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To install Or Not To Install A Flue Damper

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by HDRock, Sep 5, 2013.

  1. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    I am going from Smoke Dragon to EPA stove ,New stove is installed but , it wouldn't be hard to put in a damper
    It just seems like a damper would give more control if U need it
    When Left wide open would it restrict draft at all ?
    What say ye ?

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  2. Heatsource

    Heatsource Minister of Fire

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    its for the Lopi 1750?
    how tall is the chimney? any offsets?

    typically not needed, but wont hurt anything to install one
  3. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

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    Not sure why so many folks want a damper. We've been pretty happy to not have one and haven't used one for well over 30 years. One less thing to monkey with especially when it comes to cleaning time.
  4. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Yes Lopi 1750, 6" stove pipe to ceiling box, 8" chim. 15' total straight up
  5. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Wasn't thinking about cleaning, probably good enough reason right there not to put one in
  6. Heatsource

    Heatsource Minister of Fire

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    dont let that bother you, the first couple feet of pipe aren't likely to be dirty anyways
  7. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Really ! not even on the old stoves ? I don't think I could have controlled my old stove without one
  8. pen

    pen There are some who call me...mod. Staff Member

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    With only 15 feet of chimney, and it being 8 inch to boot, I highly doubt you are going to need one as that's not very tall and that's wider than the stove requires. Actually, I hope that chimney gives you enough draft to operate at full potential!

    Being straight up, you should be fine, but in warmer weather, things might be a bit sluggish for you.

    Definitely forgo the damper for now. If operation of the stove shows a problem (overdraft which is highly unlikely) then you'd consider one.

    pen
  9. Highbeam

    Highbeam Minister of Fire

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    Yes, but that's 15 feet of chimney plus the interior pipe. Maybe another 4 feet. Way over the minimum and with this being a non-cat the minimum is quite adequate. I remember having an oversized flue and while it was harder to get going, once it did start drafting it would pull harder than the normal size. Runaway material.

    With a non-cat on that chimney, I'd be putting in a damper.
  10. pen

    pen There are some who call me...mod. Staff Member

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    Ok, I was thinking him saying 15 foot total meant from stove to sky.

    I'd still wait and try things out first though. I have one on my stove, and wish I could go w/out it as it would make cleaning easier.
    HDRock likes this.
  11. Oldhippie

    Oldhippie Minister of Fire

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    You're absolutely right.. it will provide some control and could be helpful if you have a strong draft and need to dampen down some from the fully closed position that will still allow a certain amount of airflow in an EPA stove.

    You may not use it, but for the $10 it'll cost you, why not?
  12. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    It is 15' total stove top to cap, straight up

    Chimney is about 9'6"
    What's the minimum ? Edit: manual says 15' minimum ,floor to cap
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  13. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    The connector pipe is usually the dirtiest part of the system, including the first few feet.
  14. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    A lopi on a 15' system? You will never have a problem controlling it! With the 8" flue you are more likely to have draft problems than anything. It'll work just fine, you won't need a damper.
    HDRock likes this.
  15. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Ok, I could add another 30" of chimney pipe now with a damper or without
    OR Just see how it goes just the way it is, first, and go from there
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  16. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Wait and see. Cleaning the pipe with that thing in it is a pain in the ass and the holes on the pipe sides of the thing are just draft leaks. When I had one the shiny stuff was always just above those holes.
    Backwoods Savage and HDRock like this.
  17. bag of hammers

    bag of hammers Minister of Fire

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    +1

    I picture poly brush colliding with damper, trying to reverse the brush mid way in the pipe, etc.

    I have a mangled temp probe to remind me of past brain fart (forgetting to pull the pin before pushing the brush down).
  18. Huntindog1

    Huntindog1 Minister of Fire

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    HDRock,

    I will chime in here also, as I mentioned to you in a PM, that your feeding a 8" main chimney with some length of 6" pipe from stove to the main 8".

    I ran into problems there as it seemed at the time the 6" was having trouble feeding the larger flue. Plus with you having a shorter flue 15' , mine is more like 25'. So I would have more draft than a 15.

    So a damper will most likely not be needed. Like they said wait and see you can always add it later unless it looks like it would be too difficult.

    But I will attest to that once that larger flue gets heated it does pull pretty hard with my 25', so I do have a damper in my system.

    If you do put it in you dont have to use it.

    I helped my situation by putting an adapter right on my outlet of the stove and ran 8" pipe all the way to my main chimney.
    I think having the larger volume of air there at the hottest part of the stove , the top of the stove, made it all work better.
    Some kind of draft voodoo going on there.
    I just couldnt get the 6" pipe running to my main chimney working good.

    Here you can see my adapter on the top of the stove outlet.

    2013-01-03_21-13-01_800-1.jpg
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2013
    HDRock likes this.
  19. Heatsource

    Heatsource Minister of Fire

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    not in my experience, and i clean a couple hundred chimneys a year- and have for over 15years
  20. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Well, It got down to 44 the other night , from a cold stove it took about 30 min to start a fire and get to 450 STT, secondary's going , ran it up to 620 ,had the air out just a little , seemed to be drafting fine , at 44 outside was very easy to control.
    So far, I think It's going to work fine just like it is
    Huntindog1 and pen like this.
  21. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Yeah, some cold night it will give you pause to reflect for a little bit but you will be fine with it.
    Huntindog1 likes this.
  22. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    A couple of things I searched and read here ,that really helps with this epa stove , don't choke down to soon and then wait 5-10 min for fire to stabilize before the next increment
  23. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Took me a long time after I made the change. It still gives me moments of excitement every season. And that was eight seasons ago. ;em
  24. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    Man, this stove puts out a lot more heat to the front and holds the heat a lot longer than the old one.
    I think I am going to Enjoy heating with this stove , and the cost was not bad, old stove came with the house sold it for $175 ,used lopi w blower,$450 , door gasket, pipe, paint, etc. about $80
    Huntindog : I Used more wood and more kindling for start up :)
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2013
    Huntindog1, webby3650 and pen like this.
  25. HDRock

    HDRock Minister of Fire

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    No doubt I still have some learnin ahead of me :), but with the help, It's going pretty well , thank U all :)
    PapaDave and Huntindog1 like this.

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