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weight of chimney

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Malak, Aug 4, 2008.

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  1. Malak

    Malak New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2008
    Messages:
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    Loc:
    North Central CT
    I'm going straight up thru my living room ceiling and thru
    the roof with the official kit to do such and I'm using the
    20 pound each, 3' sections, of double-insulated pipe.

    My question is what is really supposed to be supporting
    the weight of all that chimney vertically? Is it really the
    stove i.e. you can't move the stove for any reason without
    diassembling the pipe first or is it the "socket" in the ceiling
    adaptor where the wide end DSP pipe adaptor sits? I think
    regardless, I'm going to put some straps in the attic in case
    I forget 5 years from now and get 60 pounds of chimney
    crashing thru my ceiling.

    thanks

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  2. Nic36

    Nic36 Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2008
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    Loc:
    Decatur, Alabama
    There should be no support from the stove. All the support will be in the "socket" as you call it from the ceiling support. I used Selkirk chimney and the instructions said it will hold up to 50 feet of chimney sections. That's quite a bit. I used 13 feet of chimney. I think you be fine as long as you don't exceed what the instructions say. I was more worried about wind action outside since I had about 7 feet of chimney exposed from the roof. I had to install a brace.
  3. Malak

    Malak New Member

    Joined:
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    Loc:
    North Central CT
    Yeah, I already came to that conclusion, and bought some angle braces to reinforce the framing I did for the socket.

    Thanks!
  4. Nic36

    Nic36 Feeling the Heat

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    Loc:
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    No problem. Sounds like you got a handle on things. My install went OK, but keep in mind before you completely nail or screw in the ceiling support to your frame to re-check to see that the ceiling support it is level left to right and front to back. I was just a bit off because I did not double check from front to back. It wasn't off enough for me to worry about though. I used screws instead of nails. Much easier to use screws inside the support box than nails. Also, easier to remove than nails in case of a screw-up or removal later. I pre-drilled the metal tabs on the ceiling support. It was easier for me to screw or nail through the pre-drilled holes.
  5. Malak

    Malak New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2008
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    Loc:
    North Central CT
    It sounds like we really think alike because I use drywall screws for everything!

    Did you notice that if you put the clamp on the DSP adaptor then the end won't
    fit down into the "socket"? I think I'm going to just seal it with that Home Depot
    fire sealant instead.

    Good point about it being level, but even more important is making sure the adaptor
    that slides against the ceiling is flush before you screw it to the frame.

    I had to measure 112 inches from my attic hatch to the living room and I made a
    1/8" hole and bingo! The stove exit was directly below. Whew! LOL
  6. Nic36

    Nic36 Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2008
    Messages:
    428
    Loc:
    Decatur, Alabama
    I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to. What brand are you using? I used the Supervent stuff they sell at Lowe's, so it may be a bit different if you are using something else.

    I probably measured everything a hundred times to make sure I was going to cut holes in the right spot. A little nerve racking to cut a big hole in the ceiling and roof, but not that bad.
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