Splitter wedges

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Jamess67

Feeling the Heat
Nov 19, 2007
358
Central Illinois
Does anyone have pictures of a good splitter wedge design? I have a standard 6" wedge on the ram, and it doesnt separate the splits very well.
I want to modify mine so it is more agressive. I have a mod in mind but I would like to get some more input before I start welding.
Thanks
 
This works good on my homemade splitter. "C" channel is 5" I believe (may be 4"). The wedge itself is the cutting edge of a dozer blade. 1/4" steel plate opens em up pretty quickly.
 

Attachments

  • Log Splitter 04.jpg
    Log Splitter 04.jpg
    7.1 KB · Views: 1,711
I have some, 21 images to be exact and some detailed drawings that I gave to my metal guy to cut up the metal to make this: PM me if you want he entire set. The wedge works very well.
 

Attachments

  • IMGP2314web.jpg
    IMGP2314web.jpg
    35.3 KB · Views: 1,056
I would simply add a more aggressive wedge to the back of the existing wedge leaving access to be able to take it off the ram if I needed to for any reason.
 
Alberta, That is same basic shape I have now and like you I will just add on to the wings and increase the width of my wedge by 3-4 inches. Also the angle will be starting sooner in relation to the tip of the wedge. Thanks for the pics guys. Ill post pics of my own when its done.
 
My wedge is 8 inches wide at the back and is a simple triangle. The only downside I see over the skinny wedges is in real stringy or gnarly rounds. It tends to blow them up as opposed to slicing through them.
 
James you may also want to shape the leading edge of the wedge so that it does not contact the wood all at the same time, you will notice that in the second picture the leading edge contacts the top of the wood first. Also I think this helps to keep the wood on the beam by pushing down a bit as it cuts into the wood.
 
Alberta Burner said:
James you may also want to shape the leading edge of the wedge so that it does not contact the wood all at the same time, you will notice that in the second picture the leading edge contacts the top of the wood first. Also I think this helps to keep the wood on the beam by pushing down a bit as it cuts into the wood.

I really like the downwards tilt idea
 
The Down tilt I like better than what is on my splitter now which is opposite and about double the angle. It does cause chunks to come popping out or just slid up the face with out getting anything done.
 
The only issue if the angle was too severe and you had a tough piece, is that you now have forces in a direction that were not anticipated in the original splitter design. Those forces can quickly become significant when you're pushing 25 tons of force around. That maybe the reason the angle is the opposite in your original wedge - it keeps the wedge firmly on the bed.
 
Well here it is.
100_3066.jpg


And again

100_3064.jpg


100_3065.jpg


Before I painted it this is what I tested it out on. Its a truck section of a maple with a little hidden surprise. Now wonder I couldnt bust it up with my maul!!!

100_3067.gif


Yes that is a suction filter (160 micron) I added to strain out the gunk from when I built it. . Performance isnt effected and according to my engineer friends at work cavitation shouldnt be an issue. And yes for now... those are black pipe fittings on the low pressure side. To be updated soon.
 
Does the second table get in the way with the big rounds?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.