Stove install planning

[Chad S.]

I ordered my charcoal fireview yesterday. I keep changing my mind on the install options. the hearth pad will be 5ft wide and 56- 5 feet deep. The chimney placement will put the stove front 48"-50" into the room. Currently the computer desk and a inside chimney chase for the fireplace in the basement is taking up this 5'x5' space so the new hearth pad will not take up any extra space. I am just concerned about the stove looking like its too far out in the room as the stove pipe will be 20" from the wall and the back of the stove 28" from the back wall. Everyones pics make it seem like the stove is a few inches from the wall instead of 28". I was going to use dvl stove pipe but that would onle allow for a 6" clearance to install a fieldstone back drop (that matches the outside of the house) that is about 4" thick. I don't know why i am stressing about being able to walk behind my stove as it will not take up any more space than what is currently there. I just think it may look wierd sitting 4' into the room.

 

[begreen]

So why not use the DVL pipe?? Why would one want to walk behind the stove unless clearances require a large space?

 

[Chad S.]

I was going touse dvl pipe but the pipe would be within 3-4" of the wall after the stone veneer is on it. My cieling truss 1re 16" oc so I am moving the chimney to the other side of the truss to allow me to put a natural stone veneer on the wall. I checked into buildin a wall shield, but durock with 2" of natural sone seems like it would not hold up without a 3/4" sheet of plywood supprting the durock. The durock is kind of flimsy and if I put a piece of plywood, then durock , then the veneer, the plywood would invalidate the heat shield. And no, I have no desire to walk behind the thing I am just saying that you could :lol:

 

[begreen]

The clearances are measured to combustible surfaces. There is no problem if the stone is 3-4" from the pipe as long as the combustible studs or drywall behind the stone is at least 6" from the pipe. However, if using 2" thick stone, then if the nearest combustibles sound close. Why not use the next size up length of DVL and move the stove 6" further away from the wall for a safe measure?

FWIW, durock is not flimsy, especially for a wall application. If you anchor the durock as per mfg specification, there is no need for a plywood stiffener on a wall.

If I may suggest, draw a picture or two of the proposed design and post it here. Could be just me, but so far this seems a little confused and some things are being worried about that are not issues. But to help better, we need to see what you are seeing and thinking of.

 

[Chad S.]

Yeah, things are hard to explain without being there. It really doesn't matter if my stove face is 48" from the rear wall because the hearth pad has to be 5'x5' (to cover up exisiting flooring cause I am ripping a decorative wall out), I am just concerned with it looking weird. I think I'm just going install it that way and if I don't like how it looks I can always offset it back towards the wall with elbows. How far back can you go with elbows, I don't know, but there is always a way to do things.

 

[fossil]

We got all wrapped around the heat shield question in another thread. I thought, from the outset, that you wanted a vented shield. Some folks do that, even when not required, for extra peace of mind. As jtp suggested in the other thread, you could simply apply your decorative rock to the wall right where it is, and then make sure you observe the stove manufacturer's minimum clearance to combustibles from the appliance to the combustible wall behind the stone veneer. Also, as BeGreen said, Durock is not a "flimsy" material. If you anchor it to the wall with doubled strips of itself to form a vented air channel, you're fastening it to every stud almost the same as it's fastend up when building a shower or whatever. In any case, you probably don't need a vented shield, and you probably don't need to put your stove as far out into the room as you're thinking now. The stovepipe run can be offset any number of ways using angled offset fittings to get the stove where you want it and the pipe to the ceiling support box wherever it needs to be. Some pics would be of invaluable assistance here. Rick

 

[Chad S.]

The computer is getting replaced by a laptop in 2 days and the chase is getting ripped out. The wall to the end of the half-wall is 56" so for ease of flooring issues the hearth pad will be 56" maybe 60. The chimney that is in the chase right now is from the heatilator (1983) in the basement. I would like the chimney in the old hole but that would put the stove pipe 6" from the wall with no pretty looking veneer on it. Once the veneer is on it will be too close. I was told by a woodstock employee that the smallest offset dvl pipe can do is 13". If I move the chimney to the other side of the ceiling truss it would move the stove pipe an additional 13.5 " form where the dvl would have been, making dvl with an offset pointless. However, I go on simpson's dvl site and they claim 2 45's can do 4,7, and 13 "(so why does woodstock say the minumum is 13"?). I will probably end up getting the pad in, the wall done , then the chimney and end up ordering a different stovepipe configuration and shipping back the current stove pipe. I should have ordered just the stove and chimney and after the stove is in place figure out how to connect it.
If the front of the stove sits out 4' then I will have a straight up install. The problem is my 16"o.c. trussing. I would love to put in the dvl and offset it 4" into the room but the woodstock people say the least I can go is 13" so the stove will sit out 4' anyway. Maybe I should talk to more people over there, after all, I only changed my order like 4 times :roll:

The hallway pic is what you see if you are looking straight out from the stove. The stove will sit half in the living/dining/kitchen area at 900sf. and the rooms are a combined total of 600 sf. The house is well insulated and 2x6 outside wall construction (1983).

 

[Chad S.]

Second pic