1 cord of wood equals how much propane?

[farmer]

If your house used 2000 Gallons of propane a year how many cords of wood would it take to replace the propane?
If I put a gasification outdoor boiler in would take a lot of cords of wood?
I’m know the wood should be under 20 percent moisture.
I have ran an older style owb but was wondering how much less wood would you use if you put in a gasification boiler. I have read 50 percent less. Was wondering if someone ever had an older style then went to a gasification if they saved that much?

 

[ABMax24]

Doing a straight across energy conversion, 2,000 gallons of propane is 183 million BTU. Assuming a wood like birch at 20 million BTU per cord that's 9.15 cords. This is assuming 100% energy conversion in a propane heater and in a wood heater of some type.

We would need to know the efficiency of the existing propane heater to make a better comparison. Assuming your existing heater is 95% efficient, and a new boiler like a Polar G2 is 80% efficient, you'd need about 11 cords per year.

I'm not a wood boiler guy, so I can't really help you there, this is just how the math works out for heat load and fuel consumption.

 

[brenndatomu]

My folks converted from a 20 YO Central Boiler to a HeatMaster G10000 this last fall....its looking like there will be a 50-60% wood savings this year.

 

[farmer]

My folks converted from a 20 YO Central Boiler to a HeatMaster G10000 this last fall....its looking like there will be a 50-60% wood savings this year.

If you cut and split the wood in early spring would that be enough drying time? I presume they have to have the wood in a shed out of the weather that you put in the boiler? Have they said how much more upkeep they think the gasification boiler will be?

 

[rwh63]

If you cut and split the wood in early spring would that be enough drying time? I presume they have to have the wood in a shed out of the weather that you put in the boiler? Have they said how much more upkeep they think the gasification boiler will be?

NO!

 

[peakbagger]

If you cut and split the wood in early spring would that be enough drying time? I presume they have to have the wood in a shed out of the weather that you put in the boiler? Have they said how much more upkeep they think the gasification boiler will be?

Unless you use a forced drying system like a solar kiln, most hardwoods require 2 years of appropriate drying conditions after its cut split and stacked. Sitting in log length really does not count and winter drying below freezing is minimal. Ideally long rows of wood at most three stack deep (preferably 2 deep) up on pallets with a top cover in the sun exposed to breezes. The top cover should be spaced up off the top of the pile as most os the moisture will exit the stack through the top. A true gasifier will not burn damp poorly seasoned wood. There may be bypass mode available in the unit but most of the heat will be going up the stack. An outdoor gasifier is less efficient than an indoor unit as even though it may be insulated its heating the outdoors versus heating an indoor space.

 

[brenndatomu]

If you cut and split the wood in early spring would that be enough drying time?

Only if you are cutting known fast drying woods (usually lower BTU stuff) or maybe dead/dry EAB ash, but that is only gonna be around for so long now.

I presume they have to have the wood in a shed out of the weather that you put in the boiler?

Yes, a well ventilated wood shed.

Have they said how much more upkeep they think the gasification boiler will be?

So far it appears very little...they were prepared for "more", but so far it has not turned out that way...we'll see long term. But just for the wood savings and getting rid of the ever present cloud of smoke its worth a little extra maintenance, or whatever.
And speaking of the wood savings...the shed holds 17.5 cords of wood, that was not enough for a year before...about 4-5 cords short actually...it looks like now that 17.5 will almost be enough for 2 years! (BTW, this thing is heating 2 houses and 2 shops)

 

[hobbyheater]

If your house used 2000 Gallons of propane a year how many cords of wood would it take to replace the propane?
If I put a gasification outdoor boiler in would take a lot of cords of wood?
I’m know the wood should be under 20 percent moisture.
I have ran an older style owb but was wondering how much less wood would you use if you put in a gasification boiler. I have read 50 percent less. Was wondering if someone ever had an older style then went to a gasification if they saved that much?

In the early 80's had a boiler like the one pictured it burned 22 cords in one year.


A Jetstream boiler with storage heating the same house burns 4 cords!

 

[JRHAWK9]

If your house used 2000 Gallons of propane a year how many cords of wood would it take to replace the propane?

Here's my real world results going off our past records.

I replaced ~1,100 gallons of propane with ~4.4 cords of red oak. With the Kuuma VF100 the house is warmer and I'm partially heating the basement with the Kuuma vs not heating it at all with the LP furnace.

75kBTU 92% Trane LP furnace and a 80% efficient Kuuma VF100.

What chunk of your total utilities is heating and Domestic Hot Water?

My solar does financially make sense. Because I only paid 45% of its cost due to tax credits (Fed and State) back in '18. Tax credits are going down, and break even time is going up therefore. Even then 13 years to break even may not sound nice, but another 13 years after that with no...

www.hearth.com

If you get a good OWB, your probably going to be burning wood and transferring the heat a little bit more efficient than I am.

 

[Jacon Construction]

If you cut and split the wood in early spring would that be enough drying time? I presume they have to have the wood in a shed out of the weather that you put in the boiler? Have they said how much more upkeep they think the gasification boiler will be?

Maple takes a year to season 2” ( a 8” log takes 2 years).

 

[farmer]

Thanks for all the input. Sounds like 10 cord should take care of what I want it to do. Just didn’t want to have to burn double that.
Any of the boilers out there less upkeep and less parts to replace compared to others?
Just a big investment but with energy cost so high probably pay back faster than I think.

 

[brenndatomu]

What are you heating exactly?
What OWB do you have now?
Having just given input on my folks buying their new boiler last summer, and now getting feedback from them on the HeatMaster that they installed, I still recommend the HM G series.

