new daka wood burning furnace install questions

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STIHLY DAN said:
If you look at the instructions it shows the Daka next to the furnace. This is for 2 reasons, for the furnace fan help pull a venture effect on the daka, also so when power goes out the unit dumps right into the plenum and up the duct work. A 20 ft run of the daka to a plenum will not allow this to happen. Especially when not tied into the same return plenum.
P.S there is a reason Daka states in the manual to have a professional with experience with solid fuel units to o the install. These are more difficult with a different set of rules than installing a conventional unit. Much more dangerous as well.
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Well as I said before I have a backup generator with a manual transfer switch that lights up my whole house if power is out.

Most here are saying that the daka blower will supply there whole house through ductwork runs I'm sure are longer than 20 ft and most not even using the blower on there main furnace and now you're saying that somehow the daka blower can't push the air 20ft across my basement to the main furnace where it can take over from there?

Ya your right I definitely think I should of called hvac company and had them do this so they could charge me 10 grand so at that point would completely negate any potential savings I'd get from burning wood for the next ten years. ..... you sound like an hvac tech. I'd be shocked if I didn't get a bill for your last 2 comments
 
STIHLY DAN said:
by the way can I/we just call you tom?
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Ha! Yeah, probably not the easiest user name to spell. Call me Tom if you'd like...most call me Dave though >>
 
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markyrocks said:
Well as I said before I have a backup generator with a manual transfer switch that lights up my whole house if power is out.

Most here are saying that the daka blower will supply there whole house through ductwork runs I'm sure are longer than 20 ft and most not even using the blower on there main furnace and now you're saying that somehow the daka blower can't push the air 20ft across my basement to the main furnace where it can take over from there?

Ya your right I definitely think I should of called hvac company and had them do this so they could charge me 10 grand so at that point would completely negate any potential savings I'd get from burning wood for the next ten years. ..... you sound like an hvac tech. I'd be shocked if I didn't get a bill for your last 2 comments
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So what happens when you not at home and the power goes out? The heat will stay in the wood furnace. It will overheat. Than you can say goodbye to your house. It doesn't cost 10k to have someone install it for you. Your probably just better off selling the daka and trying to get your money back.
 
markyrocks said:
Most here are saying that the daka blower will supply there whole house through ductwork runs I'm sure are longer than 20 ft and most not even using the blower on there main furnace and now you're saying that somehow the daka blower can't push the air 20ft across my basement to the main furnace where it can take over from there?
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That distance isn't so much a problem when the power is on as when the power goes down. I know you said you have genny, but you won't always be there or awake when power goes down. Things go bad quickly when you have furnace with a belly full of fire and no cooling to it. There is a reason most insurance companys charge a premium for wood burners...DIY install of what some consider to be the most dangerous heating method. Also the reason many ins co require pro install.
As I mentioned before, I'd put a heat dump on the supply side. Probably have to put a plenum on the Daka to do this...that would get you past this obstacle though.

markyrocks said:
I'd be shocked if I didn't get a bill for your last 2 comments
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Oh you gettin a bill now! ;lol
Wisneaky said:
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:>>


How's it going Tom
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Finer than frog hairs! :) ;) :p >> ::-) ;lol
 
Wisneaky said:
So what happens when you not at home and the power goes out? The heat will stay in the wood furnace. It will overheat. Than you can say goodbye to your house. It doesn't cost 10k to have someone install it for you. Your probably just better off selling the daka and trying to get your money back.
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For one there is someone here 24/7 me and wife work opposite shifts... 2. I really have no intention of using this if we're not going to be home. 3. My power has literally gone out 1 time for more than 5 minutes in the past two years. 4. I have forced draft kit so if the power goes out and there's no one here the fire is going to have about enough oxygen to stay lit.... am I leaving anything else out. O my furnace broke needed replaced in june. I got quoted at 7k for replacement air handler and compressor. So you think installing this with the chimney and all this extra ductwork and bs wouldn't cost 10k? Lol you must live in a fantasy
 
markyrocks said:
For one there is someone here 24/7 me and wife work opposite shifts... 2. I really have no intention of using this if we're not going to be home. 3. My power has literally gone out 1 time for more than 5 minutes in the past two years. 4. I have forced draft kit so if the power goes out and there's no one here the fire is going to have about enough oxygen to stay lit.... am I leaving anything else out. O my furnace broke needed replaced in june. I got quoted at 7k for replacement air handler and compressor. So you think installing this with the chimney and all this extra ductwork and bs wouldn't cost 10k? Lol you must live in a fantasy
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You should learn how the force draft works. The force draft only kicks on when it calls for heat. It still sucks air in to feed the fire no matter if there is power or not. The force draft is a blower for "extra" needed air. It doesn't magically put out the fire when its not on.
 
