control to the highest setting for awhile then back it down halfway to ensure that new packed load gets caught. Once you have that large load showing flames easily observed, you can then back off the air control to like the 3rd or 4th from the bottom and let that load run for hours. Might take an hour to get there though. Key here is not to pack the stove tight, and believe you can just set the air control to the lower/lowest settings and wake up to anything other than an appliance that created thick black juicy tar all throughout your stove and stove pipe. Heat is the key to ensuring that creosote doesnt build up.
-It not impossible but it's probable that you will need a cat thermometer. Even if you dont have a cat installed, you are going to want to know when you can switch over to the secondary and close the bypass. I can usually get there before I do a big load, but then I have to open the bypass again to do the full load and then let that remain as such for awhile until my big load catches.
-If you arent getting 8 hours of burn time on this stove once you've gotten through a long start up, you arent optimizing your burn. These stoves were not meant for the weekend warrior really, they are better suited to remain in operation through the week. But that's not to say that they cant just be used on the weekends, just realize though that there is a long startup time to get it operating smoothly without a ton of effort.
-You will have black glass. Black glass is a sign that you are doing something wrong, and even if you do all the right things there will still be sizable portions of black glass. I have mornings that I wake up to completely clear glass, and mornings that it isnt so much. Same wood, same methods, same air control settings. For the most part though, the coldest days/nights that I run it on the hotter side, the glass is clear.
-Do yourself a favor and between fires, check your flue. Get a flashlight and a phone and take a picture up inside there to see how much creosote is up there. Also get a pair of binoculars and inspect the spark arrestor after a few months. After one season my spark arrestor was 50% clogged. Yikes. Much of that was me learning the stove, operating it too low too soon without cat installed.
-Consider getting a cat if you dont have one. It will allow you to burn off that stuff that would create creosote at lower temps. Even if you run the stove hot and get a load really caught, when you shut down the bypass and lower the stove temps, you probably arent burning off that smoke.
-Go outside and look at the smoke coming from the chimney, there are threads about this. It's frustrating to see a good bit of smoke coming from the chimney, but satisfying when you have a good fire inside and a hot stove, but outside you dont really see much coming out of the chimney.
-Never operate the stove on high flames while holding the top door open to inspect for too long. Those flames rush up the pipe and you'll hear all sorts of scary noises and smells as it burns the gunk inside. Also take your time to open that door. Ive had smoke billow up then suddenly catch 1' - 2' from the stove top. Yes a giant fireball in front of you, scary.
-You'll know you've gotten the top/stove pipe too hot when you smell that smell that I can't describe.
-Stove top temperature can be a good gauge for operating, but it's fairly meaningless for the first 3-4 hours other than to avoid getting the top too hot aka the danger zone.

Your goals are safe operation. Clear glass. Little to no smoke out of the chimney during long term usage once a load has caught and the stove is sailing along. You may find that you can only create a situation whereas there is no smoke from the chimney once a full load is about 1/2 burned out. But as you gain experience you'll get better at this.

Finally, if you havent figured this out. The chances of having other family members operate this are slim to none, at least until you've figured it out enough to create a guide for usage. I have a laminated piece of paper that tells my family what to do while it's running when Im away and I would never leave the stove for the first 4-5 hours after startup with family to tend to it. One on my paper is: If they are cold, the answer isn't increase the air control all the way and walk away from the stove for an hour. It's go put on a sweater, then walk to the stove and if you dont see flames adjust the air control up two notches then wait 30 minutes. :)

Also btw, when it's warm out and you have a new load smoking heavily out the chimney, dont freak out when you see some smoke coming through the hatch. Increase the air control a bit. You've introduce too much wood on not enough coals. That's why the startup process in the manual is what it is. They have it right.

Once you get this down, you will be able to build a small kindling fire with a couple small splits in the stove packed to the top, let that burn but adjusting the air down and down as it burns down, then smash that down and just add about half the stove with mediums, let that burn on hit for awhile till that burns down, smash that down then pack it tight and let that burn for about 30 minutes, then set and forget. The cat help as well, but it's not a must.
 
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ha I love your name DullAxe. Welcome to the Dauntless club! A stove I love and hate. Im on year 2 of mine, and while it is way too warm out to run the stove in my area we have had a few nights that I fired her up to blow out the cobwebs and take the edge off.

The Dauntless as I found out, is not a beginner stove. IMO. You essentially have purchased an italian sports car. Beautiful to look at and operate, but temperamental.


Once you get this down, you will be able to build a small kindling fire with a couple small splits in the stove packed to the top, let that burn but adjusting the air down and down as it burns down, then smash that down and just add about half the stove with mediums, let that burn on hit for awhile till that burns down, smash that down then pack it tight and let that burn for about 30 minutes, then set and forget. The cat help as well, but it's not a must.

You should probably read his post.. Hes burning a DEFIANT...not a Dauntless.. Hes burning the largest stove in the VC line 3cuft..

@DullAxe.. please do not operate your stove as described above..

If you look up the 2022/2023 VC owners thread around Christmas.. I put together and extremely detailed post on stove operation as well as the temperature of the stovetop, catalyst, and flue temperature.. This is how to run a stove like yours without worrying about burning your house down.. as mentioned in the how to burn your house down in the post above.

You're better off running the catalyst in the stove.. Definitely dont follow his advice on this.. the catalyst will help you out in 2 ways.. 1 keeping the flue up to temperature and avoiding the stove stalling on you 2 .. if there is some user error regarding the air control the catalyst will burn up the smoke and keep your chimney cleaner..

There is so much wrong with the post above.. don't do anything mentioned.. you will have your stove running and the catalyst cruising in less then an hour if your doing it correctly..
 