 

[farmer]

2500 sq ft old house. Very leaky and probably not worth sticking a lot of money into. It just goes through a lot of lp. I’m not using wood at all there now.
I have a old central boiler where I live so I know how they can go through the wood. It has been very reliable and hardly any maintenance or parts to replace.
Just looking for ways to really cut down the gas man coming out.

 

[brenndatomu]

2500 sq ft old house. Very leaky and probably not worth sticking a lot of money into. It just goes through a lot of lp. I’m not using wood at all there now.
I have a old central boiler where I live so I know how they can go through the wood. It has been very reliable and hardly any maintenance or parts to replace.
Just looking for ways to really cut down the gas man coming out.

I bet a HM G4 would do the trick for you

 

[farmer]

Are central boilers any good? I just have more dealers closer to me. That why I ask.

 

[brenndatomu]

Central boiler seems to have "lost a step" in the last 6-8 years (in my opinion) but they still sell plenty of them I think, they've just been passed by as king of the hill like they once were.
It almost seems like they spent so much time and energy (and money) fighting the new emission regs that were coming that they just got one upped by some other manufacturers that just embraced the change and did their homework.

 

[stoveliker]

2500 sq ft old house. Very leaky and probably not worth sticking a lot of money into. It just goes through a lot of lp. I’m not using wood at all there now.
I have a old central boiler where I live so I know how they can go through the wood. It has been very reliable and hardly any maintenance or parts to replace.
Just looking for ways to really cut down the gas man coming out.

I don't get the remark "not worth sticking a lot of money into" when you're looking at buying a boiler... It's likely (for a drafty home) that you can save way more per dollar spent by insulating and sealing (as DIY, not hired work). If you are going to stay here a while, it's worth spending money. If you are not, then why looking at another boiler?

I don't have much boiler knowledge (other than what I learned on here, not owning one).
However, resolving your leaky house IS going to be your biggest fuel (wood or LP) saver that you can do.
A dozen bottles of caulk, and two dozen spray cans of foam can give a lot of savings goes a long way. (And spending $1000 on fiberglass to put on top of the stuff you already have in your attic after sealing all ceiling penetrations and gaps between top plates of internal and external walls and their drywall).
Weather stripping at the doors and windows where possible.

I spent 6 weekends in the two attics for a 1700 sqft home, pulling up R19 insulation, foaming all seems, silicone caulking all electronic penetrations (b/c don't want flammable foam to expand into electronics boxes). Then I added R38 batts crosswise over the R19 batts that were between the joists. The sealing was cheap. The insulation was expensive ($1000), the sealing and foaming maybe $100 or so.

It cut my (then oil) heating costs in half.

My $0.02

 

[farmer]

The foundation of the house is in bad shape. I’m not sure what it would take or cost to raise the house and put a new one under the house. Some walls need replacing to.
I was thinking of that I would replace the house down the road in a few years.
I was just thinking of putting the boiler in now and I could still use the boiler if I put another house there. I have a lot of wood that I can use.
Maybe I’m not thinking in the right away about the house. I know building a house isn’t getting any cheaper. The studs are probably the only thing good on the house.

 

[stoveliker]

I understand. The (new) boiler would be placed back after such a big thing.

"A few years" could still be a decent amount of heating cost (either in wood labor, depending on how much you like that, or in fossil fuel purchases). So if you have the time and capability, the sealing may be decent return on investment. Every gallon of warm air not going up in the attic is one you don't have to heat. Yes, it'll be effort "wasted" if you replace the house, but it's effort that pays back immediately.

Anyway, that's my outlook on life, and that might not be the same for everyone else.

 

[farmer]

No I get what you are saying. I could spend some money sealing up the windows for the winter and looking at adding insulation some places that would be a quick payback and save on the heating bill.

 

[sloeffle]

Are central boilers any good? I just have more dealers closer to me. That why I ask.

The heat exchanger clean out on a CB is a nightmare compared to a lot of the other boilers. If you are on Facebook, join some of the OWB groups and do lots of research before pulling the trigger on a CB. IMHO - there are better boilers out there.

 

[hedge wood]

The foundation of the house is in bad shape. I’m not sure what it would take or cost to raise the house and put a new one under the house. Some walls need replacing to.
I was thinking of that I would replace the house down the road in a few years.
I was just thinking of putting the boiler in now and I could still use the boiler if I put another house there. I have a lot of wood that I can use.
Maybe I’m not thinking in the right away about the house. I know building a house isn’t getting any cheaper. The studs are probably the only thing good on the house.

I have been in on these deals twice. Once we moved a old house to a new location and put a new basement under it and the second one was jacked up moved over and a new basement put in. Never again. If a old house needs a new basement its time for the track hoe and big fire. Just build a super tight new house and be done with it. Last one we did is the one I currently live in this one the basement was good but we spent a bunch of time and money redoing this old house. No more old houses for me. Always remember this cutting wood is a life style.

 

[farmer]

I have the wood to use and enjoy doing it. Little tougher as I get older.
If the house didn’t have so many little rooms I probably put a wood stove in and take the edge off the propane bill.
I just didn’t want to put something in and have it take more wood than I think I could of put up.
I think 8 cord would probably take care of what I need it to. Just need to get ahead on my wood supply. Thanks for the help.

 

[salecker]

My brother and i are lifting my mom and dads house for a new basement.
Well worth the effort when you figure the cost of building up here.
I have moved some buildings over the years,my next shop is sitting as 3 metel frame buildings i moved into town.
If the building is worth the effort it is relatively easy to lift and or move it once it's on steel,we have 20 ft sections that bolt together,enough to make 2 80 ft beams.

 

[farmer]

Is there a big difference is the heat master and polar boilers? Those are the next 2 closer dealers besides central boiler.
One easier to operate or last any longer long term or a big price difference?