I have an older T300P that I bought used. It will run for awhile, sometimes for a few hours and then shutoff. There will be a fire in the burnpot and it appears to be feeding pellets and the blowers will just shut off. I havecleaned the photoeye (old style). If I try it at the 3 different feed rates, it will seemingly run longer on a higher feed rate and the shortest on the lowest rate. Could this be a high limit switch problem or something else??
Traditions T300P Shutting Off
- Thread starter DDH1987
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Lake Girl
Moderator
How well did you clean it before install? Blow out windings on the blowers and lubricate if indicated in the manual.
http://www.woodpelletheat.com/T300P-2Manual.pdf
Edit: High limit switch can be reset by pressing button in middle. Some only allow for a few resets; some reset automatically. Switch can be temporarily by-passed to check if that is the problem.
Damper adjustment may play a factor in this too...
http://www.woodpelletheat.com/T300P-2Manual.pdf
Edit: High limit switch can be reset by pressing button in middle. Some only allow for a few resets; some reset automatically. Switch can be temporarily by-passed to check if that is the problem.
Damper adjustment may play a factor in this too...
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I pulled the fan for the heat exchanger and cleaned it up real well. It was not obvious how to remove the fan for the combustion blower. If the fan is dirty can it cause both blowers to shut down?
Lake Girl
Moderator
High limit switch - usually both blowers will continue to run - just stop auger from feeding the fire.
When the stove shuts down, the green light on the panel flashes as though it is out of pellets. If you turn it off and back on, the blowers and auger start up right away.
I will try to take out the combustion fan and try to clean it as well as the rest of the air passages. The fan motors are sealed and are not to be lubricated.
I will try to take out the combustion fan and try to clean it as well as the rest of the air passages. The fan motors are sealed and are not to be lubricated.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Make sure you have a gasket to replace the one that will likely tear when you pull the combustion motor....
Lake Girl
Moderator
Unplug stove before working in cabinet.... Once you clean combustion blower & internal exhaust pathways, try again paying attention if the auger shuts down before blowers.
I will try to access and clean out fan and internal passages. What is the best access method? Is it through the back or can a side panel be removed to enhance the ability to work.
The damper is also seemingly locked in position. I cannot slide it in or out. Is there a way to see what is restricting its movement? The flame is somewhat less active than in my Profile pellet stove but I would not describe as "lazy". I don't know if damper setting is the cause or if internal passages might be restricted. Thoughts??
The damper is also seemingly locked in position. I cannot slide it in or out. Is there a way to see what is restricting its movement? The flame is somewhat less active than in my Profile pellet stove but I would not describe as "lazy". I don't know if damper setting is the cause or if internal passages might be restricted. Thoughts??
Lake Girl
Moderator
If you have a leaf blower, search the forum for video of leaf blower trick for assist in cleaning out exhaust pathways after cleaning internal exhaust pathways per manual. Remember to unplug vacuum switch before doing this... Clogged exhaust pathways can cause an overheat...
When cleaning fans, be sure to use compressed air blown into the windings of the motors to get rid of dust bunnies that collect there (little slots cut in metal farthest away from flange that attaches to the stove). The blowers have thermal protection on their own motors so they will shut down if getting too hot - dust bunnies can cause this.
Page 8 of manual states damper is just behind the ash pan .... not sure if it can be accessed there or through rectangular cut out. May be rusted in position so have some PB Blaster or similar to try to work it loose. Usually clogged exhaust or fan problems are more likely culprits for overheat but should get the damper moving again...
When cleaning fans, be sure to use compressed air blown into the windings of the motors to get rid of dust bunnies that collect there (little slots cut in metal farthest away from flange that attaches to the stove). The blowers have thermal protection on their own motors so they will shut down if getting too hot - dust bunnies can cause this.
Page 8 of manual states damper is just behind the ash pan .... not sure if it can be accessed there or through rectangular cut out. May be rusted in position so have some PB Blaster or similar to try to work it loose. Usually clogged exhaust or fan problems are more likely culprits for overheat but should get the damper moving again...
I took off the side plate and combustion blower. There was some dirt on the motor windings. I am cleaning out the passageways but they don't seem to have too much build up so far.My leaf blower does not work in vacuum fashion so I will use a large shop-vac to further clean passageways. I did get the damper freed up. It had some mild corrosion keeping it from moving. two questions:
1. Can I use hit temp RTV silicone sealant instead of gaskets?
2. Can I apply a very, very thin layer of hi temp brake grease to the damper or will it lead to problems?
Thanks
1. Can I use hit temp RTV silicone sealant instead of gaskets?
2. Can I apply a very, very thin layer of hi temp brake grease to the damper or will it lead to problems?
Thanks
just tried it after getting everything back together following the thorough cleaning. the flame is a lot more active but it still shut down. I had it running on a low feed rate. It started and ran fine for a while and then the fire went out. I looked over the back and it appeared as though the auger was not turning. As i was looking at the wiring, it started to turn again. What would cause it to intermittently work? Am i looking at a short in the wiring or is a switch intermittently deactivating it?
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
You likely have the vacuum switch getting into the act, a wide open damper can cause this as can a bad set of gaskets.
I'd check the gaskets using the dollar bill test and start the stove with a less open damper and then once it is running adjust the flame.
I'd check the gaskets using the dollar bill test and start the stove with a less open damper and then once it is running adjust the flame.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Have you been able to get the damper loosened up? I have been using Graphite Extreme spray (Jig-a-loo) for lubricant
Sorry for the delays in checking things out as well as responding but I have been busy between teaching at AWANA and many other responsibilities.
