Stove pipe setup

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Dreamboater

Member
Feb 7, 2012
23
King George, VA
I am in the planning stages of a wood stove. My setup would be out the wall then straight up with a 25' exterior chimney. My question is regarding the stove pipe length. Is there an optimal vertical length before I make the turn out of the house? I was thinking vertical 4' to the 90 elbow then straight out where length will depend on stove clearance. Just wondering if that sounds optimal. Since this is a totally new setup my choices are extremely open.
 
3-4 ft is good. Keep the horizontal section a minimum of 18" from the ceiling and as short as possible. This section should head uphill toward the chimney at least 1/4" / ft..
 
BeGreen said:
3-4 ft is good. Keep the horizontal section a minimum of 18" from the ceiling and as short as possible. This section should head uphill toward the chimney at least 1/4" / ft..
So the horizontal pipe between the 90 and the wall thimble needs to have a slight rise? How is that done? I plan on having someone install this for insurance approval but want to buy the materials my self. Cheapest quote I have seen was $100/foot to install and supply materials. I priced everything right around $1300. Seems like I can save a bit this way.
 
Dreamboater said:
...So the horizontal pipe between the 90 and the wall thimble needs to have a slight rise? How is that done?...

Simply by carefully determining/adjusting the height of the vertical run up from the stove collar to the first 90° elbow. The rise of the horizontal run is so small (~¼" per foot) that it's barely noticeable, and requires no special fittings or assembly technique. Rick
 
fossil said:
Dreamboater said:
...So the horizontal pipe between the 90 and the wall thimble needs to have a slight rise? How is that done?...

Simply by carefully determining/adjusting the height of the vertical run up from the stove collar to the first 90° elbow. The rise of the horizontal run is so small (~¼" per foot) that it's barely noticeable, and requires no special fittings or assembly technique. Rick
Ok so the pipe from the stove to the 90 isn't exactly perpendicular to the top of the stove? Being that duratech dvl pipe shouldn't be cut I guess it's wise to go with adjust pipe for the horizontal run?

Generally speaking should the stove be in place first before the stove pipe and chimney is in or is it done both ways?
 
Dreamboater said:
...Ok so the pipe from the stove to the 90 isn't exactly perpendicular to the top of the stove? Being that duratech dvl pipe shouldn't be cut I guess it's wise to go with adjust pipe for the horizontal run?

Generally speaking should the stove be in place first before the stove pipe and chimney is in or is it done both ways?

The vertical run of stovepipe from the stove collar up to the elbow is exactly perpendicular to the stovetop. The horizontal run from the elbow to the thimble is not exactly parallel to the stovetop (nor is it exactly level). An adjustable piping section for the vertical run up from the stove collar will definitely facilitate the installation. The stove definitely needs to be in position before assembling/installing the stovepipe. Rick
 
fossil said:
Dreamboater said:
...Ok so the pipe from the stove to the 90 isn't exactly perpendicular to the top of the stove? Being that duratech dvl pipe shouldn't be cut I guess it's wise to go with adjust pipe for the horizontal run?

Generally speaking should the stove be in place first before the stove pipe and chimney is in or is it done both ways?

The vertical run of stovepipe from the stove collar up to the elbow is exactly perpendicular to the stovetop. The horizontal run from the elbow to the thimble is not exactly parallel to the stovetop (nor is it exactly level). An adjustable piping section for the vertical run up from the stove collar will definitely facilitate the installation. The stove definitely needs to be in position before assembling/installing the stovepipe. Rick
Ok understood thank you. Now just need to figure out my stove choice. Pretty much narrowed down to the Alderlea T6, Jotul f600, and Woodstock progress hybrid. I am a little worried about the last 2 stoves in my setup. The stove would be right below the master bedroom. I'm worried about the radiant heat cooking me out directly above the stove at night. Really like the T6 and have read about everything I can find about it. Really wish it offered side loading. Is this even a big deal?
 
Dreamboater said:
...wish it offered side loading. Is this even a big deal?

