Scag walk behind
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smokinj
Minister of Fire
SolarAndWood said:
Can't comment much on the price, but that sounds like it would be well suited for what you describe. I used to run a toro walk-behind quite a bit and it was great. As Jay said, scag makes quality machines.
If it has less than 2000 hours on it it should last you a long time as a homeowner.
Depends on the hours, size deck, belt or hydro drive, maintenance done, and general condition (tires, deck rust, ect). For a 48 inch deck anywhere from $800-$1,800. 36 deck, anywhere from $700-$1,500.
btuser
Minister of Fire
From here that mower looks to be in excellent shape. I've seen them so rusty you can see the blades through the deck. I bought a used walk-behind for the same situation as yourself 10 years ago, and other than a few corners I've scraped on boulders and granite edging I'm guessing my mower would last 100+ years under the same load, or until the world runs out of grass. These things are made TO BE RUN HARD, almost nothing a homeowner can do will tax it. Figure 1000hrs/year for your average commercial mower x 10 years with a few motors in between. Depends on a lot but that's nowhere near out-site the realm of possibility.
Have a shop give it a look-see, otherwise it depends on your own knowledge of these things. Scag defiantly a top-tier mower with a bomb-proof reputation. Some of the thickest/toughest decks sold. Check the belts, spindles (bearing devices with pulleys that turn the blades), check the motor which is by far the most expensive part to replace, and see if it runs/drives true and good. other than that it depends on the asking price.
Have a shop give it a look-see, otherwise it depends on your own knowledge of these things. Scag defiantly a top-tier mower with a bomb-proof reputation. Some of the thickest/toughest decks sold. Check the belts, spindles (bearing devices with pulleys that turn the blades), check the motor which is by far the most expensive part to replace, and see if it runs/drives true and good. other than that it depends on the asking price.
btuser
Minister of Fire
36" with a 12hp Kohler? High hours, ugly but still running good $500. Low hour, new engine, no real rust and runs tight could be higher and closer to a grand or more. (what's it worth to me I guess, or what I would expect to get myself.) 36" is nice for getting through a gate.
asking $650, sounds like he is in the range?
My old JD front mow needs about that put into it and it is at the point that not putting the money into it makes mowing a pain in the neck. But, it is 60" and you can park your a$$ on it while you mow. I've been looking to combine my old 30hp 4wd compact Ford and mower into one machine. However, the requirement to mow really limits the tractor options without spending a lot of dough.
My old JD front mow needs about that put into it and it is at the point that not putting the money into it makes mowing a pain in the neck. But, it is 60" and you can park your a$$ on it while you mow. I've been looking to combine my old 30hp 4wd compact Ford and mower into one machine. However, the requirement to mow really limits the tractor options without spending a lot of dough.
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Seems reasonable to me if the engine and deck check out...looks to be a belt drive so there's no hydro pumps or motors to worry about. Only problem with buying a mower this time of year is you can't truly test it. It might seem fine, but when you get into thick grass they can behave totally different.
If spindles are quiet and it starts on the first few pulls without any major rust, jump on that.
Can you get one of those little two wheeled tow-behind deals I see the landscape maintenance guys using, so you don't have to walk behind it, you just stand there and ride along with it? That'd be sweet for an acre. Needs a cup holder, too. Rick
btuser
Minister of Fire
I agree with the velke (sulke, whatever) but definitely get the two wheel variety. I've had a few instances with the one-wheel variety when backing up and it would twist, almost broke my ankle.
fossil said:
yep, and I have a couple topo lines on that acre. The JD has a diff lock that gets used every time I mow no matter how dry it is.
Solar, my thoughts on CWB (Commercial Walk-Behinds)
Scag makes great machines, usually. But they have made a couple turds. Belt-driven 52" walk-behinds are machines to stay away from. The deck is too heavy for the traction unit and they EAT transmissions for breakfast, lunch, dinner and a midnight snack. With any of Scag's fixed deck units, check out the bolt holes where the deck attaches to the frame. Often times they can get "egged out". Common on the bigger units.
