wood stove install

[smmm]

I am about to install a buck model 81 in my basement. I have a few questions I want to ask before I start. It is a walk out basement with a few windows. I will need to go through a poured concrete wall that is about 8" thick.

1- What is the difference between some of the double wall stainless chimneys. I have priced 6" x 36" anywhere from $70 - $150. All say 2" clearance from combustibles. Any suggestions?

2- I think I need to use a wall thimble. I will be about 18" below my sill plate. Is there any structural precautions I should take on where I should cut my 11" hole? Can I butt my hole right up to the vertical steel sections that run about every 3'? Does the thimble have the 1/4" drop or do I need to angle the core drill? I am going to buy a wall kit.?

3- When the pipe/chimney exits the house it will be under the back porch. I am going to cut part of this away and build a chase that will run up through the attic and through the roof. Where should my black stove pipe end and class A chimney begin? Inside the thimble?

I will be having someone help me with some experience but want to make sure that it is being done right. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[DAKSY]

I am about to install a buck model 81 in my basement. I have a few questions I want to ask before I start. It is a walk out basement with a few windows. I will need to go through a poured concrete wall that is about 8" thick.

1- What is the difference between some of the double wall stainless chimneys. I have priced 6" x 36" anywhere from $70 - $150. All say 2" clearance from combustibles. Any suggestions?

Personally, I'd get the one with the best warranty. I used Excel pipe. It's costy, but has a lifetime warranty for replacement. What ever you can afford that meets all your local codes will probably work.

2- I think I need to use a wall thimble. I will be about 18" below my sill plate. Is there any structural precautions I should take on where I should cut my 11" hole? Can I butt my hole right up to the vertical steel sections that run about every 3'? Does the thimble have the 1/4" drop or do I need to angle the core drill? I am going to buy a wall kit.?

You need a wall thimble. I does not have to be an insulated thimble if it has 12" of concrete between it & the nearest combustible.
Not sure what you mean by the "vertical steel sections" so I can't answer that. I don't believe you need the 1/4" drop over an 8" length, so drill straight thru. After you get the thimble in the hole, pack hydraulic cement around it to seal it good. Your tee will support the vertical sections above it & may require wall brackets every 5 or so feet.

3- When the pipe/chimney exits the house it will be under the back porch. I am going to cut part of this away and build a chase that will run up through the attic and through the roof. Where should my black stove pipe end and class A chimney begin? Inside the thimble?

Your Class A pipe has to pass thru the thimble. Connector pipe CANNOT pass thru a wall or ceiling. There has to be a flue extension where you attach your connector pipe to the Class A inside the wall. At the other end of the Class A that passes thru your thimble (outside the wall) is where the Tee attaches.

I will be having someone help me with some experience but want to make sure that it is being done right. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Good luck with your project. If you run into a glitch & you don't know what to do - DO NOT WING IT! Come back & ask for guidance. There's a LOT of useful knowledge here!

 

[tutu_sue]

I have Simpson venting and with their pipe, the chimney extends horizontally 6 inches into the room and then there is a connector to provide secure attachment to the stove pipe. The longest that horizontal pipe can be is 24" Outside, it goes into a tee with a bottom clean out that's held by a bracket to the house and then wall straps at least every 8 feet. Also, you can also use elbows to go around the eaves instead of cutting into the roof. At the web site, you can download a planning catalog with the offset chart and that shows how to measure because the length of the pipe is reduced by the twist lock connection (same goes for stove pipe but a different amount). You also need a certain distance of pipe above the roof depending on what's within a certain distance. The chimney pipe sections also go up to 48".

Also with the evil outdoor chimney and a daylight or otherwise basement you most likely will have trouble with the smoky reverse draft when the stove's cold. That is due to the stack effect. Using an outside air kit may help, but the best thing is to have a chimney within the heated envelope of the house. You won't have to deal with smoky startups or have carbon monoxide worries. Please seek www.woodheat.org for more information.

 

[soupy1957]

You said, "I will be having someone help me with some experience.........."

As for me, in spite of my "willing to try it" approach to life, ..........I hired a "Professional" and checked out their reputation before I did so.

My home and family are too valuable to me, to have a potential screw up that could cost me the loss of those very precious parts of my life.

Nothing against "doing it yourself" you understand. There are some things though...............

-Soupy1957

 

[smmm]

Thanks for the replies. THe vertical steel sections I believe is to tie in the rebar. Not exactly sure though. I am not that familiar with with poured walls. One other question. Couple morew questions.
1- Is there a specific type of stone veneer that I should use behind the wood stove? The poured walls are painted now. I want to secure metal lathe to them and put up some type of stone veneer behind the stove.
2- SInce I do not need an insulated thimble, any recommendations on what thimble I should use.
That is probably not the last question. I am sure I will have more as I proceed.

 

[tiber]

I'm currently playing ping pong with my township right now on the same topic. I highly suggest the simpson stuff - they make one of everything and the manuals are written really well. Their tech support, while not wholly supportive to the point of charity, has answered most of my specific questions.

Going through a poured concrete foundation is a PITA any way you do it. I suggest either sacraficing a window or going straight up. I had an impact drill for mounting my whole house water filter to the wall and I will tell you even with the right tools, drilling small 3/4" holes in it was a pain. I couldn't imagine doing 8". The guy you see doing the install through his basement wall - that wall is cement block and it's a wholly different animal than poured cement.

The thimble, if you're really dead set on going through the concrete wall, you don't need it. You can get away with their trim pieces. Caulk around the pipe with any high quality fire rated caulk.

With regards to any wall covering - the only requirement is nonflammable for two inches all directions from class A pipe. You'd probably want to knock that paint off.