Seems to be for some folks in some situations. I've never had a side loader (or a top loader, either), so I really can't say. Rick
 
I don't know that the loading method (front, side, top) effects the burn. However, a side loader will require a wider hearth pad. The progress hybrid is the only stove that gives me stove envy. Except I prefer a front loader..but that's a personal thing. I feel less likely to burn myself with it.
 
eclecticcottage said:
I don't know that the loading method (front, side, top) effects the burn. However, a side loader will require a wider hearth pad. The progress hybrid is the only stove that gives me stove envy. Except I prefer a front loader..but that's a personal thing. I feel less likely to burn myself with it.
I was thinking that loading from the side would be cleaner but I guess it's what you get used too. The progress hybrid is a really nice stove from everything I have read. I am thinking hard about ordering that stove!
 
First, I had a Woodstock Fireview and have now replaced it with a Progress Hybrid- both beautiful stoves, but to me the Progress Hybrid is an entire order of magnitude more advanced than the Fireview...like comparing a 1970's auto to today's versions....

Second, both these stoves have side loading doors and I have never burned myself..not an issue. Any debris from loading wood is to the side, which I prefer. Also, I'm out of the traffic pattern in the home when I am loading the stove...doesn't interfere with anything anyone else is doing. Side loading really is not a concern. Don't know if front loaders have a bigger loading door,,,that might make a difference for some. A larger, front loading door may also be more prone to spilling smoke in the house during loading???I Don't know, but feel I have read that on some blogs. The PH does not spill smoke in my experience, unless it is time to clean the combuster. On the PH, any smoke smell at all while burning seems to be an early easy notification that it is time to clean the combuster. I seem to get a slight whiff of smoke which i notice but others in the home don't seem to, long before there is any chnage is smoke pattern coming out of the chimney.

Thirdly, while the stove top temperature definitely gets into catalytic mode, I find mine burns long and steady right around 380-430 unless I make an effort to increase stove top temp by opening the damper or putting in a really big load of wood. The vast majority of the heat from this stove comes out the front. That said, sitting in a chair next to the stove and four feet away, one definitely feels the warmth of the stove radiate out through the side stove walls, which I would not say was true with the Fireview. One may have been comfortable, but not aware of the warmth.With this stove, it is as if one had gentle sunlight on oneself. I don't think you need to worry about the PH roasting you out of your overhead bedroom. Obviously, home construction will influence amount of heat traveling through the floors. Plain boards on joists will let more heat through than subfloors and wood floors, especially if the wood floors are carpeted or have rugs....That said, the stove top heat will not roast you in your bedroom. However. I don't think you have indicated the size of your home. For anyone with a home under 200 feet range this is probably an unnecessarily great heat producer. That said, if you are willing to burn small loads to control heat output, in a smaller home this will be an incredibly efficient heat producer, requiring far less firewood, hence less cost and/or work associated with wood heating. Also, note that you are in VA...less demand for heat than up north.

Overall, I would say this is a beautiful stove, you would never get tired of viewing it in your living room, you would find it very easy to operate and efficient, and the folks at Woodstock are simply great. They are always interested in any issues their stove owners have, and quick to address such issues, no mtter how slight or significant the problem. They are also ALWAYS courteous.

None of this is meant as a negative about any other stove. My entire experience has been with Woodstock, so I have no knowledge about other stoves...but I also have absolutely no reason to look at any other stove. I did do due diligence in research before buying my first Woodstock, and knew full well when i bought my Fireviewit that it really was not large enough to heat my home satisfactorily. however, given its advantages, I preferred it to a larger but to me less desirable stove. I have never regretted the decision, and watched with interest and expectation while Woodstock developed a stove for larger homes located in cold climates, in response to the interest on the part of their exisitng customers for such a stove. I had such confidence in Woodstock that I was on the list for the new stove long before it was fully developed. I knew they would make a great stove...

Good luck. Hope you have as many enjoyable hours associated with your stove of choice as I have had with mine. No regrets on my part.
 
Dreamboater said:
fossil said:
Dreamboater said:
...Ok so the pipe from the stove to the 90 isn't exactly perpendicular to the top of the stove? Being that duratech dvl pipe shouldn't be cut I guess it's wise to go with adjust pipe for the horizontal run?

Generally speaking should the stove be in place first before the stove pipe and chimney is in or is it done both ways?

The vertical run of stovepipe from the stove collar up to the elbow is exactly perpendicular to the stovetop. The horizontal run from the elbow to the thimble is not exactly parallel to the stovetop (nor is it exactly level). An adjustable piping section for the vertical run up from the stove collar will definitely facilitate the installation. The stove definitely needs to be in position before assembling/installing the stovepipe. Rick
Ok understood thank you. Now just need to figure out my stove choice. Pretty much narrowed down to the Alderlea T6, Jotul f600, and Woodstock progress hybrid. I am a little worried about the last 2 stoves in my setup. The stove would be right below the master bedroom. I'm worried about the radiant heat cooking me out directly above the stove at night. Really like the T6 and have read about everything I can find about it. Really wish it offered side loading. Is this even a big deal?

