rangeley t50 issues?

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sidenull

New Member
Oct 11, 2014
37
Auburn Maine
First time posting and, as you could guess, i have an issue. I have uploaded some videos of "it" in action and will answer any question that come up to help solve this. Basically it seems the stove is starved for air. Thanks in advance.






 
Also, i am pretty green when it comes to wood stoves. I have an old Jotul stove from the 80s and, as you all know, a completely different beast.
 
Like jeff said, its probably you're wood, what kind of wood is it, when was I split?
 
Thanks for the info so far. Could there be anything else? I had the old Jotul hooked up to the same flue and it worked just fine. I'm guessing these type of stoves are sensitive to how dry the wood is....or is not....
 
Thanks for the info so far. Could there be anything else? I had the old Jotul hooked up to the same flue and it worked just fine. I'm guessing these type of stoves are sensitive to how dry the wood is....or is not....
Yes, the newer stoves are much more sensitive to wet wood, depending on the species of wood you have it may need more time. To rule it out go buy a couple of the bundles of wood from the supermarket they sell for fireplaces and try a load with that, that wood is kiln dried, if it works ok with that wood you have your answer.
 
What type of flue is it? How big? How tall? Could very possibly be a draft issue, or a combination.

New stoves need a good dependable draft. Older stoves weren't as sensitive, so your old stove could work just fine, and the new one won't.
 
That's gonna be killing your draft. Is it a 6" liner in a masonry chimney? 6" clay? 6" class A?

Four feet is a pretty long horizontal run, plus a 90. It is lowering your effective overall height to prolly around 8'.
 
It is a6 inch flue 4 foot horizontal pipe which takes a 90-degree turn into over 12 ft chimney

That's really short. My guess is the manual will say the stove needs a minimum of 15'. With the 90 degree bend in there you will have problems establishing good draft even with dry wood. I highly suggest to get it up to at least 15'.
 
So looking in the manual again:

• The maximum horizontal run should not exceed 3 ft.
(92 cm) with a 1/4” rise per foot.

So yeah, that may be part of the issue too, as well as poorly seasoned wood.
 
Yeah, that and with that horizontal run, elbow and short chimney no surprise here.

"The chimney must be at least 3 feet (92 cm) higher than
the highest point where it passes through the roof and at
least 2 feet (61 cm) higher than the highest part of the roof
or structure that is within 10 feet (3.05 m) of the chimney,
measured horizontally.
Chimneys shorter than 14 feet (4.27 m) may not provide
adequate draft. Inadequate draft can result in smoke
spillage when loading the stove, or when the door is open.
Poor draft can also cause back puffing (ignition of gas
build-up inside the firebox) and sluggish performance.
The minimum height does not, in itself, guarantee proper
chimney performance."
 
Well guys......i think we have established a few issues here. I'm going to look into a few things and see what i can do. I can't thank you enough for your help. More input is welcome.
 
This could be just weak draft due to the long horiz run going into a short chimney. Is there a 6" liner in the chimney? If not, what is the tile size there?

I'm a bit confused by the 4 ft horizontal run statement. Is this on the other side of the brick wall? If so how is this setup? In particular, besides the draft killing aspect I am concerned regarding safe clearances from the pipe.
 
Good enough, pics here would be very helpful. What is the liner ID in the chimney in the garage?
 
Ok, now that i am home...and thinking straight. The chimney is around 30 ft tall.....not sure how i came up with 12. It is tile lined and i believe it is 6''. Pictures below. Also i bought some dry wood and will test later...its 75 in the house atm.





 
You certainly have a bunch of issues here:

The wood is too wet and changing suppliers will probably not make much of a difference. Wood sold as "seasoned" rarely has a moisture content of less than 20% because very few firewood sellers have the time and space to stack the split wood for about 2 years. I suggest to keep the wood you have and stack it in a dry spot where it gets lots of sun and wind. It may then be ok by next winter. I would also buy several additional cords in the spring next year for the winter 16/17 (2 summers drying time). For this winter, try to find lumber scraps, pallets, and/or buy compressed wood logs (like Envi-blocks or Bio-bricks). You could maybe mix in some of your wet wood to reduce cost a bit.

You have a long horizontal run with two 90 degree elbows in there. Not sure how to fix that short of relocating the stove but it will make for a difficult draft.

The flue does not seem to have a steel liner and you would benefit greatly from an insulated 6" liner. What are the inner dimensions of the clay flue?
 
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