Scan Anderson 10 install questions

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Jonny Cache

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Feb 23, 2013
1
I purchased a Scan Anderson 10 stove over a year ago and am now at a point in my remodel to where I want to hook it up. For parallel to the wall installations the owner's manual only lists dimensions using single wall pipe(9.5" stove to wall, 13" pipe to wall). Where I hoped to place the stove would have the pipe running smack into a roof joist with those measurements. Almost EVERY other wood stove lists reduced clearances when using double wall pipe (in fact they DO list double wall pipe measurements, but only for corner installations) but not this one. I will gladly use double wall pipe if I could get it to 10" away from the wall. Any hope for me or do I need to look elsewhere to place my stove?
 
What about moving an inch or two away from the wall? I believe the national code lists 12 inches for the flue pipe no matter what. There is a link to the code here though exactly where escapes me at the moment. Better to be safer than end up with a problem. You can always offset away from the joist with the flue pipe I had to with mine and it works just fine. Don't forget the clearances for the double wall to combustible material as well you can not just move a couple of inches and have the double wall a half inch away from the joist. If the stove is off the wall a bit the heat will circulate a bit better as well with better air circulation around it.
 
I had to use a couple of 45 deg. elbows to get my stove to line up with an existing chimney.
You could do the same, they would offset the pipe 6" if you butt them together. If you need more put a piece of pipe between them.
You could use double wall (I did) but you will still have to honor the stove to wall clearance.
There's a couple of us on here that have this stove so if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
From what I've found it's easy to operate but it doesn't like wet wood.
 
I have a pretty tight installation as well. One of the nice things about the A10 is it has really good heat shields on the back and bottom of the stove. With my installation I had to go up and out to get into an existing chase. There was a ceiling joist directly above the horizontal turn into the wall. I built a heat shield out of cold rolled sheet steel. It is held off the wall and ceiling with 1" square tubing. The ceiling part actually has two layers with a 1/2" space between them. I felt the holes I punched at the mantle and top front edge would allow air to naturally circulate. I used dura rock rather than Sheetrock as well. I also installed a thermometer probe against the joist directly above the horizontal pipe. When I have my stove fully running, the temp against framing above the stove is never more than 10 degrees warmer than room temperature. I can place my hand against the heat shield on the wall behind the stove and it just feels slightly warm. I used single wall pipe to the wall pass through, using double wall pipe would reduce temps even more. With flue gas temps running 600 degrees, the surface of the heat shield is 105 on the wall and and 185 directly above the elbow. 1 inch above that it's 78 so I know the heat shield is working as designed. Definitely, you want to maintain proper clearances to the roof framing. image.jpg image.jpg
 
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