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markyrocks said:
I got quoted at 7k for replacement air handler and compressor
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Wow, you must be livin UPtown! My HVAC guy will do gas furnace/central air replacement for $5k total

markyrocks said:
I have forced draft kit so if the power goes out and there's no one here the fire is going to have about enough oxygen to stay lit....
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What you have to understand is once the fan gets the fire stoked up (it takes some time to build up) you have 5 or 600 #s of steel/brick that will take some time to cool down, even with the duct blower running.
Once the tstat is satisfied and the combustion fan shuts off (same as power fail in your example) the duct blower can still run for quite a while sometimes.
Even when the combustion fan is not running, the furnace is still making heat and the duct blower will need to run occasionally.
 
my force draft only turns on when the stove is first fired up and at the end of the burn cycle 12 hours or so later when my house is cooling down and the fire is almost burnt completely out.
 
Wisneaky said:
my force draft only turns on when the stove is first fired up and at the end of the burn cycle 12 hours or so later when my house is cooling down and the fire is almost burnt completely out.
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Well I haven't personally seen it in action yet. Umm the manual describes at kicking on to fulfill thermostat then off and "the fire returns to a maintenance level" . I assume that the amount of oxygen it allows in while not on would be twards the lower side... sure it's not going to automatically put the fire out but starving it of oxygen would slow it down for sure..
 
All I can say, Mark, is best of luck. You came looking for insight and suggestions and they've been aplenty. You seem to have your own answers to everything so go ahead with the single 8" run, no proper return, etc. Just for the record, I AM an HVAC guy.

Dave
 
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Davej_07 said:
All I can say, Mark, is best of luck. You came looking for insight and suggestions and they've been aplenty. You seem to have your own answers to everything so go ahead with the single 8" run, no proper return, etc. Just for the record, I AM an HVAC guy.
Dave
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Good bc now I know your opinion is worthless. beat it
 
Wisneaky said:
it flows upstairs at an upward angle. Not 20' over to a plenum than plus how ever long your duct trunk is than plus the extra feet for your runs upstairs.
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So would it be ok if it ran to the other plenum at an upwards angle? I'm not concerned about the heat reaching the living space in regards to this issue I'm more concerned with the safety side of it.
 
markyrocks said:
I believe that's from over loading the stove. I'm not saying it's right but dudes house still standing. ...
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it's from over firing. More than likely also contributed from only using one of the outlets which is causing excess heat buildup.
 
markyrocks said:
I believe that's from over loading the stove. I'm not saying it's right but dudes house still standing. ...
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Ever hear the saying "don't drive faster than your guardian angel can fly"? ...means don't push your luck.
Any time you see a white area where the firebox is...the unit has been run HARD, REAL HARD! Things like improper install contribute too that. power outage over heat, auto draft sticking, improper chimney setup overdrafting...the list goes on. I GARANTEE you those units have severly comprimised lifespan now...so much for saving money when you hafta buy a new furnace every two years. Same people that grumble about POS Daka stove, go buy a different brand...rinse and repeat. :rolleyes: ;hm
markyrocks said:
Good bc now I know your opinion is worthless. beat it
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So now any pro is an idiot? How would you feel about driving to work over bridges designed/built by a DIYer like yourself?
Keep up with comments like that and not only do you get no help, won't take long the mods will have you banned...
 
You need to make two phone calls and clearly & fully run your ideas past the people on the other end of the phone & see what they have to say about it.

First call would be to your house insurance person.

Second call would be to Daka.

Chances are you will come out of those calls saying their opinions are worthless also...
 
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