New England 25-pdvc/55-shp10

We just bought our daughter this pellet stove.
The first time we started it it took about 10-12 minutes to lite.
We thought that must be normal.
She burned about two bags of pellets thru it then let it shut down while she was gone
The next time we attempted to lite it,after I cleaned it out good it would not lite
I shut it down and cleaned the pellets that had built up out.
tried again and it lit up
This morning I went over to start it up and it would not lite.
Cleaned it all out and again it would not lite
The manual says to have the board set to 5-9 during start up so I tried that and this time it did lite
Only in the manual does it say too do this,not sure if this helps at start up or what or if it just happened to lite
Kinda wishing now I would not of bought this stove.
It seems there are a lot of start up issues with this stove
I tried to get through to customer support today and had no luck
Half tempted to take it back to home depot and make them return it for a full refund
There has to be an issue with this stove as too many people have issues
Any ideas?
Thanks for any input

Ssyko said:

If the stove doesn’t lite the first time just hit start again leave what fell in it. They are tempermental.if it doesn’t lite the second time around thats when there is an issue. Some of the new stoves have needed the igniter adjusted a little bit. Is the stove working ok otherwise?

Click to expand...

The stove seemed ok for a couple days but now it won't light at all
I pulled the igniter out to look at it then put it back in.
Attempted to restart it now I see the top auger is not working
Ive had enough with this stove ,just called Lowes to see what I have to do to return it
I spent 2 hours this morning trying to get thru to customer service at the manufacturer and finally gave up
This is twice I couldn't get thru
The stove is no good the way iy is and Ive had enough,
Getting my refund hopefully and going to get a better brand
Will never buy another item like this from a big box store

Pete Zahria said:

I have one in my garage...
I just light the stove manually, it takes about 2 minutes.
I had a couple of times that the self start, didn't..
Just easier and faster to light it yourself.
And you can see that it is going.
I have had absolutely no issues have had it 4 years or so..
Does a great job in the garage..
It was -10° this morning, and the shop was 40°... stove is on #1...
1 bag ~22-23 hours.

Dan

Click to expand...

I called Lowes and they are going to exchange it for another and see if it will work ok
Lighting it manually won't help when the top auger won't run
We bought this for our daughter and I don't want her to have to light it manually
I would of lit it myself just to get it going but now the top auger won't run so thats not going to work
Less then 5 bags burnt in this stove and already problems
Going tomorrow morning to exchange it.
Hopefully next one will work

Ok I went over to my daughters to tinker with the stove
I have a little better idea how the system works I think.
I aligned the igniter up and now the stove ignites in about 3-5 minutes 6 out of 6 times
Problem is the upper auger won't run.
I should of taken a meter with me but forgot so I am assuming right now but I jumped out the hopper lid switch and the vacuum
switch that has a hose going to the front of the stove and still no auger
It looks to me as the board supplies power to this circuit all the time thru the yellow and black wires
Its a simple circuit unless I am missing something
Either the drive motor on the auger is bad or I have no voltage from the board
If I unplug the other vacuum switch from the exhaust blower I get an error code
so i assume all is ok there
Am I missing something on the upper auger circuit?
Is this circuit 110v?
Does the glass fuse protect the entire board from shorts?

i switched the wires between the auger motors but the top auger still won't run
looks like motor took a crap already
Wish I could just get a motor tomorrow but that won't happen
It is lighting so good now after aligning the element
Be different if it wasn't so cold but she needs the stove now

Lowes offered to swap out the stove
May look into a new motor from a local shop
Then maybe send this one in for a new one so I have a spare

Ssyko said:

1 other thing to try and i hope you dont have the same issue i had.. you can put the stove into diagnostics buy unpluging the stove wait 5 sec. plug in and hold down low burn air and air on temp buttons for 10 sec then let go of the buttons. you should get 2 Dashes in the leds push the left arrow up button and see if the top auger moves (it should not yet). then push rt arrow up button and the combustion motor should start and the top auger will start at this time also. you should see to small o o in the led's if you push the bottom arrows they will start the lower auger and convection blower and you will see 8 8 in the LEDs if you do this and the upper auger work more than likely something happened the the control board. and i would swap the stove out

Click to expand...

I will try this buy most likely I am taking the stove back today for a replacement
Lowes is very good about taking care of this
I just hope the new one will lite as good as this one is now
I am curious as to what happened to this auger,the stove is on a surge protector
It was working fine but my daughter pushed the shut down button by mistake instead of the heat down button
After that it would not light back up and this auger issue appeared
I went over to adjust the igniter and when I started it back up I noticed the auger wasn't running
All I know for sure is that when I switched wires between motors the upper auger still wouldn't run
If the stove was older or been used a lot I would spend the time trouble shooting it to find the problem
I just got pretty upset that I just bought this unit and was already working on it,that and being on hold for 2 hrs with customer service
had me pretty pissed
All well ,thanks for all the help,I really do appreciate the knowledge people have and how they offer to help people
Too many people get ripped of when they are forced to have a service person come to their house
By no means do I mean all service men but their are some that are only interested in the money
Not just in stuff like this but in a lot of different things
Thanks again and happy new year!