I did get the damper loose (it was corroded in but I used a Scotch Brite to clean it up some). Between the thorough cleaning of both fans, all accessible passageways and using a large Shop-Vac on the exhaust, things are cleaned out pretty darn well. Even with the damper closed all the way, I get a vigorous flame. Unfortunately, the stove is still shutting down. I checked the door gaskets using the dollar bill method and they are actually quite tight.
Question: I was watching the auger motor as I was running the stove on a medium feed rate. It would turn about 10 degrees of the 360 degree circle and then pause for 2-3 seconds and then turn again. Should the motor turn continuously or do this intermittent turning I saw? At a medium feed rate it had completed about 1/2 a revolution in one minute.
I ran the stove both at low and medium feed rates and had it shut down at both settings. The first time on a medium rate it ran for about an hour before shutting down. It appears the auger stops turning when this happens. The one time the pellets had pretty much all burned down and gone out when all of a sudden it started to feed pellets again. If Iisten to the fan motors, I can hear what sounds like the motors changing speeds, presumably as electrical loads are changing. Not sure why anything is affecting it but the fan noise change can easily be heard.
I did change the one high limit switch on the back of the burn chamber but have not changed out the one on the air intake.
Could the vacuum switch be the source of my problems? Can I disconnect and bypass the wires connecting to this switch to test it?
If a control board is the source of a problem is it usually an all or nothing thing or can it cause intermittent issues?
Thanks again
I did get the damper loose (it was corroded in but I used a Scotch Brite to clean it up some). Between the thorough cleaning of both fans, all accessible passageways and using a large Shop-Vac on the exhaust, things are cleaned out pretty darn well. Even with the damper closed all the way, I get a vigorous flame. Unfortunately, the stove is still shutting down. I checked the door gaskets using the dollar bill method and they are actually quite tight.
Question: I was watching the auger motor as I was running the stove on a medium feed rate. It would turn about 10 degrees of the 360 degree circle and then pause for 2-3 seconds and then turn again. Should the motor turn continuously or do this intermittent turning I saw? At a medium feed rate it had completed about 1/2 a revolution in one minute.
I ran the stove both at low and medium feed rates and had it shut down at both settings. The first time on a medium rate it ran for about an hour before shutting down. It appears the auger stops turning when this happens. The one time the pellets had pretty much all burned down and gone out when all of a sudden it started to feed pellets again. If Iisten to the fan motors, I can hear what sounds like the motors changing speeds, presumably as electrical loads are changing. Not sure why anything is affecting it but the fan noise change can easily be heard.
I did change the one high limit switch on the back of the burn chamber but have not changed out the one on the air intake.
Could the vacuum switch be the source of my problems? Can I disconnect and bypass the wires connecting to this switch to test it?
If a control board is the source of a problem is it usually an all or nothing thing or can it cause intermittent issues?
Thanks again
Bioburner
Moderator
Never heard of a limit switch on air intake!? Sure your not describing the exhaust?
I had a triac go bad on a board(another brand) and after start cycle the auger cycle would start going strange and stove would take about an hour or so before it started to shut itself down.
I had a triac go bad on a board(another brand) and after start cycle the auger cycle would start going strange and stove would take about an hour or so before it started to shut itself down.
I will try to take a photo tomorrow but it is a low rectangular channel that opens to the environment at the rear of the stove. As best as I can tell, this is where air is sucked into the system going forward and up into the burn pot as it enters the overall front chamber. The switch is on the top of the rectangular channel just in front of where it opens at the rear of the stove. Seemed strange to me also.
Bioburner
Moderator
This stove seems to share a Whitfields design. I would try and jump around the stupid photo eye for awhile. Seems to be an issue with Whits and Lennox latter went back to POF snap switch in exhaust path. I got a needy Profile last summer and was advised to jump and latter install a snap switch and stove runs now without issue.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Manual Page 18 goes through auger feed rate (times on/off)
As Bio suggests, check out photo eye and filter. Temporary bypass will confirm/deny the issue.
As Bio suggests, check out photo eye and filter. Temporary bypass will confirm/deny the issue.
There is no filter in this design. It detects through a port on side of pellet feed shaft (old design). I have twice cleaned the photoeye (which seemed clean when I checked) with no impact. I can bypass to rule out malfunction of the eye. Suggestions on what to use for a bypass? I had previously used 16 ga solid copper wire when I was bypassing the thermostat and it caused other problems.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Unplug before rooting around in there... Use the same gauge as original wiring - many have jumpers set up with appropriate ends for direct connect. Helps rule out short potential
Have you totally ruled out thermostat problems?
Have you totally ruled out thermostat problems?
Yes, I always unplug before working in the box.
I have used two different thermostats with one of them being brand new. No difference.
I have used two different thermostats with one of them being brand new. No difference.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Found these threads that may have helpful hints...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/whitfield-tradition-t300p-2-poor-combustion.77651/
Mentions the damper falls out of position when pulling the combustion blower - may be problematic in replacing
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/whitfield-tradition-t300p-question.59536/
Last post mentions passage to damper ash filled...
Good luck...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/whitfield-tradition-t300p-2-poor-combustion.77651/
Mentions the damper falls out of position when pulling the combustion blower - may be problematic in replacing
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/whitfield-tradition-t300p-question.59536/
Last post mentions passage to damper ash filled...
Good luck...
DDH1987----did you ever discover the problem?
My T300p is doing the same thing....erratic shutdown
Stan
Stan,
I ended up doing a lot of things trying to resolve the problem. I eventually replaced the auger. As I recall, I think it was the primary problem but I also had some minor issues with cleaning out the two blowers, passageways, and getting the damper freed up. It ended up working fine eventually but I still don't think it runs quite as nice as my other stove (Whitfield). To clean the blowers and passageways I had to break down many of the components in the back but it was truly needed.
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