10-2-3 rule question

[NVHunter]

Ok, well I spent 8 hours yesterday trying to shove and pull a Stainless Steel liner down a poorly built flue (like whoever built the thing 40 yrs ago was cross eyed and clueless).

Let's just say they couldn't line up clay tiles to save their life and it's impossible to get ANY type of liner down it due to poorly built offsets.

Now I'm at plan B (which I should have just made plan A from the beginning). I am going to have a Class A system put up next to the existing masonry chimney.

It will only be a foot at the most away from the masonry chimney all the way up.

Does the new Class A need to be 2 feet above the existing chimney due to this rule or is it roof and combustible structure the rule is applicable for...?

Thanks

 

[begreen]

Is breaking out or removing the tile liner an option? That would seem to be easier, faster and less costly. The 10-3-2 rule applies to the roof and adjacent combustible structures.

 

[NVHunter]

No I don't think it's possible to break them out. There are two offsets around an upstairs fireplace and the chimney brick between the house the clay liner is 3.5". Looking at it it looks like the clay flue is mortared to the whole chimney instead of having a 1/2" clearance around it inside the chimney.

 

[ccmac]

Maybe I am misunderstanding but your flue is supposed to be mortared into the chimney. I have never heard of 1/2 inch clearance between the two.

 

[NVHunter]

Maybe I am misunderstanding but your flue is supposed to be mortared into the chimney. I have never heard of 1/2 inch clearance between the two.

If the clay flue is completely mortared to the chimney (whole circumference of the flue) how is it supposed to be broken out...? Seems like you'd be taking the chimney down too

 

[bholler]

Maybe I am misunderstanding but your flue is supposed to be mortared into the chimney. I have never heard of 1/2 inch clearance between the two.

Nope they are not supposed to be mortaer in if they are it can cause big problems

 

[bholler]

If the clay flue is completely mortared to the chimney (whole circumference of the flue) how is it supposed to be broken out...? Seems like you'd be taking the chimney down too

It can be done but it is a real pain in the ass

 

[NVHunter]

It can be done but it is a real pain in the ass

Yea that's why I'm opting to go straight to the class A next to the masonry chimney. If the flue was so poorly built then I can bet the chimney is not built properly and I'd rather not find out the hard way.

With a Class A I'll be able to clean it easier, it will be a 6" flue vs an oval with the liner, and it will be a straight shot up with no offsets / elbows like in the chimney....

All positives except for the initial cost.

 

[BrotherBart]

That bottom clean-out is priceless.

 

[NVHunter]

That bottom clean-out is priceless.

Yes that's a big positive too. I didn't care for stratling my chimney yesterday trying to shove that damn liner down. Not afraid of heights but the less I have to go up there the less likely I am to fall down. Haha

 

[Toomb]

Would it be worth trying a pulling cone ( i think that is what they are called) and having someone assist you by pulling/ guiding from below as tou feed from top?

 

[bholler]

if i was doing it i would probably open up the bottom and pull it up through with a hoist. I would break out the old liners as well

 

[NVHunter]

Would it be worth trying a pulling cone ( i think that is what they are called) and having someone assist you by pulling/ guiding from below as tou feed from top?

Yea that was being done as well... Didn't help at all...

if i was doing it i would probably open up the bottom and pull it up through with a hoist. I would break out the old liners as well

I think that would have been maybe possible but sounds like it would be just as pricy as a Class A with more repair to the wall after install. This flue is just too crazy to use and I'm not sure how it would have drafted after if I did get the liner in (2 offsets in liner, a 90 into house, then a pair of 45s down to the stove at 23 feet total at 4,800 feet of elevation)

Here's a drawing of the chimney system I made for the permit. I didn't include the fireplace and its flue in the drawing but it is on the left of the flue in the drawing

 

[ccmac]

Your flue will break up just fine if mortared in. Clay is much more fragile than the mortar and concrete block in your chimney. Do it with a little care and I would bet the rest of the chimney remains intact.

 

[bholler]

Your flue will break up just fine if mortared in. Clay is much more fragile than the mortar and concrete block in your chimney. Do it with a little care and I would bet the rest of the chimney remains intact.

it is not that simple at all if they are mortared in they will not just break out like normal. It they really are mortared in badly breakers don't work you need to use grinders and air chisels on rods

 

[NVHunter]

it is not that simple at all if they are mortared in they will not just break out like normal. It they really are mortared in badly breakers don't work you need to use grinders and air chisels on rods

Thank you bholler. Not that I'd try to do something like this on my own but if I had someone attempt it I think I'd be opening up a can of worms.....