Replacement Stove Install

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fdb16

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 20, 2010
19
SouthEast, Ma
I have had an old 70's model Hearthstone soapstone wood stove in the house I purchased. The previous owner overfired it at some point and warped the baffles, the doors dont close properly and the soapstone is cracked in places. So I decided to move this relic to the outdoors remove the front doors and use it in the garden area as an outdoor fireplace as it still looks amazing and I cant bring myself to junk it. On to my issue, this stove has an 8" stove pipe so the thimble is also 8". The new stove, england NC32 from the orange box is a 6" stove pipe. The chimney is brick with clay flue liner. The hearth is brick so the pass through is also through brick, i'm not sure if im using the correct terminology here.

When i removed the old stove pipe I noticed build up of creosote on the pass through to the chimney, as the stove pipe terminates at the brick hearth on the interior side of the house and the smoke would then pass through the masonry portion of the hearth to the chimney. This creosote is glazed. I have inspected the interior of the flue and have not identified any appreciable build up of creosote or any glazed creosote in the flue.

My intention is to clean the pass through build up and then purchase a section of 6" class a pipe to go through the masonry portion of the hearth/chimney, fill in the gap with mineral wool and attach to the connecting stove pipe as normal down to the stove. Where the stove pipe meets the class a pipe I will install a trim piece to cover the existing gap where the 8" pipe previously entered the hearth. After that is done I will use some ACS in the first couple fires then give this chimney a sweep as it looks pretty clean. Does this sound acceptable? Is this overkill? Should I just clean out the creosote add a reducer at the hearth to go from the 8" current hole to 6"? Will this mess with the draft?

I was thinking it would be better to keep it contained within a pipe all the way to the flue and that adding the class a pipe in the pass through would help maintain the temp of gases/smoke thus creating better draft up the chimney instead of hitting this bumpy horizontal void on the way to the chimney. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
 
I have had an old 70's model Hearthstone soapstone wood stove in the house I purchased. The previous owner overfired it at some point and warped the baffles, the doors dont close properly and the soapstone is cracked in places. So I decided to move this relic to the outdoors remove the front doors and use it in the garden area as an outdoor fireplace as it still looks amazing and I cant bring myself to junk it. On to my issue, this stove has an 8" stove pipe so the thimble is also 8". The new stove, england NC32 from the orange box is a 6" stove pipe. The chimney is brick with clay flue liner. The hearth is brick so the pass through is also through brick, i'm not sure if im using the correct terminology here. When i removed the old stove pipe I noticed build up of creosote on the pass through to the chimney, as the stove pipe terminates at the brick hearth on the interior side of the house and the smoke would then pass through the masonry portion of the hearth to the chimney. This creosote is glazed. I have inspected the interior of the flue and have not identified any appreciable build up of creosote or any glazed creosote in the flue. My intention is to clean the pass through build up and then purchase a section of 6" class a pipe to go through the masonry portion of the hearth/chimney, fill in the gap with mineral wool and attach to the connecting stove pipe as normal down to the stove. Where the stove pipe meets the class a pipe I will install a trim piece to cover the existing gap where the 8" pipe previously entered the hearth. After that is done I will use some ACS in the first couple fires then give this chimney a sweep as it looks pretty clean. Does this sound acceptable? Is this overkill? Should I just clean out the creosote add a reducer at the hearth to go from the 8" current hole to 6"? Will this mess with the draft? I was thinking it would be better to keep it contained within a pipe all the way to the flue and that adding the class a pipe in the pass through would help maintain the temp of gases/smoke thus creating better draft up the chimney instead of hitting this bumpy horizontal void on the way to the chimney. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
What type of wall does it pass through to get to the chimney? Is it solid masonry or is it a framed wall with the brick on one side and chimney on the other?
 
What type of wall does it pass through to get to the chimney? Is it solid masonry or is it a framed wall with the brick on one side and chimney on the other?
Its solid masonry, this is in the basement so it is passing through the foundation to the chimney.
 
Its solid masonry, this is in the basement so it is passing through the foundation to the chimney.
Ok that's a good start. What size are the clay liners?
 
I’m not sure, are you talking dimensional LxWxH? I would have to go up and measure.
Are the clay liners square or rectangle?
 
Ok, so would it be wide to install a smaller diameter class a in the flue? What kind of issues, it would not create enough draft?

thanks for the input
Installing an oval insulated stainless liner would be the best option.
 
Last questions, I see round and oval. Why oval over round? Also I assume single wall be sufficient.

Thanks for your help
Because round won't fit with the required insulation.