Stihl 290 start problem

[nate379]

I have a Stihl 290 that I bought last year brand new.

I haven't used it that much, maybe run 4-5 tanks of fuel through it. Since new it's been a real pain to get started when it's cold. I never counted pulls, but I would guess 8-10 pulls. Also when I run low on fuel, same situation. I don't let the saw run out... first hint that it bogs I shut it down and refuel. Runs great otherwise and it will fire first pull when it's warm.

I used it this weekend and it reminded me of how much of a pain it is to fire it up. I had brand new fuel so not a problem with that.

Is this normal?? I've never had to crank that much on any other saw, though I think most of them had primer bulbs.

 

[NCPABill]

I don't know about your 290, or any 290 for that matter, but here's what I do:
1. Hold throttle while setting choke.
2. Pull until it "coughs".
3. Hit throttle once to release choke.
4. Pull until it runs.
5. Let idle for a minute or so.

Like I said, no guarantee, but this seems to work with saws, bikes (back when I had them), string trimmers, blowers, 2-stroke

Good luck,

Bill

 

[quads]

In addition to what Bill has said above, take the fuel cap off and check the position of the fuel filter. I have had mine wedge itself towards the upper portion of the tank and cause problems. Poke your finger in there and push it down into the far lower corner of the tank.

 

[nate379]

Yup that is what I do.

I don't know about your 290, or any 290 for that matter, but here's what I do:
1. Hold throttle while setting choke.
2. Pull until it "coughs".
3. Hit throttle once to release choke.
4. Pull until it runs.
5. Let idle for a minute or so.

Like I said, no guarantee, but this seems to work with saws, bikes (back when I had them), string trimmers, blowers, 2-stroke

Good luck,

Bill

 

[nate379]

Will cehck

In addition to what Bill has said above, take the fuel cap off and check the position of the fuel filter. I have had mine wedge itself towards the upper portion of the tank and cause problems. Poke your finger in there and push it down into the far lower corner of the tank.

 

[mayhem]

Just read the starting procedure online, looks surprisingly complicated because the master switch has 4 positions, but I notice it does not seem to have an extra choke mechanism.

Manual says for new motors to squeeze the throttle 3 times to prime the fuel line. Press decompression switch, move master control switch to cold start (bottom position), pull until it does a pop fire, move switch to warm start (one position up) and pull till it starts.

There is also reference in the manual to setting up the saw for cold weather operation (below 50F) where you have to pop the prefilter out and rotate a part by the plug 180 degrees to channel warm air to the carb to help prevent icing. Wondering if your saw is setup for your current conditions.

For a new saw I think you're having to work too hard to get it going...maybe the carb needs tweaking?

 

[smokinj]

I have a Stihl 290 that I bought last year brand new.

I haven't used it that much, maybe run 4-5 tanks of fuel through it. Since new it's been a real pain to get started when it's cold. I never counted pulls, but I would guess 8-10 pulls. Also when I run low on fuel, same situation. I don't let the saw run out... first hint that it bogs I shut it down and refuel. Runs great otherwise and it will fire first pull when it's warm.

I used it this weekend and it reminded me of how much of a pain it is to fire it up. I had brand new fuel so not a problem with that.

Is this normal?? I've never had to crank that much on any other saw, though I think most of them had primer bulbs.

Tell me exactly pull by pull what you are doing?

 

[nate379]

No decompression lever on MS290. That is only bigger saws.

 

[nate379]

This:
master control switch to cold start, pull until it does a pop fire, move switch to warm start (one position up) and pull till it starts.

I have a Stihl 290 that I bought last year brand new.

I haven't used it that much, maybe run 4-5 tanks of fuel through it. Since new it's been a real pain to get started when it's cold. I never counted pulls, but I would guess 8-10 pulls. Also when I run low on fuel, same situation. I don't let the saw run out... first hint that it bogs I shut it down and refuel. Runs great otherwise and it will fire first pull when it's warm.

I used it this weekend and it reminded me of how much of a pain it is to fire it up. I had brand new fuel so not a problem with that.

Is this normal?? I've never had to crank that much on any other saw, though I think most of them had primer bulbs.

Tell me exactly pull by pull what you are doing?

 

[mayhem]

Leave it on cold start after it pops and see if it helps.

 

[smokinj]

This:
master control switch to cold start, pull until it does a pop fire, move switch to warm start (one position up) and pull till it starts.

I have a Stihl 290 that I bought last year brand new.

I haven't used it that much, maybe run 4-5 tanks of fuel through it. Since new it's been a real pain to get started when it's cold. I never counted pulls, but I would guess 8-10 pulls. Also when I run low on fuel, same situation. I don't let the saw run out... first hint that it bogs I shut it down and refuel. Runs great otherwise and it will fire first pull when it's warm.

I used it this weekend and it reminded me of how much of a pain it is to fire it up. I had brand new fuel so not a problem with that.

Is this normal?? I've never had to crank that much on any other saw, though I think most of them had primer bulbs.

Tell me exactly pull by pull what you are doing?

Its a hard starter...lol May check air filter blow it out good.

 

[TreePointer]

I don't know about your 290, or any 290 for that matter, but here's what I do:
1. Hold throttle while setting choke.
2. Pull until it "coughs".
3. Hit throttle once to release choke.
4. Pull until it runs.
5. Let idle for a minute or so.

