Reason for firebricks?

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GeneralBill

Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 30, 2009
92
Western OR
Just had my first firebrick (if that's the right name) break in half on the Summit. It seems to stay assembled fine as long as I'm not slamming oak splits into it. That made me wonder, why firebrick? Why not just bare metal and let more heat escape? I have not read anything that gives the purpose of these little maintenance items. They reduce firebox volume, too.

Looking at the design, it seems that most of the heat comes off of the top plate. Even worse, the flames often originate at the top, curl around the baffle, and then up and out the double wall. Seems like a longer heat transfer path could have been made.
 
It's refractory. It insulates the sides and bottom where your load sits. Burning right on top of steel long enough will cause it to bend and warp.
 
They also help to keep the firebox hotter for more efficient burns.
 
If the brick is on the side, it is easy to replace and on the bottom the crack will fill in quickly, no worries. Tim
 
The bricks are there for insulation to retain heat in the firebox for efficient burning. If the broken brick simply stays in place, just in two pieces, all is good. If you want to add some insurance, pull the two pieces out & slather some furnace cement on the broken face and push them back together, then replace the brick. If you find you have a brick (or bricks) that are just really busted, then get some replacement bricks. They are readily available, and easily cut, if necessary, using a masonry blade in a power tool, or a simple hand saw. As far as your observations of the gas flow through your stove go, I'd suggest addressing your concerns to the people who designed, built, and marketed your stove. Rick

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1366795&KPID=1109409&pla=pla_1109409
 
I have 2 bricks that cracked years ago, where the rear air ports are. they stay in place so i have not replaced them.
 
Makes me wonder, why slam splits into the firebrick? Our bricks are 5 seasons old and still hanging in there with no cracks.
 
Makes me wonder, why slam splits into the firebrick? Our bricks are 5 seasons old and still hanging in there with no cracks.

You don't drink near enough. ;lol
 
I'm working on it! ::-)
 
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I'm working on it! ::-)

At the DC get together I had Mike haul up a dozen, turned out there were only eleven in the box, bricks for spares. Only busted two in the 30 but figured spares ain't a bad thing since they use the old size that nobody carries anymore.

Got a spare 30, might as well have spare bricks. ;lol
 
Another trick that might work is if you have a bottom brick that matches the cracked brick just do a switcharoo. The cracked brick line will quickly fill with ash and be undetectable.
 
Makes me wonder, why slam splits into the firebrick? Our bricks are 5 seasons old and still hanging in there with no cracks.
I have to agree with this. I can't imagine tossing a split in the firebox so hard it smashes a brick. I feel like i'd have to be super pissed off or something to be jamming splits in there with that kind of force.
 
I cringe when I hear the "thunk" sometimes loading the 30 N/S. My old big insert didn't have firebrick in it and I am convinced that the weld that busted in the top back of the firebox was the result of shoving big splits into it too hard trying to avoid incinerating my hands.
 
bricks provide both protection to the body of the stove as well as thermal mass for heat retention. newer stoves have "refractory panels" which focus more heat inward to aid in cleaner burning.

BB I though you were chiting me, you really only got 11 bricks in that box? :mad: gawd it felt like 30 of em toting it around.;lol

guess next get together i'll be bringin brick. cant have that hanging over my head;em
 
I cringe when I hear the "thunk" sometimes loading the 30 N/S. My old big insert didn't have firebrick in it and I am convinced that the weld that busted in the top back of the firebox was the result of shoving big splits into it too hard trying to avoid incinerating my hands.
Get some gloves you old coot.
 
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Couple bucks a piece or so at tractor Supply - I used my angle grinder w a masonry wheel to cut them to fit when I took out the Plug and also replaced the notched one at the handle latch because a complete brick fits in my stove w/o effecting the latch so why not. The rest are on yr 3 with no problems
 
I have 2 bricks that cracked years ago, where the rear air ports are. they stay in place so i have not replaced them.
......got at least one. noticed it the other day. same here, as long as it doesn't fall out of place, its staying put till spring.
 
Another trick that might work is if you have a bottom brick that matches the cracked brick just do a switcharoo. The cracked brick line will quickly fill with ash and be undetectable.

Fossil: >pull the two pieces out & slather some furnace cement on the broken face and push them back together, then replace the brick.

Great ideas. Like ironspider, the crack is in back. When the stove gets serviced in "cool dock," I'll look into the repair.

PS. I really don't slam the pieces in. Although the whole process of felling, cutting, transport, splitting, stacking and burning is steeped in testosterone, there have been enough cases of "oops" that conscientious behavior was drilled in.
 
Firebricks seem fairly durable, but brittle. I cracked one at the back of my firebox when a hot bed of coals got the better of my hand and I ended up tossing rather than laying a big hickory split with a stub sticking out in there.
 
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There were a couple broken when I bought my 30. I used it as an excuse to talk HD down $100. I've never broken one.
 
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