That 12.5 Kohler is a proven winner of a motor. Not much HP but on 36" it should do OK. Do I like the Kawi's a bit better? Only if it's a twin! ;-)
You mentioned you run the diff lock on the Deere, if your terrain is really that rough, I urge you to look for a hydro-driven unit instead of the belt drive.
Belt Drive Pro's
Cheap! and plenty of them out there.
Belt Drive Con's
No real reverse (except in very rare cases). It's an "assist" but it won't back up hills or ramps.
Maintenance costs. Belts, Drive pulleys, transmission repairs are all pretty common repairs with these.
Why I love Hydro Walk-Behinds
They are billy goats on hills. Unstoppable.
Unbeatable for maneuvering in tight areas. Think gear shift on a lawn tractor vs. hydro.
Relatively few repair/maintenance points to the drive system. Pumps and motors are typically very reliable and no mechanical "consumables". Well, maybe an oil filter. (Service interval is loooong, 500+ hrs)
Finally, a quick word on sulkies/velkies.
One wheel or two wheel (or no wheels!) doesn't matter. What does matter is how the unit attaches. Trailer types are miserable to back up with due to the very flexible connections. The best ones are rigidly fixed to the machine and allowed to pivot vertically only. They usually are either the Pro-Slide type (a sled really) or have caster wheels.
The absolute best/easiest way to kill the trans on a belt driven CWB is to put a sulky on it. The extra weight is more than the machine was designed for and most OEMS do not recommend sulkies on belt-driven models. Should be no problem on a hydro tho. The same considerations factor in when using a larger grass catcher on a belt-drive unit too.
Another brand (and IMO the best for walk-behinds by far) is Exmark. Another proven winner of a machine, I really like the simplicity of the Metro (belt-drive) and the durability/reliability of any of their machines. Cut quality is second to none. Look for the ECS handles (most have 'em) on their units. Much more comfy than pistol grips and safer too! Pistol grips can be knuckle busters in tight areas around walls/buildings. Absolutely awesome hydro walk-behinds too. Look for a Viking or Turf Tracer HP. The 36" machines are relatively rare in any form but there should be scads of 48" units out there.
Scag makes great machines, usually. But they have made a couple turds. Belt-driven 52" walk-behinds are machines to stay away from. The deck is too heavy for the traction unit and they EAT transmissions for breakfast, lunch, dinner and a midnight snack. With any of Scag's fixed deck units, check out the bolt holes where the deck attaches to the frame. Often times they can get "egged out". Common on the bigger units.
That 12.5 Kohler is a proven winner of a motor. Not much HP but on 36" it should do OK. Do I like the Kawi's a bit better? Only if it's a twin! ;-)
You mentioned you run the diff lock on the Deere, if your terrain is really that rough, I urge you to look for a hydro-driven unit instead of the belt drive.
Belt Drive Pro's
Cheap! and plenty of them out there.
Belt Drive Con's
No real reverse (except in very rare cases). It's an "assist" but it won't back up hills or ramps.
Maintenance costs. Belts, Drive pulleys, transmission repairs are all pretty common repairs with these.
Why I love Hydro Walk-Behinds
They are billy goats on hills. Unstoppable.
Unbeatable for maneuvering in tight areas. Think gear shift on a lawn tractor vs. hydro.
Relatively few repair/maintenance points to the drive system. Pumps and motors are typically very reliable and no mechanical "consumables". Well, maybe an oil filter. (Service interval is loooong, 500+ hrs)
Finally, a quick word on sulkies/velkies.
One wheel or two wheel (or no wheels!) doesn't matter. What does matter is how the unit attaches. Trailer types are miserable to back up with due to the very flexible connections. The best ones are rigidly fixed to the machine and allowed to pivot vertically only. They usually are either the Pro-Slide type (a sled really) or have caster wheels.
The absolute best/easiest way to kill the trans on a belt driven CWB is to put a sulky on it. The extra weight is more than the machine was designed for and most OEMS do not recommend sulkies on belt-driven models. Should be no problem on a hydro tho. The same considerations factor in when using a larger grass catcher on a belt-drive unit too.