I've owned a top loader and liked it. But I don't miss is at all with the T6. The big door and box make loading very easy with lots of room to work. The benefit being a less complex stove with less parts to deal with and no bypass to remember to engage/disengage. But, it you like the Alderlea style with a big squarish firebox, but want top loading, take a look at the Jotul Rangeley.

That said, I wouldn't worry about heat radiating from the stove through the floor. The radiance of heat from the stove will be confined to the room. Tell us more about the area the stove will be located. How open is this area. What is the ceiling height? Radiant stoves need more generous clearances. How close are combustibles like wood trim, furniture, etc.
 
rideau said:
First, I had a Woodstock Fireview and have now replaced it with a Progress Hybrid- both beautiful stoves, but to me the Progress Hybrid is an entire order of magnitude more advanced than the Fireview...like comparing a 1970's auto to today's versions....

Good luck. Hope you have as many enjoyable hours associated with your stove of choice as I have had with mine. No regrets on my part.
thanks a lot for the detailed review. Your experience sounds like many others I have read with woodstock
 
Progress hybrid side clearances 24 inches, rear clearane 7 inches.

New testing available at Woodstock site, showing good clean catalytic burning with wet wood, water content in excess of 30%, Woodstock is not advocating burning wet wood, just showing the catalyst cleans the mess up

Woodstock will continue testing different wood loads and posting results.
 
BeGreen said:
Dreamboater said:
fossil said:
Dreamboater said:
...Ok so the pipe from the stove to the 90 isn't exactly perpendicular to the top of the stove? Being that duratech dvl pipe shouldn't be cut I guess it's wise to go with adjust pipe for the horizontal run?

Generally speaking should the stove be in place first before the stove pipe and chimney is in or is it done both ways?

The vertical run of stovepipe from the stove collar up to the elbow is exactly perpendicular to the stovetop. The horizontal run from the elbow to the thimble is not exactly parallel to the stovetop (nor is it exactly level). An adjustable piping section for the vertical run up from the stove collar will definitely facilitate the installation. The stove definitely needs to be in position before assembling/installing the stovepipe. Rick
Ok understood thank you. Now just need to figure out my stove choice. Pretty much narrowed down to the Alderlea T6, Jotul f600, and Woodstock progress hybrid. I am a little worried about the last 2 stoves in my setup. The stove would be right below the master bedroom. I'm worried about the radiant heat cooking me out directly above the stove at night. Really like the T6 and have read about everything I can find about it. Really wish it offered side loading. Is this even a big deal?

I've owned a top loader and liked it. But I don't miss is at all with the T6. The big door and box make loading very easy with lots of room to work. The benefit being a less complex stove with less parts to deal with and no bypass to remember to engage/disengage. But, it you like the Alderlea style with a big squarish firebox, but want top loading, take a look at the Jotul Rangeley.

That said, I wouldn't worry about heat radiating from the stove through the floor. The radiance of heat from the stove will be confined to the room. Tell us more about the area the stove will be located. How open is this area. What is the ceiling height? Radiant stoves need more generous clearances. How close are combustibles like wood trim, furniture, etc.
The stove would be in a open living room that faces out towards the foyer and staircase up stairs. The opening to the living which is accessed through a 10' opening. The lower level of the house is pretty much all open with the enclosure being the staircase in the middle of the house. Total sq feet is 2460. 9' ceilings in first level that steps out into 10' in family room. Family room is on opposite side from stove location. Upstairs is all bedrooms with 8' ceilings. Master bedroom directly above wood stove.
 
Sounds nice. There's nothing you've mentioned so far that would rule out a good radiant stove if that is your first choice.
 
Went to a local ace hardware yesterday and they only had one wood stove...rest pellet stoves. They had the Harman tl300. I have read about this stove but kind of crossed it off my list due to warranty and customer service complaints. Originally I was interested in this stove as well as the quad isle royale. I suppose if I can trust my dealer these should be good options?
 
Yes, if you have a good dealer that will work with you, then that counts for a lot. The Isle Royale is a fine heater.
 
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