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Wood Gun rear inspection door gasket

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by muncybob, Sep 16, 2010.

  1. muncybob

    muncybob Minister of Fire

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    I noticed last year that there is a small gap that I cannot adjust the door enough to remedy. I have not noticed any smoke escape to this point but I thought before this heating season perhaps I should do something before the gap and inherent air leak becomes a problem. Mfr sent me a rope gasket...although they were to have me what they called a "kit"...so after a couple of pone calls I received the "kit" which is 2 parts...a small tube of Gunk RTV gasket maker and a gasket that appears to be some sort of heavy rubber. I had planned on taking out the old gasket and installing the new rubber type one and of course sealed with RTV but then I thought that since the gap I have is not very long or deep could I not just apply another layer of RTV to the existing one to build it up a bit and hopefully have full contact between door and boiler?

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  2. sdrobertson

    sdrobertson Minister of Fire

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    I would try the build-up first. If it doesn't work you still have the replacement materials to redo it. If it does work then you have the spare for future use. It doesnt sound like it is leaking now so it shouldn't be hard to fix it.
  3. muncybob

    muncybob Minister of Fire

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    I was thinking the same thing. I've never seen a gasket like this one...seems like it's some sort of rubber but perhaps it's similar to the newer Eko silicone ones I've read about?
  4. Fred61

    Fred61 Minister of Fire

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    Erosion of the door gaskets was one of my biggest beefs with the Wood Gun. You may not see smoke coming from the leak but there are gasses and particles coming out. If you don't repair it, you will eventually see soot on your walls, ceilings and curtains, assuming your boiler is inside. My analysis is that the design of the doors, with the gasket on the same plane as the refractory does not protect the silicone gasket from eroding. I fought the problem for the ten years that I ran the unit.

    I suggest you just apply a coat of RTV to the area. Installing a new gasket won't do you much good since the problem isn't with the gasket but with the silicone coating spread over it which breaks down due to the extreme temperatures it is subjected to. It will happen again, even with the new gasket.

    I kept a supply of RTV on hand at all times and when a patch was needed I simply applied a coat to the area then brought the door loosely up to the mating surface with a piece of waxed paper between the two surfaces and allowed it to cure.
  5. muncybob

    muncybob Minister of Fire

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    I remember that was one of your problems. I noticed only when I happened to be at the back of the boiler without any lights on in the basement and could barely make out a light coming through the door seal while it was running. Seems both the front doors are fine...at least to this point.
  6. muncybob

    muncybob Minister of Fire

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    Upon closer inspection the actual gasket was breaking down so I will be replacing it. Looking on the internet I have seen some rope type gaskets that are rated to very high temps. Seems to me if a material is rated to a higher temp that what is produced in the chambers of the WG that would be the way to go?
  7. Fred61

    Fred61 Minister of Fire

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    You may be on the right track. I just tried to continuously repair what was there rather than doing their engineering for them and actually find materials that will withstand the temperatures the gasket is subjected to.

    On my unit, the gasket was coated with a smearing of high temp. RTV. The temperature far exceeded the working temp. of the rubber and turned it into rubber crumbs.
  8. muncybob

    muncybob Minister of Fire

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    I'm really thinking seriously about this....any ideas out there as to the temp a door gasket on a WG should be rated to?

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