I have 8" kiln dried pine shiplap on the way. I'm thinking that I will set up a paint booth and spray it all before I install it. Any reason not to do this?
Stain wood siding before it is installed?
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midwestcoast
Minister of Fire
Based on my limited experience finishing new doors, windows, trim, interior panelling... in my place, staining before installing is a good idea!
semipro
Minister of Fire
I'd do it before hanging it and do the backside also.
Here's a link to a discussion at the Fine Homebuilding Site:
http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/breaktime/construction-techniques/back-priming-cedar-bevel-siding
Here's a link to a discussion at the Fine Homebuilding Site:
http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/breaktime/construction-techniques/back-priming-cedar-bevel-siding
Semipro said:
That's the plan. Seal all surfaces and a lot less work than doing just the exposed surface after its installed. I haven't read anything that says that there is any downside to it. I've just never seen it done and wonder why.
Tarmsolo60
Feeling the Heat
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Def stain prior to install.
If you seal the back also, you will keep the wood from breathing and could cause it to dry rot &/or rot due to this.
Just my 2 cents.
If you seal the back also, you will keep the wood from breathing and could cause it to dry rot &/or rot due to this.
Just my 2 cents.
Hey Hogz, how's the recovery coming? So even with kiln dried, you worry about it rotting if completely sealed? Or are you worried about the inevitable void in the stain that lets moisture in but not out?
As these guys say do all sides prior to installation. Then when you are installing makes sure all cut ends and rips get stained. We keep a foam brush and a can of stain next to the chop saw and hit any raw wood before it's nailed up.
I like to use an oil based stain for the first coat, then latex after that.
I like to use an oil based stain for the first coat, then latex after that.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
SolarAndWood said:
Healed up pretty well. Still have the lump from the scare tissue, and the area is still numb, but much better than before the op, and much better than the first couple weeks after.
Wood is wood, it needs to breath somewhat, expands & contracts etc.
sealing the back also might cause moisture & rot problems down the road. I don't understand why you would want to waste the extra materials & money, as the back side will never see the weather.
The more solid the stain, the less it breaths. Ever see a cedar shingled home with the cedar shakes painted? They literally rot out from the underside because they don't breath. Happens even faster on the roof due to the added heat from the underside.
Remember, wood has to move some.
These are just my opinions from things I have seen and learned when I was in the roofing trade.
I never seen siding that the back was painted or sealed. You should use Tyvek or tarpaper as a vapor barrier behind the siding though.
Glad to hear you are healing up. I'm running felt over the sheathing, then an inch of XPS, then Tyvek. I've read that sealing the kiln dried pine will make it last forever. Once I have the booth set up and start spraying, doing both sides is maybe $100 more in stain and very little extra effort.
Stain it before you hang it. Easier, less mess, and if the boards shrink at all then you will not see the unpainted line.
kenny chaos
Minister of Fire
Most stains won't seal wood so do the back if you need to spend the extra $100.
Never 'paint' both sides as moisture WILL get in and need someplace to go.
If one is lucky, it just causes the paint to peel.
Never 'paint' both sides as moisture WILL get in and need someplace to go.
If one is lucky, it just causes the paint to peel.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
semipro
Minister of Fire
Many stain makers recommend brushing their finishes on as it helps the stain penetrate better. I believe some makers, like Sikkens, won't warranty it if you don't brush it on. I've found that brushing does seem to yield a better finish especially on the rough side of the siding. But, brushing it on is a pain so you may want to consider spraying the finish on (for speed) and then going over it with a brush to aid penetration. Maybe you could spray only the back side and spray and brush the front.
John the Painter
Member
After painting both the rough and smooth sides of that and similar siding I say to put on a stain (The company I work for uses a product called Flood see link below..It's kind of like a hybrid of oil and latex.And it lasts.15 year guarantee.) on the rough side using a brush. 1 The rough surface will hold the stain better and 2 the brush will work the stain into the wood better than spraying will.I wouldn't do the back side of it as like you and others have stated it will move and there's no need of any moisture that could get in have nowhere to go.This is just my opinion and experience.I'm sure others have done things different but still had success. Good Luck.
http://www.flood.com/index.jsp
http://www.flood.com/index.jsp
I sprayed/back brushed about a third of it yesterday before I ran out of drying space. I'll get that batch installed and then do another round the end of this week when it is supposed to be a little warmer. I wish I had gotten to it a couple months ago as I went through 10 gallons of Kerosene just to keep the 600 sq ft space I sheeted off in the 50s.
SolarAndWood said:
That shiplap pine looks great! What stain did you end up going with? Are you doing all 6 sides?
I know its too late now but I heard Chevron Shake and Shingle Oil is a great product for siding. I think I am going to try it on the cedar siding for my garage. I saw someone mention Sikkens which is great product also but a lot of maintenance. It is a breathable stain/sealer all in one. I used in on a lot of outdoor products i used to make in my spare time. Here is one:
I sprayed all 6 and back brushed the rough side. It's a nice material to work with. The only problem I ran into is that I have to hand nail as I am going over an inch of foam and couldn't get the gun to play nice. That is a great looking table.
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