Like I said, no guarantee, but this seems to work with saws, bikes (back when I had them), string trimmers, blowers, 2-stroke

Good luck,

Bill

That's not the starting procedure for a 290.

This is:

1. Move Master Control Lever to Cold Start (full choke).
2. Pull until it "coughs" once.
3. Then move Master Control Lever to Warm Start position. (Do not hit throttle yet.)
4. Pull until the saw starts, and then immediately blip the throttle which automatically moves Master Control Lever to Normal "run" position.

 

[Highbeam]

I don't know about your 290, or any 290 for that matter, but here's what I do:
1. Hold throttle while setting choke.
2. Pull until it "coughs".
3. Hit throttle once to release choke.
4. Pull until it runs.
5. Let idle for a minute or so.

Like I said, no guarantee, but this seems to work with saws, bikes (back when I had them), string trimmers, blowers, 2-stroke

Good luck,

Bill

That's not the starting procedure for a 290.

This is:

1. Move Master Control Lever to Cold Start (full choke).
2. Pull until it "coughs" once.
3. Then move Master Control Lever to Warm Start position. (Do not hit throttle yet.)
4. Pull until the saw starts, and then immediately blip the throttle which automatically moves Master Control Lever to Normal "run" position.

Treepointer has it right. The 290 is a little goofy if you're not familiar with it. One thing I will add is that when it does start after #3 above the "half choke" position is a very high rpm so I quickly go to #4 as TP points out.

Oh and I never set the chain brake while starting and I always drop start the saw. Takes 3-4 pulls every time which I blame the lack of a primer bulb. I never use the half choke/warm start position after the initial startup.

Are you setting the chain brake?

 

[nate379]

No I don't set the brake. I don't drop start it either. I hold the handle with right hand and pull the cord with left but I don't move the saw. Only have 18" bar so it's pretty easy to not stick the bar in the ground or into my legs. From cold start to warm start the lever is hard to move, normal?

 

[smokinj]

No I don't set the brake. I don't drop start it either. I hold the handle with right hand and pull the cord with left but I don't move the saw. Only have 18" bar so it's pretty easy to not stick the bar in the ground or into my legs.

I agree no real need to drop start.

 

[TreePointer]

My 290 takes only 2-4 pulls to fire in Cold Start position, and then usually only 1-2 pulls on Warm Start to run.



If you are pulling 10 times on Cold Start, you're probably well on your way to flooding it. Something to try: even if you don't hear it fire, stop at 5 pulls to avoid flooding it, and then switch to Warm Start. Also try making your pulls more sudden (you may need to use the foot-in-handle or between-the-legs method to do this).

 

[Exmasonite]

Could it be a spark issue? Maybe pull the plug, clean the contact points lightly with emory paper or even pop in a new plug to be safe?

 

[smokinj]

Could it be a spark issue? Maybe pull the plug, clean the contact points lightly with emory paper or even pop in a new plug to be safe?

Dont know for sure but sounds like its been stored in the cold. Run it hard and dont think the rings have seated yet. jmho

 

[nate379]

I'll pull the plug and check. Probably should have just done that this weekend but I was more worried about getting the trees cut than playing around with the saw.

 

[mayhem]

Also try making your pulls more sudden (you may need to use the foot-in-handle or between-the-legs method to do this).

Is there another way to do it? I've never started a saw that wasn't on the ground with my foot in the rear handle. Can't imagine holding it between the legs being any good...even with the decomp button pushed my 359 has enough compression to just about hold the saw up by the cord. Saw on the ground secured by your foot lets you pull the cord like you mean it.

Whats a drop start you guys are talking about?

 

[TreePointer]

Is there another way to do it? I've never started a saw that wasn't on the ground with my foot in the rear handle. Can't imagine holding it between the legs being any good...even with the decomp button pushed my 359 has enough compression to just about hold the saw up by the cord. Saw on the ground secured by your foot lets you pull the cord like you mean it.

Whats a drop start you guys are talking about?

Putting the rear handle between your legs is actually one of the two methods recommended in modern saw manuals for starting a saw safely (the other is on the ground with your foot in the rear handle). It sounded to me that the OP wasn't using either of those methods, which is fine, but may not allow him to make sudden strong pulls without losing control.

Drop starting? Although not recommended as a safe method in saw manuals, many experienced sawyers start their saws this way. Instead of pulling the cord away from a stationary saw, you hold the cord and let the saw drop in mid air. There are many YouTube videos of this. Here's one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJV4uaFuwV8

 

[Highbeam]

The video shows what I do and what I mean when I say "drop start". It is a combination of pulling the cord one way and moving the saw the other way. Nothing is dropping in mid-air and you don't just hold the cord. It allows a very fast and full pull. Seems perfectly safe vs. bending over and stuffing your foot into the handle, or stuffing the handle between your legs and using your left hand.

 

[Highbeam]

The failure method I expect with the 290 is either old stale gas not firing right away, or the fuel lines rotting away from the bad fuel we get these days. Note in your manual that Stihl expects you to replace the fuel lines every year whether you need to or not.

 

[TreePointer]

Replace fuel pickup body yearly? yes.

Replace fuel line yearly? No.

This saw is only a year old, so that fuel line shouldn't be bad. NATE379, if this saw is for homeowner use, the dealer should take care of your problem under warranty (1 year).

 

[jeffoc]

I was going to say the same thing, take it to the dealer for warranty.
I have the same saw and cold start is max 4 pulls, warm start is never more than 2, 1 if I drop start it.