Today I got the new stove and installed it
Three attempts and it would not lite on its own
I finally just lit the pellets by the igniter hole with a hand firestarter
I could see the igniter glowing in the hole but it just doesn't get the pellets very hot
When we bought the stove I just stopped at my local Tractor Supply and picked up 10 bags of pellets to try
They store their pellets outside,not sure if this is normal or not,I also hauled them around in the back of my truck
under the bed tarp for a week,possibly they got damp somewhere along the line
Thing is they started with a lighter no problem
We are going to burn up the rest of these pellets and try some from another place see what happens
My only issue is I had the other stove igniting these same pellets without a hitch
I hate to start messing with this stove adjusting the igniter
Im going to send an email to the manufacturer and see what they suggest
On a better note it may just be me but this stove seems to burn way hotter then the other one did
not sure if they changed something in the design or not or just because its a bit warmer outside it seems burning better
Watching the stove burn makes me wonder what keeps the pellets from igniting the ones in the lower auger
and start burning within the auger tube

Ssyko said:

Do the igniter adjustment it seams to be the common denominator in most pdvc no starts (been a rash of them lately) un plug the stove while you do this. I carry bags around in my truck for weight (tis the season) and i dont think they get damp they work good for me.

Click to expand...

yep,it seems thats the issue is with the igniter placement
I just hate to open up a brand new stove.
Ill wait till week after next,our weather is suppose to be better then
Its usable now so I don't want to mess with it right now
I slid the other igniter forward about a 1/16 inch and lined it up better to the hole
If I knew the hole in the stove lined up perfect to the igniter bore I would just make a new bushing that fit better in the bore so it aligned itself up
better,the factory bushing has so much slop in it

This stove has an entirely better flame and puts out more heat then the other one for some reason
I didn't think to look under the pot to see if maybe they eliminated the two holes that guys were plugging to get a better burn
I will look sometime
I want to talk to the customer service guys before I take this one apart to adjust the igniter
What is the proper placement for it?
I moved the collar back 1/16 inch to let the igniter sit closer to the pellets and tried to center it better
I know it lit perfect after this,my concerned is as why the top auger quit at the same time I had it apart
I unhooked power first
I don't want to go thru the same thing again

Heres something interesting I just found
I went out this morning to get my tools out of the bed of my truck
There was a plate laying in there among the box of tools,
I got worried it was from the stove we just installed,my daughter sent me a picture of her stove and this plate
is installed on her stove
It is the cover plate #7 on the explode view of parts in the manual
It was never installed on the first stove
Must of been laying in the box or something
It has never had a bolt in it
I wonder if it allowed the combustion blower to draw too much air causing the bad burn of the first stove
How would this of ever left the factory without being noticed?

Ssyko said:

#7 is a clean out/cooling air panel for the combustion motor its just for looks and cooling. has nothing to do with the burn function of the stove. I know your leary of opening up the stove but if you unplug it anytime you work on it and ground yourself before touching the control board (if you need to). It will be fine.

Click to expand...

Ok,Just thought with it not installed it would affect how much air was drawn in
I know this stove burns better
Thanks for your help
Happy New Year

tpmcx said:

Ok,Just thought with it not installed it would affect how much air was drawn in
I know this stove burns better
Thanks for your help
Happy New Year

Click to expand...

I have a question about venting
I purchased an entire vent package with everything to vent thru the wall and up maybe 6 ft
Problem is its so cold right now I wasn't able to get it ran up outside.
I am going to have to find the house studs and make a bracket to bolt to the house and step out to the
Support bracket that came with the kit
I just went through the wall and out about 2 ft or so and put on the end diffuser
I am having an issue with getting the T connector to face straight up because of the twist lock pellet pipe
The thing that caused an issue was the corner instal I did and having to use a 45 deg elbow out of the stove
This takes away the ability of just turning the pipe on the stove to get the outside T to face straight up
I know that the stoves can be installed straight thru the wall and terminate as long as the exhaust is not close to the ground or possible snow build
up
The biggest reason not to do it is because of a power failure and loosing the natural draft the entire system provides
My issue is how to correct this,Just a straight connector with a swivel joint built it would take care of this
After this cold spell this week I will finish the vent as needed
Any ideas on how to get the T to rotate as needed?

tpmcx said:

I have a question about venting
I purchased an entire vent package with everything to vent thru the wall and up maybe 6 ft
Problem is its so cold right now I wasn't able to get it ran up outside.
I am going to have to find the house studs and make a bracket to bolt to the house and step out to the
Support bracket that came with the kit
I just went through the wall and out about 2 ft or so and put on the end diffuser
I am having an issue with getting the T connector to face straight up because of the twist lock pellet pipe
The thing that caused an issue was the corner instal I did and having to use a 45 deg elbow out of the stove
This takes away the ability of just turning the pipe on the stove to get the outside T to face straight up
I know that the stoves can be installed straight thru the wall and terminate as long as the exhaust is not close to the ground or possible snow build
up
The biggest reason not to do it is because of a power failure and loosing the natural draft the entire system provides
My issue is how to correct this,Just a straight connector with a swivel joint built it would take care of this
After this cold spell this week I will finish the vent as needed
Any ideas on how to get the T to rotate as needed?

Click to expand...

We just left my daughters house,stopped just to see her and check out the stove
I know I am new to pellet stoves but this thing is something when it burns
On high it has an aggressive flame that actually concerns me.
It just burns so aggressive.
I turned it down to 4 and 9 and to me it burns fine there
No matter where you set it every couple minutes it sounds like a small helicopter going over the house
The first stove burned nothing like this one
It actually has a small rumble to it every few minutes
We have an outdoor Hardy wood furnace/boiler that has the forced draft blower I guess to some extent its like the pellet stove
as far as the air to burn being fed into it
I assume its this forced sir that causes the slight rumble in the stove
We also have a Brunco wood burner in the living room so burning wood is nothing to me,been doing it for close to 40 years
I guess the pellet stove being new to us I just don't know what to expect.
I believe if this got too hot the high limit would just shut down the augers and it would go out
Probably worrying about nothing
On another note how many bags of pellets can you normally burn before you need to scrape some out of the burn chamber?