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Schematic for Whitfield II control board - Knobs

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Crash_144, Nov 13, 2012.

  1. Crash_144

    Crash_144 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2012
    Messages:
    2
    I bought this from a guy who knew not what he does...

    After going through the rats-nest of wires he had to try to rig up the auger motor, I had everthing working, except the auger.

    I pulled the board and found a burnt resistor.....really burnt...cant read the color code on it.
    (Outlined in red in the picture)

    Could really use any help I could get here..

    Thanks !!!

    Pellet Stove Burnt Resistor.jpg Pellet Stove Control Panel Plate.jpg

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  2. Stovensen

    Stovensen Feeling the Heat

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    294
    Loc:
    Denmark, EU
    Hi Crash_144,

    Welcome to the forum. The schematics for these controlboards are impossible to find... I've tried for years:(
    So, we will never find a diagram with the exact value of the burnt resistor on your your pcb.
    But, there is still hope...
    Do you have an ohm-meter? I hope you have, because with a little luck, the resistor may still have its original ohm-value.
    But be careful not to bend it or otherwise expose it to any physical stress while measuring, as it is likely VERY fragile in the present state.

    Other components connected to the resistor are most likely faulty as well, since a resistor only gets that hot when something is very bad. Hmm, you said that everything works except auger motor... that's good news. Try to trace the augerterminals on the pcb backwards... that might lead to the resistor and surrounding components. On my Quest Plus stove the two blowers are controlled by the triacs with heatsinks and the auger motor is also controlled by a triac, but this has no heatsink. I count three components on your photo that look like triacs.

    Check for correct function of the auger motor by applying 120 volts directly to it with some test cables. If, say, the windings on the auger motor are fried, this could have led to the fall of both the triac and the resistor.
    Take care when working with naked grid voltage!! If you haven't tried this before, please let an experienced person do it.
    Also check the wiring for any short circuits.

    Good luck and keep us posted
    Bo
  3. Crash_144

    Crash_144 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2012
    Messages:
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    Hey Bo,

    The auger motor is new, and I did for gp hook it up direct to make sure it was good.

    In talking to the old owner again, he had left the back plate off the stove, and his 2 rotwieller puppies chewed all the wires up. He didn't find this out until he went to turn it on a few weeks ago and it zapped...dead shorted auger motor wires.

    I found the burnt resistor on my 3rd time going through the board, as its in a pretty hard to see place. I already desoldered it, but I was extreamly careful, as not to bend or put pressure on it, hoping to keep it all in tact so I could read it. I had heard about possibly being able to still get a reading on it, like you said, and will try it today.

    Im not an electronic curcuit person, per say, but many years working for Raido Shack when I was younger, I can read and replace componants (Just recapped the power section of my 20 inch monitor..works like a charm)

    I really appreciate your quick response!! I was reading this fourm for a week before I decided to give it a try...seems I'm not the only one who doesn't want to spend 300-400 on a new board!

    I also got a response from SSAC. It was kind of "we really cant help you, but if send the board number, who knows"...so I'm gonna try that route too. Hell, I even posted the pictures on FB..asking if anyone has this controller, if they could take a picture of their board, or read the resistor for me, I would make a donation to the Red Cross in their name.

    Again, Thanks for the help...and I'll keep this thing updated!

    Tom
  4. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2008
    Messages:
    13,350
    Loc:
    Standish, ME
    Tom,

    Use this link to contact hearth.com member Snowy Rivers http://www.hearth.com/talk/conversations/add?to=Snowy Rivers .

    She replaced the controls on her two Whits with one of her own design made from available stock off the shelf parts, she likely also has some old stuff about the older stoves. I'm just not sure about if it would be anything for your particular Whit.

    ETA: Then there is Dave:

    My new email address is pcboardrepair@gmail.com

    Stop wasting your money and send it to the expert for repair.
    Quick turnaround. All work guaranteed.

    I repair all Whitfield pellet stove control boards. A Advantage II-T (WP2) control board is shown operating in this video.

    I also repair other makes such as Breckwell, Earth Stove, Winch Perfecta and others.

    email:
    pcboardrepair@gmail.com

    skype:
    pcbrepairs
  5. Bryanmcn

    Bryanmcn New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    2
    Hi Crash
    I have the exact same control board with the exact same problem. I accidentally shorted the Auger terminals and the resister blew. Did you ever find out the
    value of the resister?