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You should probably read his post.. Hes burning a DEFIANT...not a Dauntless.. Hes burning the largest stove in the VC line 3cuft..

@DullAxe.. please do not operate your stove as described above..

If you look up the 2022/2023 VC owners thread around Christmas.. I put together and extremely detailed post on stove operation as well as the temperature of the stovetop, catalyst, and flue temperature.. This is how to run a stove like yours without worrying about burning your house down.. as mentioned in the how to burn your house down in the post above.

Your better off running the catalyst in the stove.. Definitely dont follow his advice on this.. the catalyst will help you out in 2 ways.. 1 keeping the flue up to temperature and avoiding the stove stalling on you 2 .. if there is some user error regarding the air control the catalyst will burn up the smoke and keep your chimney cleaner..

There is so much wrong with the post above.. don't do anything mentioned.. you will have your stove running and the catalyst cruising in less then an hour if your doing it correctly..
oh my stalker is back.
TO OP Sorry I read another thread and thought your was a Dauntless. Be careful with this little edge lord, he's touchy about real world examples that dont align to his.
 
oh my stalker is back.
TO OP Sorry I read another thread and thought your was a Dauntless. Be careful with this little edge lord, he's touchy about real world examples that dont align to his.

I completely understand that your trying to make yourself relevant by saying that Im stalking you.. nothing could be farther from the truth.. The fact is you give lousy advice.. much of the advice you give is wrong and you misguide people..

You've worked hard getting the number of posts up to try to add some credibility to what you have to say. Your the one posting almost a year to the date of chimney fires and.. whats that creosote smell and that black tar dripping down my stovepipe..

Your advice is going to hurt someone.. if you wat to burn your hose down go ahead.. My thought process is to help people go in the right direction.. yours will lead people to believe it takes 4 hours to get the stove up to temperature..

You cant figure out how to run your stove with the catalyst in it
 
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Woodsplitter, please provide a link to the recommended operation thread. I will extract it from the bulk posting. It should be an independent thread.
 
I completely understand that your trying to make yourself relevant by saying that Im stalking you.. nothing could be farther from the truth.. The fact is you give lousy advice.. much of the advice you give is wrong and you misguide people..

You've worked hard getting the number of posts up to try to add some credibility to what you have to say. Your the one posting almost a year to the date of chimney fires and.. whats that creosote smell and that black tar dripping down my stovepipe..

Your advice is going to hurt someone.. if you wat to burn your hose down go ahead.. My thought process is to help people go in the right direction.. yours will lead people to believe it takes 4 hours to get the stove up to temperature..

You cant figure out how to run your stove with the catalyst in it
Yes that's it. I stacked up replies for credibility. Lol. Not because I love burning wood for heat.
No VCs will burn down houses, not my advice. It's the most difficult stove out there, translation fail the challenge equals danger. I advise to burn hot, as do you. Yet the manual suggest you have a wide range of btus, which is false.
Yes it takes hours to get a cast iron stove to peak performance. Sure you could rush this along but I recommend for the VC stove for the average new user this is the best expectation. It's accurate info. Yours is not.
Man you love your catalyst talk. Now remember these are marketed as being able to do with or without.
Tell me you work for VC without telling me you work for VC simp.
Several others on these forms have arrived at the same conclusion as I on the deets of running this stove. No biggie but because it sits outside your notions of correct your mind is blown. So either VC employee or blind zealot. Either way equally malignant
Well, GL little incel. Move along.
 
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Yes that's it. I stacked up replies for credibility. Lol. Not because I love burning wood for heat.
No VCs will burn down houses, not my advice. It's the most difficult stove out there, translation fail the challenge equals danger. I advise to burn hot, as do you. Yet the manual suggest you have a wide range of btus, which is false.
Yes it takes hours to get a cast iron stove to peak performance. Sure you could rush this along but I recommend for the VC stove for the average new user this is the best expectation. It's accurate info. Yours is not.
Man you love your catalyst talk. Now remember these are marketed as being able to do with or without.
Tell me you work for VC without telling me you work for VC simp.
Several others on these forms have arrived at the same conclusion as I on the deets of running this stove. No biggie but because it sits outside your notions of correct your mind is blown. So either VC employee or blind zealot. Either way equally malignant
Well, GL little incel. Move along.

Im sorry your so easily offended..

Please, dont try to tell people that we have any burning techniques in common.. were on totally different levels here.

As many here know.. I dont work for VC.. Im self employed.. hence why I have so many pieces of equipment when process.. In another thread I was discussing building and replacing a body on one of my dump trucks.. This is typical of you.. you generally dont know what your talking about. You really do embarrass yourself with many of your replies.

Please notice something above in post # 13.. people put a like to it.. dont take any of your advice.. that really should resonate with you, People try not to piont out people like yourself because of the Richard replies like you make.. You try to make things personal.. Im not.. Im just pointing out how terrible your advice is, and for people not to take it.. Really.. I don't wat to see people taking your advice.. thinking it legitimate.. and hurt themselves or a family member..

You really should learn how to operate a stove properly.. I promise.. Ill stop telling people not to take your advice when you actually do give quality information.

I completely understand your frustration regarding your stove and how you operate it.. Not everyone has a poor setup like yourself.. Face it.. wood burning and the VC stove is not for you.. and your terrible at it

You can continue to do your name calling and use your odd Innuendos.. its all you have because nothing actually intelligent is in your posts.. just saying..
 
Post 462-467 from the 22-23 VC users thread. @begreen @Woodsplitter67 maybe you know a good way to find those.


Thanks for pulling this up.. gave me a starting point..

The front should have already passed your area.. did it cool down..
 
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