Another brand (and IMO the best for walk-behinds by far) is Exmark. Another proven winner of a machine, I really like the simplicity of the Metro (belt-drive) and the durability/reliability of any of their machines. Cut quality is second to none. Look for the ECS handles (most have 'em) on their units. Much more comfy than pistol grips and safer too! Pistol grips can be knuckle busters in tight areas around walls/buildings. Absolutely awesome hydro walk-behinds too. Look for a Viking or Turf Tracer HP. The 36" machines are relatively rare in any form but there should be scads of 48" units out there.
Thanks for the feedback MM. Due to the slopes, I spend a lot of time backing up with the diff lock on. Makes me think that a belly mower would be problematic as well. I would more than likely have to either do dangerous things or a lot of trimming with the push mower. Sounds like I should either put the money into the F910 or keep an eye out for a deal on a 1145. I am reluctant to put the money into the 910 as it was rough when I picked it up at an auction 5 years ago and I haven't done anything more than fix what failed since. It is a a tank, runs and mows but needs a lot of love.
Either way, it seems that trying to combine the compact tractor/loader with the mower doesn't make a whole lot of sense for me.
Either way, it seems that trying to combine the compact tractor/loader with the mower doesn't make a whole lot of sense for me.
Plus 1 on the exmark. Cut quality is supreme...its made by toro. I beat mine up commercially and it takes it all. No matter what brand, you'll fill that bag in about 30 seconds if your lawn is thick like you say. Bag plus sulky equals worn out 100 dollar drive belts or 400 dollar trannies.
Definitely a challenge to mow unless it is bone dry and you don't mind doing the steep stuff with a push mower. 3/4 of a mile is 600' down. The garden terraces I built are 40' wide and the retaining walls are over 6' in places. I stoned the ramp I built this year because I couldn't keep it from washing out. The heap is over 12' at its peak and is just higher than the side street. Seems like the machine I have might be the ticket until I get a lot more grading work done.
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Ditch those turf tires or chain them up. That will help a lot. In a steep hill situation you are going to tear up the turf regardless...might as well tear it up getting traction with aggressive tires instead of tearing it up spinning out turf tires.
Back in my landscape days, we had an old Zipper front deck mower (kinda the same thing you have there) that we chained up for mowing a steep hillside. Worked good and didn't hurt the grass too bad unless you tried to turn on a dime and head uphill.
Back in my landscape days, we had an old Zipper front deck mower (kinda the same thing you have there) that we chained up for mowing a steep hillside. Worked good and didn't hurt the grass too bad unless you tried to turn on a dime and head uphill.
I have a Scag 48 deck with 15 hp. Bought it used for $ 700. In 4 years, I've replaced the drive belt twice. It's cheap and easy to do. I have no grass catcher, I use mulching blades. As for the deck belts and the turning belts - I've had no problems. The drive belt can get alittle torned up in rough areas, like if I use it to bush hog some of my bottom land - Mine doesn't have a skid plate so the pulley and belt are exposed underneath.
I got it because my yard is also steep and I fear mowing with a rider - it would flip. Even this Scag walks on me sometimes on my hills. I mow about 3 acres with it and YES I bought a Velke. I have used it without the Velke and it's a work out. The belts don't slip on the inclines and theres no need for chains or BMX tires. These mowers are very well balanced and perform excellent.
Good luck.
I got it because my yard is also steep and I fear mowing with a rider - it would flip. Even this Scag walks on me sometimes on my hills. I mow about 3 acres with it and YES I bought a Velke. I have used it without the Velke and it's a work out. The belts don't slip on the inclines and theres no need for chains or BMX tires. These mowers are very well balanced and perform excellent.
Good luck.
basswidow said:
Cool thx. All of these discussions need to be balanced with how many hours get put on the machine every year. The guys making money with these machines probably put at least twice as much on them in a week as I do in a year. I might put 20 on mine per year?
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