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Slight Problem 25pvdc...

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by ResQmedic121, Apr 11, 2008.

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  1. ResQmedic121

    ResQmedic121 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2008
    Messages:
    40
    Loc:
    Johnsonville NY
    I'm a Paramedic and over the last two days while I've been working the stove my wife is using for the nights which in Upstate NY are still down 20-30 degree range. She started it the other night the flame went out, tried it again and same thing... 6 times later she gave up. Tried last night took off first try and burned for 1 hr and then flamed out. This I have fixed before with noticing bad pellets, clean the fire box stuff like that but Hi's time some things are weird...
    1. Excessive pellets in the Firebox like 10-15 handfulls
    2. "singing" Like a bad or close to bad bearing noise when you close the stove door which goes away when you place a Aim N Flame near the two little air intake holes by the bottom of the ASH SHELF I guess you would call it and it goes away. ( I used the Aim N flame to see if it was drawing air)
    3. Possible Vac switch if so how do I check it?
    4. I turned up the low fuel and air settings like 2 points and the stove is now burning O.K. but time will tell.

    Any though, concerns, comments

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  2. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2006
    Messages:
    5,826
    Loc:
    madison hgts. va
    ok , first do you get an error message if so what message?

    next if you are not geting an error message , check the door open vac port. (this is a small hole just to the right of the burn pot (outside the pot) on the back wall of the front of the stove) if this hole is restricted the top auger can stop feeding once the stove gets hot. if this hole is clear, remove the back panel and locate the door vacuum switch, this is a round switch that is black on one side and gray on the other. there are 2 wires connected to it and a third terminal that is empty, there are also 2 hose ports but only one is used. the correct setup is with the hose connected to the gray nipple and the wires plugged to the "c" and the "no" if you look at the switch and consider the hose connections to be "12 oclock" the terminals used are the 6 oclock position, and the 2 oclock position. to test the circuit , move the hose to the "black" nipple and move the "no" wire to the "nc" position , or , move the 2 oclock wire to the 10 oclock position. this will bypass that switch , see then if the stove will run , if it does, either the hose is plugged wher you cannot se it (remove it and clear) or the switch is bad (use in this setup until you can get a replacement switch from ESW) the stove is safe to use with the door switch bypassed but will continue to feed if the door is opened (which shouldnt be a problem)

    let me know if you run into a problem with this and i'll help you through it.
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