    Bryan
  6. tyler886

    tyler886 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2013
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    Loc:
    RI
    Has anyone successfully figured out the value of this resistor on the board? I have the same issue with an Advantage and dont want to spend $300+ for replacement. Its a $.03 resistor if anyone can ID it.

    If no one has figured it out, does anyone happen to have a good board with an unburnt resistor they could look at?
  7. Speed Demon

    Speed Demon New Member

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    Canada
    Just joined to answer this question. Its a 2.7kohm resistor. Camera problems, so no flash, but its Red, Violet, Red, Gold.
    20150123_185701.jpg
  8. Stovensen

    Stovensen Feeling the Heat

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    Nice find, S.D. Thanks for sharing the info. This will be useful for others in the same situation. Remember, however, that a resistor burns for some reason... in the OP Crash_144's case it was the dogs of the previous owner that had been chewing in the wiring inside the stove!!! causing a short on the auger wires.
  9. Snowy Rivers

    Snowy Rivers Minister of Fire

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    NW Oregon
    My old boards are way different.

    The Advantge II T and the Prodigy are way different.

    I designed my controller way on the simple side.

    Used an infitec repeat cycle timer for the auger.
    It has the run time adjust on the timer and a remote pot for the off time (heat range)

    I built a resistor pack to give me 10-8-5 seconds off time

    Used a 10 amp blower speed controller for the fan

    I have a one shot timer set up with the resistor terminals open to force the timer to run indefinitely, and this acts as a latchout and shuts tings off in a power outage with a reset required.

    I fused everything separately
    Auger 2 amps
    Draft fan 3 amps
    Room fan 3 amps
    Main fuse 7-1/2 amps

    The timer is rated at 10 amps
    A 2 amp fuse can fry and not hurt the timer.

    Here is an exterior shot
    http://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/prodigy-panel-jpg.149364/

    The panel hangs on the wall by the stove

    This package should be pretty much bomb proof.
    The timers are all plug and play.

    This is off the shelf industrial stuff all the way.

    HD SWITCHES AND SUCH.

    All rated for waaaaaaaaaay more than it will ever see.
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  10. Speed Demon

    Speed Demon New Member

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    I'm trying to fix one of these boards for a friend. It's the first time I've worked on this board. The problem I'm having is with the adjustable blower speed control. I'm testing it on the bench with a small fan as a load for the blower circuit. When measured with a DMM the voltage output to the blower with the blower speed control knob fully CCW (minimum), reads around 58VAC. This is fine, but as the knob is turned CW and the speed is increased, the voltage gets to about 80VAC (around half way position) then craps-out to around 20VAC. At the same time, the DC voltage on the IC's instantly drops from the typical 15VDC to 11VDC. I have a feeling the DC voltage shouldn't be dropping by such a large value but, I'm not too sure where to go from here. Any pointers on what to check would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Snowy Rivers

    Snowy Rivers Minister of Fire

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    From what I have heard, the triacs on these boards are flakey and notorious for just what your seeing

    The usual failure is the fan burns up.

    My old Advantage board would do the same thing.

    I found a sweet spot where the fan was stable and did not whine, then left it alone

    After messing with these a while I decided the best plan was a fresh start.
  12. Snowy Rivers

    Snowy Rivers Minister of Fire

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    Sadly, some of the components are not straight off the shelf.

    As was previously mentioned, a detailed schematic with the REAL USEFUL DATA are simply not available.

    Lennox likely has all this stuff, but they are sure not going to fax you over a copy.

    Trying to figure out the board is not all that hard, just trying to come up with parts that will work to repair it will be.

    The stuff like resistors, capacitors and such are easy (fairly so) but the little mini triac and such is going to likely be impossible.

    These boards were a proprietary design, and were contracted out.

    The best part is, the fans, and auger are just 120V powered units and will work happily with whatever you toss together to run them.

    Any AC motor rated speed control will get that part done fine.

    The auger could care less what sends it a shot of 120v or for how long

    The sad part is that the original boards were built on the cheap, and this concept has continued to this day.

    The OEM did not want parts to be available off the shelf to repair the unit, and they also wanted complete source control of as much as possible

    Companies like infitec and precision timer used to supply the same stuff I am using to the major OEM's but this allowed those of us who had it scoped, to buy the needed part far cheaper than the OEM.


    Good luck with the repair


    Snowy

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