Stove Pipe

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AppalachianStan

Minister of Fire
Nov 4, 2011
557
Clover SC
Hi guy Love this forum. Any way Last year when I put in my stove I used the black Single wall stove pipe. The type you get from your local hardware store. I may have cut it down to short. I am over the cramp end of the chimney adapter but not by much is this ok to run this way?
 
AppalachianStan said:
Hi guy Love this forum. Any way Last year when I put in my stove I used the black Single wall stove pipe. The type you get from your local hardware store. I may have cut it down to short. I am over the cramp end of the chimney adapter but not by much is this ok to run this way?
Depends on how its running, drafting, and do you feel safe? Stove pipe is cheap. I myself would put the right length in, and sleep well at night.
Is it all screwed together?
 
If you could put a pipe damper above that and close it all the way down when your stove was running hot, that's where you'd first see the smoke come out. Same thing in reverse. You're letting air in and reducing the strength of your draft. I'd fix it, but for God's sake, put three screws in it if you don't already have them.
 
Will for me I just don't like it. The Chimney pro. said it is ok. As for the right length I have 2 options.
1.) Buy the same type from my local store and cut it a gone. Which was a pain in the neck to install.
2.) Buy a Telescoping pipe.
 
Battenkiller said:
If you could put a pipe damper above that and close it all the way down when your stove was running hot, that's where you'd first see the smoke come out. Same thing in reverse. You're letting air in and reducing the strength of your draft. I'd fix it, but for God's sake, put three screws in it if you don't already have them.
I have 4 screws in.
 
Can I raise it up so I can put screws in at the top of the pipes and use furnace cement on the bottom?
 
The hardware can cut the pipe to any length you want and should not even charge for this. Do it right and you will sleep much better.
 
I bought my black stove pipe at Lowe's it has this lip above the cramp end and it make it hard to slide one pipe into the other. I had to tilt the stove to get it in. I had to cut the pipe 3 time to get this.
 
AppalachianStan said:
I bought my black stove pipe at Lowe's it has this lip above the cramp end and it make it hard to slide one pipe into the other. I had to tilt the stove to get it in. I had to cut the pipe 3 time to get this.

And it should have this lip. They all do.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
AppalachianStan said:
I bought my black stove pipe at Lowe's it has this lip above the cramp end and it make it hard to slide one pipe into the other. I had to tilt the stove to get it in. I had to cut the pipe 3 time to get this.

And it should have this lip. They all do.
Having a hard time wraping my head around this, why would the lip be a problem?
 
That Ok I can't wrap my head around it either. The pipes should slide down far enough to get it in but the lip is holding it back without splitting the pipe apart. I need the pipes to be at lest 57" but I have 55 1/2".
 
You should not really be using that snap together lowes pipe inside the house!!!!!!!!! Ok for a shop with a concrete floor. but not your house. In a chimney fire, that pipe will unsnap and look out!! Go to a stove dealer and buy the welded pipe, it is not that much and screw the sections together. Same applies to those spin around 90 elboes. do not use them, buy the mandrel bent 90. Again, not that expensive. Tim
 
Ok not that expensive for the welded pipe. I will have to order it online the cheapest I find was this place. http://www.elitedeals.com/cpf-21335.html for a Telescoping pipe. That is the only way I can see to get it to slide down far enough to clear the pipe. At $98.00 that is expensive to me. Any idea?
 
If you make a 90 and go out, that is easy. If straight up, different story. If it were me, I would make some kind of spacer for the bottom, be it pedestal or feet. Put pipe in, lift and install spacer. Just me. tim
 
You know 72.00 is a lot of money,but this is your life, what is it worth. Places to save money, not here! If it wasn't expandable, would be a lot less! Tom
 
Black stove pipe is made for exactly what your using it for, the inside envelope of the house.
Most use this inside. A pic of the pipe, the lip and how it won't let it slip all the way in would be helpful.
I myself would not shim anything. Not meant to be that way. And best to have the pedestal or feet right non the floor.
That is just me though, not pushing my beliefs on you or anyone else.
Do it all right and nice, or do it twice...... or more.
 
Here is my set up.
 

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OMFG! LOL
You have an insert on a home made pedestal? Sorry, wasn't expecting that.
The first pipe joint don't look that bad. It will split if you push it that last what is it 1/4" 1/8"? Looks like it made it tight at some point, the paint is scratched up to the lip?
How far is the top pc into the ceiling boc outlet? Looks like a screw there, maybe 3/4" or 1" down? Looks fairly tight?
Put a couple more screws in the top seam.
Is that thing more secure and stable than it looks? If that tips or falls off for whatever reason, you are F'd.
 
Well its actually both, the legs kit is $200 so I thought of building my own pedestal. It is on there and is not going any where. Bending over get to my back so why not put it up so I do not have to bend over. After looking at some of the wood stove here it looks kinda stupid!!!!!! Need to get the legs for it.
 
AppalachianStan said:
Well its actually both, the legs kit is $200 so I thought of building my own pedestal. It is on there and is not going any where. Bending over get to my back so why not put it up so I do not have to bend over. After looking at some of the wood stove here it looks kinda stupid!!!!!! Need to get the legs for it.

Not trying to ridicule you man. To hell with the legs. Just get yourself some cinder blocks, and build a nice rectangular platform that spans a bit more under the stove.
The face it later with cultured stone if you want. Love the height, I will be building a raised hearth for my 2nd stove, when I ever get to installing it. Going to stone face it and put blue stone or like on top.
You could even use some good thick 1-1/2" or 2" 3/8" or 1/4" angle iron and make a nice sturdy base for it.
If its secure and works, that is all that matter. It just looks top heavy to me, and like it could tip off.
Whatever works, as long as it is safe, thats all that matters.
 
Do you know the clearance specs for it? If its that old, it may need to be 36" from all combustibles?
 
I do know the spec from the top of the stove to the ceiling is 56 and 1/2". I will also be raising mine when i get it as the bending down to put the wood in is getting harder. Tim
 
Yes the clearance is 12" on the corners. The diagram is on the back of the stove. Its not top heavy as it looks its been there since 2009. I might just add some more blocks to the sides.
 

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AppalachianStan said:
Yes the clearance is 12" on the corners. The diagram is on the back of the stove. Its not top heavy as it looks its been there since 2009. I might just add some more blocks to the sides.

Ash pan on the lower right with the handle? BLower on the left. What is the small are between them for if anything? Is that a switch there?
 
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